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Poor mustang :(


Ryan218

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It looks like a multi-mode failure. The origin is near the top of the axle shaft in the third picture. Faint lines point to the failure origin. These faint lines are indicative of fatigue mode and the smoother fracture surface on the 1/3 outer radius of the axle shaft seems to be all fatigue.

 

The rough or pitted-looking area in the middle is caused by brittle fracture. The small spot of rust in the middle may be caused by flash rusting once it's exposed to the air/moisture. The rest didn't rust because, I suspect, gear oil covered the area almost immediately after failure.

 

The sequence is is initiated at the origin; there was probably a surface imperfection (a nick, a gouge, or any other crack-like feature caused during a manufacturing/assembly process). This creates a stress concentration area which caused fatigue to set in. After numerous cycling of acceleration and deceleration, the crack propagated within area of the smoother surface ring. Once the area was large enough, the last failure mode was brittle fracture which happened all at once. The remaining area was simply overstressed and aggravated by the sharp crack tips surrounding it.

 

This is a design of a semi-floating axle. In a full-floating axle, such axle shaft failure will not cause loss of control as the hub is retained by the axle housing/tube.

 

http://forums.clubrsx.com/images/smilies/inoutugh.gif

 

Dude...we need to get you a jerb.

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I'd get an attoney and send suit to Ford. That shit should NOT HAPPEN unless your making 1500whp and holshotting the fucker on 33's

 

I'd be livid.

 

I am. More sad and in the dumps now then anything. Wanted a new 5.0 car since I heard there were being the 5.0 back. Took a lot of time and money to get one. At this point I'd rather them total the car. More I look the more I find. Body shop is really busy so gonna be a week or two before they even get it on a lift and torn apart to see how bad it really is.

 

Love to go at ford with this but I know talking to the. Now would just make me pissed.

 

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ryan218/Mobile%20Uploads/image-24.jpg

 

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ryan218/Mobile%20Uploads/image-25.jpg

 

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/ryan218/Mobile%20Uploads/image-26.jpg

 

Trunk pan on passenger side above the rail is also bulged up.

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wow the wheelhouse on that thing is fucked. I see the buckles in the quarters, thanks to the "magic markers" that body shops love to use. How bad is the floor? Can it pulled and straightened or are they putting a rear floor pan in it? FYI, at least out here, if you clearly see buckles in the pan right above the rail, the car likely needs a rail.

 

Such a bummer about the accident. Give Ford a verbal lashing for this one.

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If they don't total it, I'd for sure cut the loss and sell that thing. See this and knowing some of the other issues Mustangs have had, I'm really bummed to say I'd likely not buy one. I was really happy with my Co. Car Fusion up until the $2k Tranny fail and that it was one of three Fords on my team that had the same issue.

 

All this has provided me a 180* turn from my initial like. Won't be buying another one for a while.

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wow the wheelhouse on that thing is fucked. I see the buckles in the quarters, thanks to the "magic markers" that body shops love to use. How bad is the floor? Can it pulled and straightened or are they putting a rear floor pan in it? FYI, at least out here, if you clearly see buckles in the pan right above the rail, the car likely needs a rail.

 

Such a bummer about the accident. Give Ford a verbal lashing for this one.

 

Trunk pan isn't to bad but you can feel the bludge in it by running your hand over it. Who knows what the bumper supports look like.

 

If image it could be pulled but I'd fight for replacment. Same thing with wheel house. I wouldn't want that straighten. I'd want that replace which i think would involve remove the outer 1/4 to do?

 

If they don't total it, I'd for sure cut the loss and sell that thing. See this and knowing some of the other issues Mustangs have had, I'm really bummed to say I'd likely not buy one. I was really happy with my Co. Car Fusion up until the $2k Tranny fail and that it was one of three Fords on my team that had the same issue.

 

All this has provided me a 180* turn from my initial like. Won't be buying another one for a while.

 

Trust me. In with you on this one. This was my one shot at a new car. I doubt I'll buy another if they total it. Sadly. Ford is really pissing me off.

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<-happy trouble-free owner for 6k miles. Knock on wood

 

Should check you axles for the hell of it.

 

If they don't total it out ill probaly end up parting the car out. Have no desire to own a wrecked car I will end up paying 30k for.

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Should check you axles for the hell of it.

 

If they don't total it out ill probaly end up parting the car out. Have no desire to own a wrecked car I will end up paying 30k for.

 

 

 

 

http://forums.clubrsx.com/images/smilies/inoutugh.gif

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:barf:

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To me it looks like an axle that snapped from hitting a curb. Are you sure something else didn't break first causing you to put it into the curb? (Here's another example http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-v8-technical-discussions/680444-broken-axle.html)

 

You bought the car used correct? Wonder if it was curbed pretty hard by the previous owner?

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Doubt it. Car was in perfect shape when I got it. Had 8,000 miles on it when I bought it. Has 10,400 on it now. And I'm positive axle snapped. Car dipped. Car hopped. Then hand of god smacked car into curb. Spun around then into a gaurd rail
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To me it looks like an axle that snapped from hitting a curb. Are you sure something else didn't break first causing you to put it into the curb? (Here's another example http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-v8-technical-discussions/680444-broken-axle.html)

 

You bought the car used correct? Wonder if it was curbed pretty hard by the previous owner?

 

Doubt it. Car was in perfect shape when I got it. Had 8,000 miles on it when I bought it. Has 10,400 on it now. And I'm positive axle snapped. Car dipped. Car hopped. Then hand of god smacked car into curb. Spun around then into a gaurd rail

 

Given Toms analysis of the axle, I can see the two being possible events

 

  1. Poorly manufactured axle broke and caused all of the resulting damage
  2. Axle was not the initial cause, but poor manufacturing led to further damage

 

Obviously its something that's going to require more analysis to be sure.

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The thread in the Mustang Forums shows a picture of fatigue cracking already manifested in the axle shaft; check out the thinner (compared to the "fatigue ring" in the third picture in this thread), incomplete, darker-colored outer ring in the fracture surface. It was a fracture waiting to happen.

 

Smacking a wheel on the curb doesn't always mean breaking an axle shaft; wheel and suspension arms are weaker and they usually absorb a large portion of the impact loading.

 

One way to check for cracking is to pull the shaft and inspect it with a non-destructive method utilizing magnetic particle inspection commercially available under the brand Magnaflux. In this case, the fatigue crack is started on the surface, creating a perfect telltale for its presence. This non-destructive inspection may be rendered useless in an unused axle shaft as the fatigue cracking does not exist yet.

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Wow, that sucks. That car is considered to have Frame Damage now by NAAA standards. If the insurance won't total it, make sure they reimburse you for diminished value because that thing is going to tank it you try to trade it in later down the road.

 

I've been lucky with mine so far. Hopefully if the axles dont snap on slicks, they wont snap at all

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Wow, that sucks. That car is considered to have Frame Damage now by NAAA standards. If the insurance won't total it, make sure they reimburse you for diminished value because that thing is going to tank it you try to trade it in later down the road.

 

I've been lucky with mine so far. Hopefully if the axles dont snap on slicks, they wont snap at all

 

Yeah it does :(

 

I've called and talked to ford. Said I'll be reviving a letter within 15 days. What the hell is this 1994 again?

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It looks like a multi-mode failure. The origin is near the top of the axle shaft in the third picture. Faint lines point to the failure origin. These faint lines are indicative of fatigue mode and the smoother fracture surface on the 1/3 outer radius of the axle shaft seems to be all fatigue.

 

The rough or pitted-looking area in the middle is caused by brittle fracture. The small spot of rust in the middle may be caused by flash rusting once it's exposed to the air/moisture. The rest didn't rust because, I suspect, gear oil covered the area almost immediately after failure.

 

The sequence is is initiated at the origin; there was probably a surface imperfection (a nick, a gouge, or any other crack-like feature caused during a manufacturing/assembly process). This creates a stress concentration area which caused fatigue to set in. After numerous cycling of acceleration and deceleration, the crack propagated within area of the smoother surface ring. Once the area was large enough, the last failure mode was brittle fracture which happened all at once. The remaining area was simply overstressed and aggravated by the sharp crack tips surrounding it.

 

This is a design of a semi-floating axle. In a full-floating axle, such axle shaft failure will not cause loss of control as the hub is retained by the axle housing/tube.

 

The thread in the Mustang Forums shows a picture of fatigue cracking already manifested in the axle shaft; check out the thinner (compared to the "fatigue ring" in the third picture in this thread), incomplete, darker-colored outer ring in the fracture surface. It was a fracture waiting to happen.

 

Smacking a wheel on the curb doesn't always mean breaking an axle shaft; wheel and suspension arms are weaker and they usually absorb a large portion of the impact loading.

 

One way to check for cracking is to pull the shaft and inspect it with a non-destructive method utilizing magnetic particle inspection commercially available under the brand Magnaflux. In this case, the fatigue crack is started on the surface, creating a perfect telltale for its presence. This non-destructive inspection may be rendered useless in an unused axle shaft as the fatigue cracking does not exist yet.

 

You'll likely be called to testify. :)

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