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1992 Supra Build


Geeesammy

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if you want a pro efi plug kit to build your own harness, let me know. I have a spare sitting in storage. New as it came from pro-efi.

 

I have a ton of 2j/supra parts for sale, but none really look like they are suited for your build. 80mm turbo, hks v160 clutch, 6 speed rear end with kaaz diff, etc.

 

Goodluck with the build

 

Details on turbo?

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That turbo would be huge for me. Maybe if I ever put a 2j bottom end in It.

Another few things I've thought about doing

-Sumping the tank, would allow me to run a much bigger, single pump, which would save me the headache of modifying my hanger to fit 044's or something similar. The issue is finding someone locally that is willing to do this.

-Putting A/C back in it. I'm a manwhore for A/C and since I still run a mechanical fan cooling shouldn't be an issue. I may throw in a secondary fan on the opposite side of my fan blade, on the front side of the condenser to act as a "pusher" to help keep temps down. This is a pretty easy setup, all I would really need is a 1j/2j compressor with a 7M cap and either re-use my lines, or buy new lines. Since it will run on R134 opposed to R12 all new components aside from the evaporator I think would be a safe bet to replace.

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Another thing I'm definitely changing is the wheels. I've thought about doing a big and little setup on it, but I think on a car like this it would look a little funny. I've seen a few weld racing setups on them and it just doesn't flow in my eyes. I'm open to suggestions for these, I've thought about something similar to a Volk TE37, but a knock off. The real ones are insanely out of budget.

Ill post up pictures later on of my favorite setups on these cars.

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Wow guess I am used to turbo's for the RX7 (Mostly GT35 variants) and wow the GT47 sounds monstrous. Guess it would depend on a fun street car or a crazy high horsepower (Boost at 5K and up) kind of car. GL with the build.. Had one of these that was a NA (86.5) and it was a lot of fun w/o the additional HP. Edited by Second Gen
sp
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Wow guess I am used to turbo's for the RX7 (Mostly GT35 variants) and wow the GT47 sounds monstrous. Guess it would depend on a fun street car or a crazy high horsepower (Boost at 5K and up) kind of car. GL with the build.. Had one of these that was a NA (86.5) and it was a lot of fun w/o the additional HP.

I'm not using a GT47. Sticking with something between 60mm-67mm. GT47 stuff is built 2J territory. I have no intention of pulling this engine for 2 years. 1JZ's respond awesome to even a smaller single. The stock twins run out of their efficiency range at 14-16psi. Not only that but they like to explode since they are ceramic wheeled. A lot of guys back when 1jz swaps gained a lot of popularity would take the CT26 turbo's off of 7M engines and bump them up to a 50 or 60 trim. Nothing huge but that would give awesome response and cost nothing compared to a new turbo.

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One of the wheel options I like. XXR 530's in Chromium Black. I feel like this would offer a nice touch complimenting the White. Still gives a little flash, without going overboard.

I'll search for a picture of this on a Mk3. No guarantee's.

http://www.wheelplususa.com/images/wheel_image/medium/1330067500/xxr530_Ch_Black.jpg

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One of the wheel options I like. XXR 530's in Chromium Black. I feel like this would offer a nice touch complimenting the White. Still gives a little flash, without going overboard.

I'll search for a picture of this on a Mk3. No guarantee's.

http://www.wheelplususa.com/images/wheel_image/medium/1330067500/xxr530_Ch_Black.jpg

 

I have a set of those on my Fox for cruising. They're heavy but look cool.

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I have a set of those on my Fox for cruising. They're heavy but look cool.

 

It's already a heavy car, and although unsprung weight affects the car in a much higher ratio than the sprung weight, I'm not too worried about it.

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After talking with a fellow Supra owner today while pulling his 2JZ, I decided it would actually be quicker to pull the engine, and then remove the stock twins, than try to take them off in the car, this will make a lot of stuff I'm wanting to do easier, might do a few other things at the same time to ease my mind.
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if you want to go 2jz, I have a 2j N/A short block(minus the head) you can have mine for $200. It spins fine and the pistons are in good shape. I am thinking about possibly moving in a year, so I want to slowly start getting rid of extra stuff.
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if you want to go 2jz, I have a 2j N/A short block(minus the head) you can have mine for $200. It spins fine and the pistons are in good shape. I am thinking about possibly moving in a year, so I want to slowly start getting rid of extra stuff.

 

PM Sent

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  • 2 weeks later...
Finally got around to pulling the intake manifold off and getting the harness out. It put up a huge fight but finally came off. I also got around to removing the downpipe on the stock twins which proved to be fun, 10+ years of rust combined with a lot of heat up and cool down cycles provided a nice upper body workout. Also found out why my #3 plug always looked really weird compared to the others, the O-Ring was lopsided, and blocking part of the injector, I'm sure that made a big issue with the spray pattern, also found out my power steering pump is in much worse shape than I originally thought, as well as my valve stem seals. I planned on replacing all of those items, but if it hadnt broken in the first place I wouldn't even have known they were this bad. I could see oil sitting on top of my intake valves that were closed, and it wasnt just a drop or two on them. Ill get some pictures up. Also while I took my fuel system apart, the rubber return line from the regulator was dry rotting and cracked beyond any realm of being safe. I always smelled a hint of gas in the engine bay after it had been running but attributed it to possibly injectors leaking slightly after shut off, or it just running that rich all the time.
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  • 4 weeks later...

A little update, made a trip to Dayton to buy a twin scroll T4 manifold with a wastegate for dirt cheap, he thought it was eBay but it seems way too high of quality for ebay to me. Who knows. I didnt realize until I got home it had a bolt snapped off in one of the threaded holes on the flange, I've tried a few things to get it out but no luck yet. I also got my two Bosch 044's in the mail. One is going in the tank, the other inline near the rear axle. Running -06 or -08 line, haven't decided yet. Through my supplier it is the same per foot either way so I may go with -08. Also bought my turbo yesterday, should be here within a week or two. It has an undivided .81 T4 housing on it now, once I get it in my hands I will be buying a divided housing with an .84 A/R.

 

Also working out a parts trade with a buddy for a custom bracket for the new coils ill be running. It will look OE and save me having to rig something up. Ill need to make a junkyard trip to try and find the coils I want to run.

 

Hopefully next paycheck I can go ahead and buy my ProEFI or my remaining fuel system components. Ill post a few pictures, tapatalk doesn't upload them as well as far as quality goes.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/12/gajurupa.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/12/zy5ugety.jpg

Edited by Geeesammy
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Why not megasquirt?

 

After playing around with the tuning software I don't like the user interface. It was very hard for me to use. It may cost more but it will save me the time and headache of having to research all the steps needed to make the unit work on the car. ProEFI has a lot of info on it for JZ engines and I can get a good base map to get the clutch broken in on and run everything I want to with it.

 

In essence it's an "all in one" instead of having to buy this board and solder it into that one and then run a jumper wire between point x and point y. I can just build my harness and run my wires and be done with it. Not having to add on anything and no having to troubleshoot an ecu that hasn't been used a lot.

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After playing around with the tuning software I don't like the user interface. It was very hard for me to use. It may cost more but it will save me the time and headache of having to research all the steps needed to make the unit work on the car. ProEFI has a lot of info on it for JZ engines and I can get a good base map to get the clutch broken in on and run everything I want to with it.

 

In essence it's an "all in one" instead of having to buy this board and solder it into that one and then run a jumper wire between point x and point y. I can just build my harness and run my wires and be done with it. Not having to add on anything and no having to troubleshoot an ecu that hasn't been used a lot.

 

Have you thought about Lamda Authority? Small but good.

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