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Home-built carport project


zeitgeist57

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He was limited to 400 sq/ft without the permits being much tougher.

 

+1.

 

https://www.municode.com/library/oh/upper_arlington/codes/code_of_ordinances?nodeId=PT11UNDEOR_ART7DEGU_S7.17RECO

 

§ 7.17 - RESIDENTIAL CONSERVATION.

(A)

Purpose and intent: Residential investment and infill redevelopment is encouraged to maintain and expand the property values in Upper Arlington. In the design of new single-family homes, major additions that exceed fifty percent (50%) of the total square footage, building footprint, or livable area of the existing structure, and for detached garages over four hundred (400) square feet in area, the following guidelines shall be considered:

 

BLAH BLAH BLAH $ $ $ $ $ $ $

 

$$ $ $ $ $ BLA-BLAH BLAHHH BLAHHHH

 

$ KA-CHING $

 

:gabe:

 

 

*Yes, even a carport is treated as a seperate building in UA. In this case, a "detached garage".

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  • 4 weeks later...
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So....quasi-success?

 

After paying $60 for application, I received an "approved with addenda" letter and the opportunity to pay another $176 for 3 different types of building-related reviews. I can start building, but I need to satisfy two additional requirements:

1) my plans didn't outline how the supports wouldn't be anchored into the driveway with concrete footers (they would be). I indicated I would take pictures to send to the code person before setting concrete.

2) the roof has to drain via 4" gutters to an existing downspout, then into the storm system. Problem is where the carport is going to be from a grade standpoint, there wont be a downspout to tie into. I'm going to have to dig and lay aggregate for a drywell. I don't mind doing this, but why is this a requirement since I'm building the carport over an existing asphalt driveway? Isn't rain runoff already going wherever it's going? Is a 360sqft carport metal roof really adding to a runoff problem? The other funny response I got was "If I dig the drywell, fill it with aggregate and then cover it with topsoil as specified, how will you know there's a proper drywell underground since it will be covered?" The guy coudn't answer. :lol:

 

Anyway...happy to be moving forward. Onto ordering carport next!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dropped order for carport with Kurt @ Absolute Steel. Total is $1994 shipped to my door, 50% down to start the manufacturing process. Roof will be painted steel: "Hickory Moss" on the top, white underside. Should be delivered in a month.

 

Have a ton of family stuff going on through the weekend but will focus on digging tubes for "ground mounting" the steel pilings when they arrive in the next week or so.

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  • 2 months later...

Carport is at Estes lot in Columbus, for final delivery to mah house. Unfortunately, it's palleted and weighs 1500lbs. Absolute Steel didn't accomodate residential delivery with a Lift-back truck... :ugh:

 

If Estes has to charge me extra for a lift-back delivery, is there anything I can do to get it off the truck myself? I can't think of any way to move 1500lbs off a truck...

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Carport is at Estes lot in Columbus, for final delivery to mah house. Unfortunately, it's palleted and weighs 1500lbs. Absolute Steel didn't accomodate residential delivery with a Lift-back truck... :ugh:

 

If Estes has to charge me extra for a lift-back delivery, is there anything I can do to get it off the truck myself? I can't think of any way to move 1500lbs off a truck...

 

 

 

Engine hoist and some big ass straps?

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Good news! Absolute Steel said that while the kit is metal-strapped to a palette and is 11' long, it's 35 pieces with no one piece being more than 40lbs. I'm going to have friends help me just pull each piece off the truck. Shouldn't be a problem now!
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  • 4 weeks later...

Alright, let's get on with it...

KR6b4LOl.jpg

Ignore the Eldorado...a buddy is stripping the Northstar V8/trans out for a Fiero swap. Also, green BBall hoop is going bye-bye since I got the mobile-base BBall hoop on the right of the pic for the keeds...

 

Time to break out the kids' sidewalk chalk and a HF tape measure. :lol:

CmAoVyvl.jpg

 

Used Absolute Steel's blueprints. Triangulated corners with a hypotenuse calculator...I'm within 1/2" an inch at every corner! Posts line up nearly perfectly.

WAsahool.jpg

 

 

GOOD NEWS! The Lincoln door comes close to the middle column, but doesn't hit it. That would SUCK...

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Damn, Lincoln...youse a big bish. 20' carport and you barely fit :lol:

RbouQ4wl.jpg

 

Break up the asphalt...tomorrow will be the one-man post-hole auger to make the holes!

ODCrk9dl.jpg

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e8nh1oUl.jpg

How's THAT for a thick asphalt driveway??? This thing is not easy to chisel through.

 

Ftbdioxl.jpg

Note the large rocks just below the braced column...the auger I rented was worthless because it would just hang on these boulders:lol: only way I know to do it is spud bar and leverage...

 

vi43IBwl.jpg

Progress...it's slow, but it's something.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Electric cement mixer, from my friend out in Etna.

 

1200lbs of concrete mix to go! An already low Cleetus was made even lower thanks to 20 60lb bags. #thanxmenards

 

I probably should have offered to help you with the concrete, but my mind tells me the bike is safer than Cleetus full of concrete.

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I met two of UA's building inspectors. Despite all the holes being deep enough, I admittedly didn't widen the footer columns to manufacturer-spec 18". Some were more than enough, but 2-3 of the 6 holes were constrained by roots or rocks from me making it wide enough.

 

They failed me. BUT...they said if I can get the holes widened, they will come out for free to final inspect.

 

My shoulders are burning from being up late last night with a spud bar and post-hole digger :lol: THE HOLES ARE WIDE ENOUGH NOW...

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I met two of UA's building inspectors. Despite all the holes being deep enough, I admittedly didn't widen the footer columns to manufacturer-spec 18". Some were more than enough, but 2-3 of the 6 holes were constrained by roots or rocks from me making it wide enough.

 

They failed me. BUT...they said if I can get the holes widened, they will come out for free to final inspect.

 

My shoulders are burning from being up late last night with a spud bar and post-hole digger :lol: THE HOLES ARE WIDE ENOUGH NOW...

 

You should see the structure being built across the street from my parents, big ass two car garage.

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My shoulders are burning from being up late last night with a spud bar and post-hole digger :lol: THE HOLES ARE WIDE ENOUGH NOW...

 

If only you might maybe had known someone who had connections to equipment to do that for no charge...

 

You won't get the answer you want if you don't ask the right people the right questions Clay. :)

 

I'll go take a look. Brown house two spots in from Grace?

 

Is "Grace" an old lady or...?

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  • 2 weeks later...

LATE AUGUST

 

After online shopping, I settled on Menard's for concrete. By far the best price for bags: 60lb bag for $2.22. "All-Star"...guess who makes it? Quickrete. Same stuff as the expensive bags. :p

I needed to mix it myself because my work/family schedule wouldn't really permit me to take a whole bag of wet, pre-mixed concrete as I was doing this myself; I wanted to flexibility of doing it when I could. Plus, my post holes ended up being somewhat deeper/wider than anticipated so I really wasn't sure how much I would need in one order.

 

J3nFIDfl.jpg

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In addition, Cleetus would bottom out at 20 bags. With rain in the forecast, I did 4 runs to Menard's for concrete bags...usually around 14 bags each time, bouncing on bumpstops the whole way home. :D I had one day where it was raining with bags in the back of Cleetus; you have to move quickly to avoid them turning to worthless cinderblocks!

 

ECWJMzkl.jpg

 

Cement mixer. NOM NOM NOM. Only really able to mix one bag of 60lbs concrete mix at a time, so I'd mix a bag, dump wet concrete in my wheelbarrow, and do another. Each wheelbarrow load would be 120lbs concrete/water mix, poured into each post hole until filled.

 

I used 70 bags of concrete mix. 4,200lbs of concrete.

 

LABOR DAY WEEKEND

 

lu3hTstl.jpg

 

First cross beam up!

 

So...each one of the cross-braces are 2 9'6" C-channel steel beams, with one slid inside the other. I pulled them apart until overall length was 18', then used 24 1" Tek-screws in the middle of each joint to fix the final beam length. Each beam uses 8 Tek-screws on each side to affix it to the columns.

 

YES, they are very heavy.

 

x5euF1Vl.jpg

 

You can see the brace I made from some leftover 2x4"s to support one side of the beam while I used a stepladder to get the other side up, supported on my shoulders while I used a hammer-drill to drill in tek-screws.

 

The orange ratchet straps were used to bring the tops of the poles in enough to screw in the 18' beam. 36" in concrete and 8' tall, I had no more than 1-1.5" of deflection. WELL WITHIN CLAY'S TOLERANCES. :lol:

 

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Three! Three beams in!! AH! AH! AH! AH! [/thecount]

 

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Down goes the B-ball hoop. It'll be in the way of parking Cleetus next to carport, and the backboard gets in the way of the roof anyway.

57HTbWGl.jpg

 

Roof panels: corrugated steel, 36" wide by 10'6" long. overlap each other, using butyl rubber strip to seal gaps. Affixed to cross braces from above with moar Tek-screws. This first line is 2 panels end-to-end. Will be 12 total panels (2 panels long, 6 panels wide) to make up the roof.

 

eCnAHTDl.jpg

 

Moar panels.

 

Wu7XPopl.jpg

 

Last night was a beautiful night. Made me appreciate working outside, and thinking about how nice we have it while Hurricane Irma is barrelling towards Florida. :nono:

Edited by zeitgeist57
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Nice work. Yeah that thing is begging for those wood strips for the sides....going to keep all the crap from blowing in too. Wonder if there is some sort of long aluminum pieces you could put between wooden slats...kind of like a truck bed. Would look $$$$weet
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Nice work. Yeah that thing is begging for those wood strips for the sides....going to keep all the crap from blowing in too. Wonder if there is some sort of long aluminum pieces you could put between wooden slats...kind of like a truck bed. Would look $$$$weet
Before I started in the elevator trade, I Did a custom wood paneling setup for a high rise condo building downtown using a similar system. (Mid century modern look) I actually bought aluminum material that was meant to hold mirror panels for gyms, etc.. much heavier han wood, so it worked perfectly. I could probably dig up the supplier.

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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Thanks a lot, guys. I appreciate the feedback.

 

- I don't do these things just to save money (though I can't imagine how much a crew would charge to pour a concrete pad, install carport), but to control the process as much as I can. It's engineered to be DIY, so just a few process points and it was relatively simple; just very time-consuming and definitely a workout on my body...and my truck!

 

- Any feedback on where I can get barn wood, or "mid-century modern" inspired siding options for cheap would be great, like Shaun's suggestion for aluminum slats/trim. Not in a rush to do that, but it would add a classy touch to the finished product.

 

Roofing panels are done! Need to clean up the mud, leftover rocks, and power-wash the driveway for finished pics. I'm also thinking about some LED lighting options.

 

Lastly, it's worth mentioning that the money I saved by doing this myself, I'm putting towards a professional resurface of the asphalt driveway. Most people use Golden Bear Blacktop, but I'd be happy to have a friend-of-CR do it...

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