ItzaME Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Nice gsxr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrsplat Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 have you checked the lamp failure indicator box? it's a known failure point on later mk3's causing the issues you're describing. the solder joints break. They can be easily repaired or bypassed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Nice gsxr Thanks, it's begging to be fixed. Took fairing's off for minor repairs, left them off then the rectifier took a shit, haven't touched it since lol have you checked the lamp failure indicator box? it's a known failure point on later mk3's causing the issues you're describing. the solder joints break. They can be easily repaired or bypassed. Yes, I have 8 or 9 spares. My issue ended up being a fried integration relay within my relay box in the cabin. The PCB was pretty burnt, idk how it happen but whatever. I sourced all 1988 harness's, got them all put in a few weeks ago, the seller screwed me and left out the ignition switch, I finally got it last night from him and put it in, half of things worked at first, an hour or two of poking and probing with a test light and a few replaced fuses later the headlights, tail lights and corner lights were working. No turn signals. Today I went over after work and poked around some more, long story short got the turn signals working, a ground was somehow getting 12v to it and tried welding itself to the body. Fixed that and replaced about 60% of the fuses it popped and everything I can check works on the exterior. My gauge cluster wasn't in and none of my interior lighting was hooked up so couldn't check it but I presume it all won't work without a few hours of poking around. I'll need to source a correct year HVAC control unit and HVAC box since I used my 1992 stuff and just as luck would have it the 1988 uses 1 different connector and I don't feel like try to rig it up to have problems later and have to pull the dash. Good news is that shouldn't hold me back from anything really, the dash isn't needed for it to be wired up. Pretty minor compared to all the crap I've gone through so far. I've started making a list of what all I need to get done and what all is needed to be ordered so that should help me lots with time management as well as not chasing my tail and backtracking. May not run this year but hopefully I just keep plugging on without any more crazy stuff like the body harness to set me back months. I'm sure I've left some bits out like me getting shocked what seemed like 100 times on my old harness stuff but that isn't as entertaining as listening to me ramble once a month about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 So I've got a lot done lately. -Put all missing bolts and hardware on the front bumper for turn signals, grille, bumper supports. It was unreal how much was missing, I'm amazed the bumper was still on. -Aligned all the front end panels aside from headlights. Ran out of time and those take awhile to get perfect. -Tapped my intake manifold and thermostat housing for the GM sensors I'm switching too. For some reason Toyota used a closed element IAT and the Coolant temp sensor is junk. Also removed some bungs in the head for stock cooling of the turbos, etc. and I need to get my taps back from a friend to tap the holes and plug them. Debating running water lines to my wastegate. -Cleaned all valve cover, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and other misc. threads. Anything going back on is getting clean threads and a new bolt. Kind of overkill but I had 4 exhaust studs snap off in the head when I took off the stock twins, and another 2 when I removed my new ones. -Changed all my exhaust studs to shorter Tundra studs so my manifold can actually fit. -Measured my buckets and did all the math to switch to a shimless setup. Don't really want to spit a shim out at 8,000+ rpm and deal with that. -Painted some misc. stuff going in the bay and on the engine. Don't remember what exactly but just started cleaning and spraying. Random pics- Getting ready to measure for shimless stuff http://i.imgur.com/RsAcSXx.jpg Post- alignment http://i.imgur.com/oNdGNpT.jpg Compressor housing needs powdercoated again. Needed a 90* welded on it http://i.imgur.com/w3Z3SGk.jpg Waiting to get manifold on http://i.imgur.com/zkTTbG1.jpg Studs are a little shorter.... http://i.imgur.com/uv50IM8.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 I feel you pain on plugging and tapping things. The 1G had two oil feeds out of the head for the turbos with banjo fittings and coolant lines running everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 So got a friends hoist. Yes it is from the World War 1 era, yes it is sketchy as fuck, no I didn't die and fortunately I didn't lose any extremities. Mad JDM cheetah print snuggie served as a great paint saver. Yes that is daylight under one of the wheels, at one point it was roughly 6-8" off the ground. http://i.imgur.com/PZxE6Gv.jpg Engine/trans assembly in, risked it with the compressor housing off, figured if anything went wrong I'd need a lot of shit anyway and it would be a reason to buy a running C5Z. http://i.imgur.com/mQV9ZQe.jpg So bought a harness from a friend that needed some slight work, got it all fixed up and found out after the fact I put the engine in that he had the harness ran in a way that would not work with my setup. I made my own hole so the harness is not going over the downpipe like it would in a factory setting. As much as I hated doing this I only made it 1.5" which was as small as it could be. My last few connections I actually had to de-pin the wires from the connectors to get them to squeeze in there. http://i.imgur.com/Ddrt61h.jpg After most if not all of the harness was pulled through. Just enough daylight to fit a grommet on there. http://i.imgur.com/cjfMcZ7.jpg Next weekend I'm hoping to button up the fuel system and wiring if I find the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Album of the latest work. http://imgur.com/a/LGOQr Got the stock brake and fuel lines out, deleted ABS, wired in all needed relays for the ecu, modified fuel pump hanger for my new pump and went over all the suspension and drivetrain components. Also ran a new brake line for the rear since someone crossed the threads on a T fitting that I also had to replace. New master cylinder came in today and hopefully ill get the RBF 600 and wilwood adjustable proportioning valve in before I leave for vacation so i can bench bleed the master and get all the brakes hooked up and the big brakes installed Edited July 11, 2016 by Geeesammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Mothly update time Debated selling again since i desperately want money for school. Ended up being immature and irrational and decided to keep it and just get loans so I can afford a T56 magnum conversion this winter and get this thing running for fall drag day. I had hoblick powdercoat my compressor housing and valve covers, my bay looks immensely better and the colors really compliment each other. Today I am installing a wilwood adjustable proportioning/combination valve and mostly new brake lines as well as a master cylinder brace. Half done and taking a break for lunch. Some pics in the album below. Hopefully getting the remainder of the fuel system put together and leak test both systems this week once my brake parts come in. https://imgur.com/a/Kejs7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) Fuel system is basically done. Need to run 2 -8 from post filter to the fuel rail and then leak test it. https://imgur.com/a/clccB Edited August 16, 2016 by Geeesammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 GIT'R DUN, Samsonite! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Trying to get done for track day Album of latest work added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Please get this running before the season is over. I'm willing it to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 I have one suggestion for your brake lines, and that's bc you are mounting the prop valve to the frame, and the master cylinder is on the brake booster/firewall. I am currently replacing those hard lines because during hard braking my fire wall would flex and cause the booster/master cylinder to flex up and down, causing the brake line to get fatigued and one of them to finally get a tiny hole in it, which obviously stopped my brakes from working. I would suggest making the lines longer from the master to the prop valve and also bending a circle into the line to give it a bit of "flex section" so that you hopefully won't have the same issue I'm dealing with right now. Awesome build and can't wait to see it done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis Nice Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Looking great man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 I have one suggestion for your brake lines, and that's bc you are mounting the prop valve to the frame, and the master cylinder is on the brake booster/firewall. I am currently replacing those hard lines because during hard braking my fire wall would flex and cause the booster/master cylinder to flex up and down, causing the brake line to get fatigued and one of them to finally get a tiny hole in it, which obviously stopped my brakes from working. I would suggest making the lines longer from the master to the prop valve and also bending a circle into the line to give it a bit of "flex section" so that you hopefully won't have the same issue I'm dealing with right now. Awesome build and can't wait to see it done! I am actually going to order stainless braided lines with black jacketing to run from the master to prop. valve soon. I was looking at it after I did it and really didn't like the look of it and didn't feel comfortable with it. I may just end up taking it to a shop and letting them do it all over with better tooling once I run them, I need to remake my right front line with a stress loop built in. I may wait until after I tune it for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Got my frankenstein big brake setup on last weekend. Also got the downpipe on and have the clutch system sorted. Caliper to wheel clearance is close. I may get a small spacer to put on just for insurance. http://imgur.com/a/AwNco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Been too damn busy. Debating a partout for a 135i as a daily/toy and use some of the money to pay down debts. Stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted October 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2016 JK, not parting out anymore, back to my senses. Got soft brake hoses and other misc. things from JEEEEEEEEEEEEEEGS today and installed them. Also got some minor stuff done thanks to the help of a friend. Turbo feed, drain, clock are all done. Intake manifold is on and the fuel system is one AN fitting away from being done. Pics tomorrow...maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItzaME Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 In for picccccs. my buddy finished up his 2j swapped is300 and was dialed in at about ~450 whp and wow I couldn't believe how smooth it pulled when we went for a spin. I'll be ordering a swap pretty soon just to have for a project down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted October 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 http://imgur.com/a/yMbOF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 http://imgur.com/a/yMbOF WOW! Clean set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted October 17, 2016 Report Share Posted October 17, 2016 AN brake lines were the way to go. I did the same thing, looks good. Much easier to deal with if you ever do have an issue in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99StockGT Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Looking good under the hood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex L. Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Looking good, Grant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 No pics but quick update: -Making some moves this winter regarding a trans setup, I have an R154 now, don't want to ruin it so going to sell it in great condition. I'm about 75% set on going CD009 (350z/370z trans) with a twin disc setup. I can buy one new for what I can sell my used R154 for so it's a no brainer. 25% of me wants a T56 magnum but I don't plan on keeping the car ages and don't see making 1,000 wheel ever with this platform. Total cost to do a T56 right is near $6500 which is beyond what I'd like to spend. -Finally finished up basically all my wiring, need to make up my FMIC and then take it out to a fab shop and have the rest of my exhaust connected. Debating going straight pipe and being a dick, or staying with a good exhaust like I have now. -Going to ditch the mechanical fan, and go with a Taurus or other junkyard setup. Hoping this will help me rev quicker, I may end up just going with a huge single puller and fab up a shroud of my own and add in some cooling shrouds on the bottom to help pull air through, so I'll only need it at low vehicle speeds, if at all. I'll also likely run a PWM controller with the fan(s) to minimize amp spikes in conjunction with a cooler thermostat. -Brake system is solid now, finally holding pressure with the new hoses, I will need to throw on a flexible/soft hose to go from my prop valve to the L/F caliper since it is a tight bend to get to it and don't want to risk losing a brake line due to that. Lots more in the works, just the main points that I'm getting set up over the next month Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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