Zx2guy19 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 The other night, my wife and I took a trip up to West Mansfield to grab the king bedroom set from TonyG. On our way up on route 33 near Marysville, my brake light came on. I thought nothing of it, and thought I was low on brake fluid and I'd grab some at a nearby gas station. When I got off the exit, I applied the brakes and they went basically all the way to the floor and made a severe grinding noise- almost as if the ABS was on. Well, it was. When I got home I did some research and found out that literally 100's of people have had this happen on 04-06 Titan's, Armadas and QX56's. Apparently, Nissan refuses to pay for the repair, yet they are aware of it. People have actually died from this because the brakes fail. http://www.topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/1154-nissan-armada-a-titan-truck-infinity-qx56-class-action-lawsuit/ This site outlines basically everything, and many people are reporting their issues daily. It sounds as if there was a class action lawsuit in 2011, but can't find the outcome, and I believe it is ongoing. Bottom line: I don't feel comfortable selling this truck to someone with the knowledge that the brakes could potentially fail. And naturally, I do not feel comfortable driving this thing either. To top it off, the 'repair' is $1200 at Nissan- with basically 90+% of people reporting that repair does nothing. What would people suggest I do? I may drive a few miles to Lowe's and back, but as far as I'm concerned, I'm done with this truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis Nice Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 You could give it to me with a clear conscious. I'll pay the $1200 repair. Suck man. That's a nice truck too. In good condition. Wish ya the best of luck. As for what to do: I'd foot the bill if you're gonna keep it since it's a paperweight if you don't or I'd trade it in and make sure the place you trade it is aware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 The only problem is that the $1200 repair people are reporting is not fixing the problem. As in, they are fixing the problem and really don't have a real solution for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otis Nice Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Trade in time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I would make that shit someone elses problem, or have an insurance fire. I'm sure if it were mine I could find a way to fix it, but I'd be seriously modding the braking system and would likely make nobody else want it. It must have something to do with the ABS? Idk anything about it, but redoing the lines to eliminate that would make it function. Just my initial thoughts. On second thought, fuck that truck, get it out of your life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDHG940 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Time to get trade it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staywide8 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I'll be truthful, in the 3 years i've written service i've not heard of this issue on a titan/armada. Id be more than happy to help get the vehicle fixed, and cheaper than that. Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I'm with Cordell, get rid of it. Trade it in, or sell it to someone with full disclosure. It can be fixed, I would just lose the ABS all together and install a proportioning valve. I would only do that though if I kept the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copperhead Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 If the brakes fail and you drive into a tree the insurance will cover it, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Time to get trade it in ^^ this. Let the dealer taking it worry about it. Sucks that you'll likely lose out on this deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I think people are overreacting here. It's a 10+ year old truck that has been fine up until this 'issue' and you say it's not repairable? I call hogwash. You have gone all internet warrior and believed EVERYTHING you read on the internet without letting a competent mechanic inspect and diagnose the issue. And OH NO, HUNDREDS of people are complaining of the same issue online......compared to the what MILLION titan's on the road today? And out of those HUNDREDS of people, how many do you actually think have ANY CLUE what they are talking about? Have you ever had a friend/family member/coworker describe something to you and once you realize what it was thought they made no sense/were telling you something different? I know I have, because people interpret and express things differently so you never know what someone is talking about until you see it for yourself. My .02 before you waste a bunch of money getting rid of an unknown issue is to have it looked at and get it inspected and determine what your issue is before just trading the car off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I'll be truthful, in the 3 years i've written service i've not heard of this issue on a titan/armada. Id be more than happy to help get the vehicle fixed, and cheaper than that. Let me know. I'd be interested in talking to you about it, let me know man. I am really surprised you haven't written this, but it makes my feel a bit better knowing that maybe it isn't that common. Regardless, it happened, so now I feel 'infected', haha. I'm with Cordell, get rid of it. Trade it in, or sell it to someone with full disclosure. It can be fixed, I would just lose the ABS all together and install a proportioning valve. I would only do that though if I kept the truck. I am talking to Steve-O about doing this, I'm just not sure on something like that. I removed the ABS from my 240 (and Hicas), but I redid all the lines and such, and it was fucking miserable. If the brakes fail and you drive into a tree the insurance will cover it, right? Yes, and I've thought about a strategic tree already, haha Ouch I think people are overreacting here. It's a 10+ year old truck that has been fine up until this 'issue' and you say it's not repairable? I call hogwash. You have gone all internet warrior and believed EVERYTHING you read on the internet without letting a competent mechanic inspect and diagnose the issue. And OH NO, HUNDREDS of people are complaining of the same issue online......compared to the what MILLION titan's on the road today? And out of those HUNDREDS of people, how many do you actually think have ANY CLUE what they are talking about? Have you ever had a friend/family member/coworker describe something to you and once you realize what it was thought they made no sense/were telling you something different? I know I have, because people interpret and express things differently so you never know what someone is talking about until you see it for yourself. My .02 before you waste a bunch of money getting rid of an unknown issue is to have it looked at and get it inspected and determine what your issue is before just trading the car off. I don't think I'm overreacting; my brakes literally failed getting off a freeway exit. That will get you a bit riled up. Understand- this is only on 04-06, and while mine is an 04, it still books at close to $9500. I owe 3k, but I don't want to get ass raped on this. I need a truck, and if I sell it for 4k and walk away, I still have to get another truck. Yes, my safety comes first, but still, it doesn't change my bank account magically. The problem is real- I'm not making up the symptoms or the severity of it. Regardless if it happened to 10/1,000,000 or 100,000+ people, it happened to me, so it's damn real. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staywide8 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Let me know. I run the service drive at Buckeye Nissan, so we're close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 I've driven the truck approximately 50 miles since this happened last, and no sign of it. That's what scares me, it's totally unpredictable and intermittent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinner Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Quick search shows it is likely a brake booster issue. Replacing it seems to fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted August 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Update for anyone who is having trouble sleeping at night due to this...ha: It hasn't happened since this one isolated incident, but the "TDC" and "Anti Slip" light stay on along with the "Brake" light. When this incident occurred, only the brake light was on. I am still nervous as fuck to drive it, but took it on a 50 mile round trip yesterday to pick up my Pelotonia bike and it did fine. May just drive it until the wheels fall off as I only owe $2900 on it and pray for the best. Quick search shows it is likely a brake booster issue. Replacing it seems to fix the problem. It's 100% an electrical issue from what I have read. I'd love for it to be the brake booster, but I don't see that kicking on ABS out of no where. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrs.cos Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Update for anyone who is having trouble sleeping at night due to this...ha: It hasn't happened since this one isolated incident, but the "TDC" and "Anti Slip" light stay on along with the "Brake" light. When this incident occurred, only the brake light was on. I am still nervous as fuck to drive it, but took it on a 50 mile round trip yesterday to pick up my Pelotonia bike and it did fine. May just drive it until the wheels fall off as I only owe $2900 on it and pray for the best. It's 100% an electrical issue from what I have read. I'd love for it to be the brake booster, but I don't see that kicking on ABS out of no where. Thoughts? Look at it this way the brake boosters only cost like what 70-80 bucks and put it in. I think it would be a much cheaper alternative to try it then to completely ruled out without at least trying it- and just assume it's electrical which undoubtedly is going to cost you tons more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Probably a sensor, probably a wheel speed sensor issue (or harness sending the signal to the ABS/TDC ecu). Before the ABS/TDC was able to detect it was getting a bad signal, it was using that signal as a real signal. So say you are traveling at 60mph, and it thinks a wheel, or all wheels are at 0kph, it will cut the brakes completely. In this case, the fail safe detection should happen quickly enough that it doesn't cause a huge issue. This is why we do, or should do, extensive FEMA/FTA testing, but as we all know, not all systems or cars are created equal. The good thing is, if the ABS/TDC light is solid on, it's detected them problem and the system shouldn't intervene now. The other good thing is, there is a code in the system for whatever sensor the system is getting a bogus signal from. Unfortunately since it's not the FI ecu, you can't just hook up a generic code reader to it. You will need someone with a maker specific capable (ABS) code reader. Someone with an expensive Snapon/etc, or a dealer will easily be able to pull up the code. Baring that, one of the first things I would check is looking in the wheel wells to see if there is an obvious disconnected connector or damaged harness for the wheel speed sensors. Being down in the wheel well, they are more likely to get damaged over time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 I have no idea how the booster would cause that system to fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted August 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 Probably a sensor, probably a wheel speed sensor issue (or harness sending the signal to the ABS/TDC ecu). Before the ABS/TDC was able to detect it was getting a bad signal, it was using that signal as a real signal. So say you are traveling at 60mph, and it thinks a wheel, or all wheels are at 0kph, it will cut the brakes completely. In this case, the fail safe detection should happen quickly enough that it doesn't cause a huge issue. This is why we do, or should do, extensive FEMA/FTA testing, but as we all know, not all systems or cars are created equal. The good thing is, if the ABS/TDC light is solid on, it's detected them problem and the system shouldn't intervene now. The other good thing is, there is a code in the system for whatever sensor the system is getting a bogus signal from. Unfortunately since it's not the FI ecu, you can't just hook up a generic code reader to it. You will need someone with a maker specific capable (ABS) code reader. Someone with an expensive Snapon/etc, or a dealer will easily be able to pull up the code. Baring that, one of the first things I would check is looking in the wheel wells to see if there is an obvious disconnected connector or damaged harness for the wheel speed sensors. Being down in the wheel well, they are more likely to get damaged over time. I will see if I can locate someone with that type of scanner...it's just very tense driving this thing. It's a lot of vehicle to stop with ABS on dry pavement. Thanks for the advice man. I have no idea how the booster would cause that system to fault. I am 100% sure it isn't the brake booster. A brake booster certainly wouldn't cause an entire brake system to think the ABS should be on. It has to be electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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