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Just another RX-7 Built-Coltboostin Style


coltboostin

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From the looks of the cinder block, I believe the RX7 is winning the jack stand race. ;)

 

Rx7's always winning the jackstand race...

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w392/uummm1/20140719_171426_zpscjasdgs0.jpg

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w392/uummm1/20140719_171527_zpsi8hrhhv2.jpg

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Do you ever keep a ledger on these builds?

 

Its hard with the DSMs since I had such a large pile of parts from previous part outs/trades and such...but I am with this one. The most expensive parts by far are the turbos. A big single would be cheaper, but I wanted to work with Chad an On3 for a build and try out what I feel could be a market-killing product.

 

It will probably ready for power pulls in the 5k investment range at this rate, 6k if I factor in the cost of parts I have trash picked (no joking lol) and take away money from parts sold off the car. I basically have everything needed now to make 800+whp on gas. I may alsy be looking to trade+cash my Ls1 for an Iron motor since LS1's sell for so much freakin money.

 

My dream would be a straight trade-Ls1 for Iron 6.2. I really think I can make 1100 whp on the stock rods, although my set up may come on to hard/early to push it that hard.

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Finding time to work on the car here and there. Got a killer deal on way too much clutch for the car-but for less than a monster stage one, I’ll grow into it. 

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_081110_560.jpg

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_082412_033.jpg http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140723_094234_203.jpg

 

And confirming what I already knew…

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_085732_477.jpg

 

 

 

I hope to get some header wrap/high temp VHT/oil line parts this week do I can start final assembly of the turbo system. I hope t have it on the ground again and under its own power no later than Aug 30th.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In the effort to save coin, I "fixed" the broken starter. Good to go. I will cover it with epoxy for extra insurance. ;)

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_101036_437.jpg

 

Picked up a drag pack for a great price. Daddy likey

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_091443_921.jpg

 

They are tube'd so they should be pretty stable at speed if I happen to accidentally have them on when on the street.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_091356_405.jpg

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Got the QM Slave set up figured out-

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140731_084350_317.jpg

 

And got the trans/axles/diff in. Trying to nail down what fluid I want to run for maximum high duration load protection. Leaning towards a 50/50 Redline MTL and light shockproof. I know ATf/lighter the better for T56 but years of blowing stuff up has shown me that super-light fluid only leads to quickly broken transmissions.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075252_947.jpg

 

Also did some work on my Ching Chong gates. I will post a review on these later. Hate to say it, they are the best I have seen out of them yet.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140805_242946_302.jpg

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Made some more progress.

 

Spray bomb'd the manifolds with BBQ paint. "Baked" them in the sun. Tested the finish by trying to scratch it off with a screw driver. To my surprise-it did not come off.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_123646_553.jpg

 

Showing the brace, and the best a 10 year old harbor freight welder will weld. :(

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_123814_516.jpg

 

And Wrapped. This stuff is 100 times easier than the old fiberglass wraps, and in my experience wears much better especially when exposed to the elements, like on a motorcycle.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_181327_498.jpg

 

Oil feed using the OE block off plate on the filter housing

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075459_147.jpg

Oil Drain-the EASY way! Just use the Oil Level sensor whole. No removing the oil pan, no welding, no BS. Yes, it is a little below oil level in the pan, but I have never had drain issues using this whole. (and really, the OEM DSM/Evo drain back is partially submerged as well. To each his own though. I always choose the path of least resistance.

 

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075407_185.jpg

http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_181233_161.jpg

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what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why?

 

For a couple reasons that'll I'll try to make quick and simple.

 

One, is to keep under hood temps down. The cooler the temps, the more your ecu can increase air/fuel without fear of detonation or power loss and the cooler your air intake, depending.

 

Not, it gets a bit more complicated. Second, by retaining heat, you retain energy. When retaining this heat energy and directing it by wrapping your exhaust system, the gases increase the "scavenging effect" and improve the performance of the intake and exhaust systems as a whole. The exhaust gases are therefore removed faster when it's hot. This also will theoretically improve the turbo's response since less energy is lost to the atmosphere and is thus pushed through the turbo. This is also why it's important especially on a N/A car, to have a proper header/exhaust manifold. Proper scavenging can have a dramatic affect on a N/A.

 

Hope that helps a bit. I definitely could've explained it a bit more but that should be enough to get you started or at least give you the gist.

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what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why?

 

They all covered it. On a turbo system, the more heat retained in the system the better the spool and in turn torque characteristics will be. We gained 1200 rpm (Im not kidding either) in spool in a rear mount system by warping it headers-back. Thats extreme example but you get the point. Also makes a HUGE difference in under hood temps.

 

Because he wants it to crack faster than it already will.

 

The hate is strong with this one. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

She lives!

 

 

First fire. Runs/sounds great. Took a while to get the clutch to work, but we are all square now. Still needs a good brake bleed before she is back on the ground. I will also be doing a full review of these AWESOME turbos shortly. IMO these are a game changer in terms of value per dollar spent.

 

I am obviously undecided on the inter cooler. I am torn between A2A and A2W I have build a few of both set ups, but never used an A2W on my personal car.

 

Opinions?

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She lives!

 

 

First fire. Runs/sounds great. Took a while to get the clutch to work, but we are all square now. Still needs a good brake bleed before she is back on the ground. I will also be doing a full review of these AWESOME turbos shortly. IMO these are a game changer in terms of value per dollar spent.

 

I am obviously undecided on the inter cooler. I am torn between A2A and A2W I have build a few of both set ups, but never used an A2W on my personal car.

 

Opinions?

 

I have a nice A2A Greddy 4" thick core off a supra if you are interested.

 

Personally I believe A2A on street cars. Plenty of power to be made with air to air coolers. You wont be pushing enough power with those manifolds to worry about going air to water.

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I have a nice A2A Greddy 4" thick core off a supra if you are interested.

 

Personally I believe A2A on street cars. Plenty of power to be made with air to air coolers. You wont be pushing enough power with those manifolds to worry about going air to water.

 

PM me details and a price.

 

Keep in mind those Ohio boys went 7's @ 200mph on truck manifolds. I'd say they are mankin power :dumb: IMO any reduction in intake temp will yield a benefit in power-especially on a FI car. The fact that you can get below ambient on a A2W is huge. That being said I am still leaning towards A2A for simplicity and repeatability’s sake.

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