ImUrOBGYN Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 From the looks of the cinder block, I believe the RX7 is winning the jack stand race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littleguy Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 This is such a cool build, can't wait to see it on the streets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 From the looks of the cinder block, I believe the RX7 is winning the jack stand race. Rx7's always winning the jackstand race... http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w392/uummm1/20140719_171426_zpscjasdgs0.jpg http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w392/uummm1/20140719_171527_zpsi8hrhhv2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImUrOBGYN Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Rx7's always winning the jackstand race... http://RX7.jpg Watch it or I'll bring in the Supra. They're notorious for their top-end, especially when perched on jack stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99StockGT Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Do you ever keep a ledger on these builds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Do you ever keep a ledger on these builds? Its hard with the DSMs since I had such a large pile of parts from previous part outs/trades and such...but I am with this one. The most expensive parts by far are the turbos. A big single would be cheaper, but I wanted to work with Chad an On3 for a build and try out what I feel could be a market-killing product. It will probably ready for power pulls in the 5k investment range at this rate, 6k if I factor in the cost of parts I have trash picked (no joking lol) and take away money from parts sold off the car. I basically have everything needed now to make 800+whp on gas. I may alsy be looking to trade+cash my Ls1 for an Iron motor since LS1's sell for so much freakin money. My dream would be a straight trade-Ls1 for Iron 6.2. I really think I can make 1100 whp on the stock rods, although my set up may come on to hard/early to push it that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS69 Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 Nice, what's up with the v? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nice, what's up with the v? She twerkin. :lolguy: Nothign major, just refinished the wheels. Had some good peel on 2 of them-common for the miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Finding time to work on the car here and there. Got a killer deal on way too much clutch for the car-but for less than a monster stage one, I’ll grow into it. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_081110_560.jpg http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_082412_033.jpg http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140723_094234_203.jpg And confirming what I already knew… http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140722_085732_477.jpg I hope to get some header wrap/high temp VHT/oil line parts this week do I can start final assembly of the turbo system. I hope t have it on the ground again and under its own power no later than Aug 30th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Also pretty happy with the way the manifolds turned out. Had a tig lined up-but could not make it over to the shop so I went to town with the harbor freight Mig. Added bracing just to be safe. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140719_125427_589.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 In the effort to save coin, I "fixed" the broken starter. Good to go. I will cover it with epoxy for extra insurance. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_101036_437.jpg Picked up a drag pack for a great price. Daddy likey http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_091443_921.jpg They are tube'd so they should be pretty stable at speed if I happen to accidentally have them on when on the street. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140729_091356_405.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Got the QM Slave set up figured out- http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140731_084350_317.jpg And got the trans/axles/diff in. Trying to nail down what fluid I want to run for maximum high duration load protection. Leaning towards a 50/50 Redline MTL and light shockproof. I know ATf/lighter the better for T56 but years of blowing stuff up has shown me that super-light fluid only leads to quickly broken transmissions. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075252_947.jpg Also did some work on my Ching Chong gates. I will post a review on these later. Hate to say it, they are the best I have seen out of them yet. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140805_242946_302.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 Made some more progress. Spray bomb'd the manifolds with BBQ paint. "Baked" them in the sun. Tested the finish by trying to scratch it off with a screw driver. To my surprise-it did not come off. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_123646_553.jpg Showing the brace, and the best a 10 year old harbor freight welder will weld. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_123814_516.jpg And Wrapped. This stuff is 100 times easier than the old fiberglass wraps, and in my experience wears much better especially when exposed to the elements, like on a motorcycle. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_181327_498.jpg Oil feed using the OE block off plate on the filter housing http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075459_147.jpg Oil Drain-the EASY way! Just use the Oil Level sensor whole. No removing the oil pan, no welding, no BS. Yes, it is a little below oil level in the pan, but I have never had drain issues using this whole. (and really, the OEM DSM/Evo drain back is partially submerged as well. To each his own though. I always choose the path of least resistance. http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140806_075407_185.jpg http://i1003.photobucket.com/albums/af154/coltboostin/IMG_20140810_181233_161.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_buster Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linn1647545492 Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why? To hide the welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImUrOBGYN Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why? For a couple reasons that'll I'll try to make quick and simple. One, is to keep under hood temps down. The cooler the temps, the more your ecu can increase air/fuel without fear of detonation or power loss and the cooler your air intake, depending. Not, it gets a bit more complicated. Second, by retaining heat, you retain energy. When retaining this heat energy and directing it by wrapping your exhaust system, the gases increase the "scavenging effect" and improve the performance of the intake and exhaust systems as a whole. The exhaust gases are therefore removed faster when it's hot. This also will theoretically improve the turbo's response since less energy is lost to the atmosphere and is thus pushed through the turbo. This is also why it's important especially on a N/A car, to have a proper header/exhaust manifold. Proper scavenging can have a dramatic affect on a N/A. Hope that helps a bit. I definitely could've explained it a bit more but that should be enough to get you started or at least give you the gist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ImUrOBGYN Posted August 12, 2014 Report Share Posted August 12, 2014 To hide the welds bwhahaha In this case, that's a definite perk, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSXRAntwon Posted August 13, 2014 Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why? Because he wants it to crack faster than it already will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted August 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2014 what is the purpose of the wrap? My understanding is to contain heat, but why? They all covered it. On a turbo system, the more heat retained in the system the better the spool and in turn torque characteristics will be. We gained 1200 rpm (Im not kidding either) in spool in a rear mount system by warping it headers-back. Thats extreme example but you get the point. Also makes a HUGE difference in under hood temps. Because he wants it to crack faster than it already will. The hate is strong with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted September 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2014 She lives! First fire. Runs/sounds great. Took a while to get the clutch to work, but we are all square now. Still needs a good brake bleed before she is back on the ground. I will also be doing a full review of these AWESOME turbos shortly. IMO these are a game changer in terms of value per dollar spent. I am obviously undecided on the inter cooler. I am torn between A2A and A2W I have build a few of both set ups, but never used an A2W on my personal car. Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miller11386 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 She lives! First fire. Runs/sounds great. Took a while to get the clutch to work, but we are all square now. Still needs a good brake bleed before she is back on the ground. I will also be doing a full review of these AWESOME turbos shortly. IMO these are a game changer in terms of value per dollar spent. I am obviously undecided on the inter cooler. I am torn between A2A and A2W I have build a few of both set ups, but never used an A2W on my personal car. Opinions? I have a nice A2A Greddy 4" thick core off a supra if you are interested. Personally I believe A2A on street cars. Plenty of power to be made with air to air coolers. You wont be pushing enough power with those manifolds to worry about going air to water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a nice A2A Greddy 4" thick core off a supra if you are interested. Personally I believe A2A on street cars. Plenty of power to be made with air to air coolers. You wont be pushing enough power with those manifolds to worry about going air to water. PM me details and a price. Keep in mind those Ohio boys went 7's @ 200mph on truck manifolds. I'd say they are mankin power :dumb: IMO any reduction in intake temp will yield a benefit in power-especially on a FI car. The fact that you can get below ambient on a A2W is huge. That being said I am still leaning towards A2A for simplicity and repeatability’s sake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallard Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 If you do A2A you could spry the intercooler to combat heat soak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 If you do A2A you could spry the intercooler to combat heat soak. Anything I'd spray the IC with would be better served being spraying into my motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Anything I'd spray the IC with would be better served being spraying into my motor. You would spray CO2 into the engine?? :gabe: Seriously though, CO2 is cheap enough to spray on the intercooler to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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