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1990 Mustang LX Upgrade(restoration)/Engine Swap


Bloodember

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The starting point of my build is a 1990 Mustang LX hatchback with a 2.3L. I've had this since 2010 as my daily driver, I now have another car to drive so I can start my project. The car has no noticeable rust besides on the hood and left fender on the top, nothing big.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/8931839351_37a6b945af.jpg

CAM00280 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3682/8931837819_55907547a4.jpg

CAM00283 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/8931837279_a2378c0ca4.jpg

CAM00284 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8419/8931836519_c01c18c8b8.jpg

CAM00285 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

What I'll be doing to the car is a complete tear down to fix any rust or issues and an engine swap to a 351w. I'll be upgrading the suspension, brakes and wheels also.

 

I have written up a build list to start my project and have already starting buying some of the stuff as well.

 

Suspension, Rear End and Brakes

8.8 Rear End - I found one of these on craigslist, and it was even out of a 1990. I gutted it and had it media blasted and is in primer right now. I plan on coating it in Rust Bullet with a black top coat.

 

For the new components for the rear end I have purchased a FRPP 31 spline traction loc differential, 3.73 gears and the installation hardware with Royal Purple 75w90 oil and ford racing friction modifier. I also bought a new pinion flange. Still need to get a pinion snubber and upper control arm bushings, I'm going with Prothane bushing though through LMR.

 

Mosler 5 lug 31 spline axles with 94-04 flange. Purchased with seals, bearings, and 3" wheel studs.

 

FRPP Rear Differential cover with ARP bolts purchased, I also have an Eaton breather port plug for it as well.

 

Rear Control Arms: Yates Performance Cobra steel upper and lower control arms purchased.

 

K-Member: UPR Tubular Mild Steel

 

Coil Overs: UPR Maximum Rear coil overs kit for Strange shocks. Front coil overs will be UPR Pro coil over kit for strange struts. The struts will be Strange 10 way adjustable S6001EM.

 

A Arms: UPR Chrome Moly Tubular A arms.

 

Rack and Pinion: I'm thinking about going with a manual setup, the Flaming River 15:1 Manual Steering Rack. I've heard these are great and you have no issues steering except when not moving. Is this true? Will I have any issues? I'm told bump steer might be a problem so I have a Steeda bump steer kit for manual steering on the list.

 

I'll be also getting UPR Caster Camper plates for the front. I also already purchased upper and lower torque boxes from UPR.

 

Brakes: Thinking about going with Cobra brakes from a 1994-95. I also need to get some front spindles from a 94-95. If anyone has any? pm me. Also how good are manual brake compared to power? Not sure what I want to go with here. Your insight will be greatly appreciated.

 

Wheels: I know I want to go with 17's. What width and offset should I go with? The wheels I'm thinking of are Cobra R's or the FR500's in black.

 

Exterior and chassis

To stiffen the chassis I have purchased Competition Engineering subframe connectors.

 

As for the body I know I want a Cobra style rear wing, rear window louvers and the Trufider 1995 Cobra R hood w/ SVO scoop that is fully functional from cjponyparts.com. So I know I'll need hood pins, looking at the UPR black billet kit. Now as the body I'm thinking on a Saleen kit, just not sure yet.

 

I will be undercoating the underside of the car and the inside of the car with Rust Bullet and top coat. As for sound deadening thinking of using Lizard skin, if I go this route I'll coat the inside with their coating and sound proofing applications. In the engine bay I'm thinking of smoothing it. It'll also be coated with Rust Bullet and top coated.

 

Interior

For the interior I plan I changing it from Red/black to full black. Many of my parts will work, the ones that won't because they are broke or messed up to badly are the rear quarter areas and truck sections, need to find these. I also need to find some door panels also, don't want to paint those. If I find a good deal on the whole interior I'll buy it, instead of painting some of my red pieces. Carpet and headliner will be new parts though. I'm also planning on deleting the rear seats with a kit I found I like from foxresto.com. It's item number 31487001 if anyone is interested.

 

I also plan on moving the battery to the trunk area and installing a master disconnect switch, just in case. I've also purchase some UPR billet pedals in black.

 

Seats are another concern. My drivers seat is twisted for some reason. I'm thinking of getting some 94-04 seats and putting them in, I've heard they will fit right in. Is this true? If not what will need to be fabricated?

 

Engine

Now for the engine, a 351w, I already have a block out of a 95 F150, so it is a roller cam block. my HP goal is around 650hp and I'm thinking of stroking it to a 408. I have not bought any parts for this, its still in the planning stages and everyone's insight, comments, criticism is appreciated.

 

Heads: Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Track Heat 205. Thinking of using Edelbrock 9656 push rods, Scorpion Race Series rocker arms and the FRPP roller lifter installation kit (not sure if I need this).

 

Pistons: Trick Flow Forged Pistons for the heads above designed for .04 over. Not sure on these as of yet.

 

Piston rings: Mahle Performance for .04 over, item 4040MS.

 

Crankshaft: Ohio Crankshaft forged for a 408w. Not sure on the specs of this.

 

Connection Rods: BBC 6.2 in I-Beam Streat and Strip forged 4340.

 

Not sure on the above rotating assembly. I'm also looking at the DSS X5 forged 408w stroker rotating assembly, not sure on the pistons though. More on what I want to do later.

 

Camshaft: Not sure about this either since I'm turbo charging.

 

Intake: Trick Flow R-Series with 90 mm upper. Comes with lower.

 

Fuel Injectors: Trick Flow TFX 80# ev6.

 

Fuel Rail: Accel DFI extruded fuel rail kit. Comes with rails, crossover lines, and pressure regulator. Not sure on this, comments would be appreciated.

 

Distributor: MSD 8451 Pro-Billet Ready-To-Run EFI

 

Mass Air Meter: Abaco Fully adjustable 85mm

 

Timing Chain: Trick Flow 51478520

 

Harmonic Balancer: Not sure what I need here, I know the engine is a balance externally at 28 oz stock. I'm going to turbo charge so not sure what I need here.

 

Oil Pan: Summit Racing Package CMB-08-0058

 

Valve Covers: Trick Flow Tall valve covers with oil fill kit.

 

Oil Filter: Heard I should use the relocation kit for this, true?

 

Starter: FRPP 397-M-11000-B51

 

Alternator: SVE 130 Amp 3G Alternator kit from LMR.

 

Seals and Bearings: Sealed Power Competition Series

 

Bolts: ARP

 

Gaskets: Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal kit

 

Engine Management System: WMS Racing with Engine harness

 

Wideband O2: Not sure about this one, heard AEM ones aren't that great.

 

Fuel System: Glenns Performance 1000HP Sleeper fuel tank system. Everything needed up the the fuel rails.

 

Turbo: On 3 performance kit. Thinking of getting the 76MM ceramic ball bearing turbo for it though. Any thoughts?

 

Underdrive Pulleys: March Performance Power and Amp Kit

 

This is my build list. I know I'm probably missing some stuff. As for the rotating assembly, as I stated earlier, not sure what to do there, since I'm going turbo should I go with a 9.5 compression or higher or is that to high still?

 

Thanks for all your help in advance, I know I'm going to need it. I'll keep this thread updated with pictures and what I'm doing.

Edited by Bloodember
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I started the tear down this past weekend. I got the hood, bumper, fenders, doors and most of the interior out.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/8931818323_39971949e1.jpg

CAM00332 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8932430874_7443119e78.jpg

CAM00331 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/8931816537_3c0a124843.jpg

CAM00333 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/9003027174_a461a6751e.jpg

CAM00344 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9003025568_5f87c6b815.jpg

CAM00349 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8126/9003024656_87b9ed58f5.jpg

CAM00350 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

As you can see in the above photos there is some rust on the frame, nothing that a wire wheel won't fix (I hope). Also the bolt holding the seat belt in under the rear seat on the passenger side is stuck. I broke 2 T-50 torx sockets trying to get it out. Looks like I'll have to pull the rear wheel off and inner fender to get to it so I can heat it up with a torch.

 

I also found some rust holes, one was under the passenger seat at the outer rear bolt, the second spot was at the front by the a pillar on the drivers side.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3792/9003026720_1b30d70ea1.jpg

CAM00346 by Bloodember, on Flickr

This is the passenger seat spot.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/9003025452_99e441caa0.jpg

CAM00348 by Bloodember, on Flickr

Drivers side.

 

I also noticed it is rusted through around the front part of the passenger side as well.

 

Looks like new floors are needed. Now not sure what I want to do here. Latemodelrestoration.com (LMR) has a two piece floor pan kit for the driver and passenger side seat areas, they also have the whole dang floor from the back seats to the fire wall and is one piece. The back seat area is rust free as is the transmission tube. How hard would it be to take the two sections out and weld them in or the whole floor?

 

I'm also in need of new front inner fender splash guards as they are broke in areas and one is missing the whole back section. I noticed no one makes replacements, which is weird. So going to have to find some used ones.

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I'd like to keep it all Ford, plus I already have a 351w block. But, an LS1 does sound cool in a Mustang, so if I would go LS1 what would I have to do differently to make it work? I know a Kmember for an LS1 swap, but what about transmission and other parts? Edited by Bloodember
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ls powerplant will be stronger and cheaper. Build a jy 5.3 with rod bolts and a cam with some good valvetrain and let it eat.

 

I am not sure what your plans were as far as a trans but with boost I assume you were going with an aod or c4. Just do a 5.3 and a th400

 

I know I have built a turbo ls coupe on paper more times than I care to admit, including a donor car I know I could build a sub 10sec coupe for less than 11,000 complete

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ls powerplant will be stronger and cheaper. Build a jy 5.3 with rod bolts and a cam with some good valvetrain and let it eat.

 

I am not sure what your plans were as far as a trans but with boost I assume you were going with an aod or c4. Just do a 5.3 and a th400

 

I know I have built a turbo ls coupe on paper more times than I care to admit, including a donor car I know I could build a sub 10sec coupe for less than 11,000 complete

 

Thinking of going with the Tremec Magnum T-56 6 speed manual tranny. Not sure about the LS yet, like to stay ford, I will check into it though and make a build list and see what price comparison is, if its significant I might go LS.

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That 351 block is worth like $50. Any stroker kits, you are going to have to pay for machining, plus the kit. Listen to TurboNova, he knows what he is talking about.

 

 

I just wish the LS option was available before I did my 351 stuff. Too much to change now for it to work for me economically.

 

 

 

Read this:

 

http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/368190-My-first-LS-88-Mustang-GT-5-3-4L80E-S475

Edited by Ackbar00
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Just was reading over your list and I have a complete 03 13" disc brake front setup with spindles if you need it. Been just sitting above my office collecting dust and would be open for offers on it

 

After mocking up a LS single turbo system for the swapped fox cars, I think that would be a pretty slick setup. I was against that swap but after seeing them more and more and working with our customers car, I like that route

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Just was reading over your list and I have a complete 03 13" disc brake front setup with spindles if you need it. Been just sitting above my office collecting dust and would be open for offers on it

 

After mocking up a LS single turbo system for the swapped fox cars, I think that would be a pretty slick setup. I was against that swap but after seeing them more and more and working with our customers car, I like that route

 

Sell me the black car.....

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Worked on it some this weekend. Got the pesky bolt out, dash out and vacuumed the inside up. Started getting the engine ready to be pulled. See pics below for what i did. Hopefully get more progress done next weekend.

 

Here's some interior shots.

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5503/9064534880_a2ae34da09.jpg

CAM00365 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3762/9064535050_ee5df4a1f0.jpg

CAM00364 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3693/9062303983_b2baab6144.jpg

CAM00367 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9064534428_0d8b93fea3.jpg

CAM00366 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5464/9062301201_775f5694b8.jpg

CAM00374 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

Still need to get the rest of the dash area cleaned out. Hope to get that done next weekend. While I have it apart going to get a new heater core for it as well.

 

Engine bay pics.

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/9064532758_b269f04e17.jpg

CAM00371 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/9064532618_a78b28f4e9.jpg

CAM00372 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7421/9064531880_aae8aa2801.jpg

CAM00373 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/9062303475_6d7cbdb583.jpg

CAM00369 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

Still have quite a bit to do in the engine bay. Thinking about smoothing the engine bay. IT will be cleaned and painted black.

 

Next weekend I hope to get all the dash area pulled, engine bay cleared out and the engine ready to be pulled.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Didn't get much done two weeks ago, but this weekend I got the rest of the dash, heater assembly and most of the wiring taken out in the car. Just need to disconnect the clutch wire from the tranny so I can take that bracket out.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/9178718483_c1946974dc.jpg

CAM00382 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

I also got all the wiring, a/c, and fuel lines disconnected from the engine.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/9180932482_b652c5f8e9.jpg

CAM00383 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

I got the bumper off and the drive shaft out as well.

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/9178717175_d09e39c320.jpg

CAM00384 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3683/9180933646_29b33b373c.jpg

CAM00385 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

I'm hoping to take the engine out next weekend, just need to clean up the garage first so there is room to sit it.

 

The only wiring left in the car is for the tranny, which will be out when I take the tranny out with the engine. Don't feel like crawling under the car twice. The other two wires are the ones that goes along the passenger side, need to take the head liner out, I believe this wire goes to the overhead light. The last one is the drivers side one because it also hooks up to the gas tank electronics. Its out except for that, when I drop the tank I will disconnect it.

 

On a side not if anyone needs a 2.3L 4 Cylinder with 71435 miles on it, the engine and transmission (5 speed) will be for sale once I take it out, the computer and wiring harness will be for sale also.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got the Engine and transmission out this weekend.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/9288196627_62c5f84678.jpg

CAM00387 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/9288196165_497dfa97e4.jpg

CAM00388 by Bloodember, on Flickr

 

Now on to fixing the floor. But first have to clean the garage, it's a mess. Going to push the car out and sweep up the floor dry and other crap all of the floor and rearrange everything to give me more room.

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