Oil weight

[BBQdDude]

20132 nisssan 6 cyl 370z NA motor

 

So I was talking to some on line friends over at the forum for my car. I was going through my MINOR build parts lists. The subject came to oil weight. Nissan says 5w30. However most run 10w30. Now bear in mind these are warm weather driven only for us. Also most throw an external oil cooler on as I will be doing also.

 

Based on the above would you run 10w30????

[Cordell]

From what little I know about oil, 5w30 and 10w30 have basically the same viscosity at operating temp. The 10w wouldn't flow as well on startup. It sounds stupid to me to run 10w30 when it's the same at operating temp and cause more wear on a cold startup.

 

I beleive you should check out bobtheoilguy.com

[RyM3rC]

From what little I know about oil, 5w30 and 10w30 have basically the same viscosity at operating temp. The 10w wouldn't flow as well on startup. It sounds stupid to me to run 10w30 when it's the same at operating temp and cause more wear on a cold startup.

 

I beleive you should check out bobtheoilguy.com

 

+1

 

The subject came to oil weight. Nissan says 5w30. However most run 10w30

 

Yeah, that's the dumbest thing I've heard today.

 

Don't ever run a 10w30 if a 5w30 is specced, unless it's literally running out of the motor and you want to keep it running out slightly slower at cold temperatures.

 

I recommend you cease contact with these turds or insist they educate themselves on how automotive oiling systems function before they give some bullshit advise and some poor uninformed owner hurts his motor. Bearings are cheap, but replacing them is a pain.

Edited December 23, 2016 by RyM3rC
sorry cordell, I wasn't calling you dumb

[Geeesammy]

I'd run the Nissan oil that is specifically designed for that engine. It's expensive but worthwhile in my eyes.

[cdk 4219]

Ah the oil debate,must install exactly what the manufacturer recommends, or the crankshaft will fall out! The actual difference between 5w30 and 10w30 is minimal, and in weather above 30 degrees will have nominal effect on wear. Different brands of the same viscosity will overlap those two viscosities, and depending on additive wear durability and driving conditions , will add to viscosity differences.

I would be more concerned about the quality of the oil than the one step up or down in viscosity. Now going from a 5w 30 to a 15w 40 may not be be the best idea. These thinner oils were designed with fuel mileage in mind, and some are too thin for my liking as well .

[POS VETT]

I would run 0W-30 instead in the winter. If viscosity was a concern at operating temperature range, bump the second number, something akin to 5W-40. VQ37VHR runs a higher oil temperature range but it's never a concern in my street-driven car, the higher range is actually nice in terms of getting rid of moisture.

[nurkvinny]

I run 20w-50 in everything. Except my trucks... straight 90 weight.

[gillbot]

Yeah, that's the dumbest thing I've heard today.

 

Don't ever run a 10w30 if a 5w30 is specced, unless it's literally running out of the motor and you want to keep it running out slightly slower at cold temperatures.

 

I recommend you cease contact with these turds or insist they educate themselves on how automotive oiling systems function before they give some bullshit advise and some poor uninformed owner hurts his motor. Bearings are cheap, but replacing them is a pain.

 

:lolguy:

 

I've got to laugh at this piece of advice and say Cordell pretty much gave sound advice. You on the other hand should exit stage left.

Ah the oil debate,must install exactly what the manufacturer recommends, or the crankshaft will fall out! The actual difference between 5w30 and 10w30 is minimal, and in weather above 30 degrees will have nominal effect on wear. Different brands of the same viscosity will overlap those two viscosities, and depending on additive wear durability and driving conditions , will add to viscosity differences.

I would be more concerned about the quality of the oil than the one step up or down in viscosity. Now going from a 5w 30 to a 15w 40 may not be be the best idea. These thinner oils were designed with fuel mileage in mind, and some are too thin for my liking as well .

This ^

[Richard Cranium]

I sat in on a lecture a while back about oil. The presentation was by 2 mechanical engineers with Valvoline. A lot of what they said went directly over my head, but I did learn that the guys designing these systems know a whole lot more about how they work than I do. There is way more to know about oil than I ever will. I don't see the advantage with going against manufacturer recommendations. I will agree though that not all oil is the same. Look for the industry seal on the back of the bottle. A lot of house brands do not have the seal and therefore do not meet the minimum requirements set forth by the automakers.

 

Now, once you modify the system, all bets are off. But for a stock motor, I'm going to assume I'm not smarter than the guys who designed the damn thing.

[cruizin01]

watched this the other day. pretty decent basic info.

 

[Smokey]

Ah the oil debate,must install exactly what the manufacturer recommends, or the crankshaft will fall out! The actual difference between 5w30 and 10w30 is minimal, and in weather above 30 degrees will have nominal effect on wear. Different brands of the same viscosity will overlap those two viscosities, and depending on additive wear durability and driving conditions , will add to viscosity differences.

I would be more concerned about the quality of the oil than the one step up or down in viscosity. Now going from a 5w 30 to a 15w 40 may not be be the best idea. These thinner oils were designed with fuel mileage in mind, and some are too thin for my liking as well .

 

I would run 0W-30 instead in the winter. If viscosity was a concern at operating temperature range, bump the second number, something akin to 5W-40. VQ37VHR runs a higher oil temperature range but it's never a concern in my street-driven car, the higher range is actually nice in terms of getting rid of moisture.

 

These 2 gentlemen are pointing you in the right direction. Spend more of your time, effort, and money finding a good quality oil made from good group 3 or 4 base stocks in the factory viscosity. Run it, send it to Blackstone for analysis, and then potential really change from there based on their feedback.

[RyM3rC]

:lolguy:

 

You on the other hand should exit stage left.

 

This ^

 

It's a small difference between 5w30 and 10w30 of the same oil type, but you have nothing to gain and lubrication to lose.

 

I grabbed the msds for castrol syntec, as it's widely available and cheap- 5w30 and 10w30 only have an 11% difference in viscosity at 40C, so not huge. Difference is less at operating temp. But if you want to give up some sub-operating temp lubrication for no reason, be my guest.

 

In general running what manufacturer recommends is... recommended. For engine-specific discussion you'd have to find some VQ forums.

 

Tell me I'm wrong and teach me something.

 

ref msds http://www.flagshiphawaii.com/msds/Alphabetical%20by%20Manufacturer/Castrol_Edge_5W50_Full_synthetic.pdf

[BBQdDude]

Thank you all for the input. I will stand by my thought of 5W30. Just wanted a warm fuzzy/confirmation.

[RyM3rC]

Thank you all for the input. I will stand by my thought of 5W30. Just wanted a warm fuzzy/confirmation.

 

Try both and run a UOA.

 

If it were my VQ I'd be running a 5w40

 

:ninja: :gabe: :masturboy:

[gillbot]

It's a small difference between 5w30 and 10w30 of the same oil type, but you have nothing to gain and lubrication to lose.

 

I grabbed the msds for castrol syntec, as it's widely available and cheap- 5w30 and 10w30 only have an 11% difference in viscosity at 40C, so not huge. Difference is less at operating temp. But if you want to give up some sub-operating temp lubrication for no reason, be my guest.

 

In general running what manufacturer recommends is... recommended. For engine-specific discussion you'd have to find some VQ forums.

 

Tell me I'm wrong and teach me something.

 

ref msds http://www.flagshiphawaii.com/msds/Alphabetical%20by%20Manufacturer/Castrol_Edge_5W50_Full_synthetic.pdf

 

There's a lot more out there than the info on the msds. Rather than try to shit on a long standing member that advised they do more research, you should give good advice rather than be a basement troll.

[cdk 4219]

I sat in on a lecture a while back about oil. The presentation was by 2 mechanical engineers with Valvoline. A lot of what they said went directly over my head, but I did learn that the guys designing these systems know a whole lot more about how they work than I do. There is way more to know about oil than I ever will. I don't see the advantage with going against manufacturer recommendations. I will agree though that not all oil is the same. Look for the industry seal on the back of the bottle. A lot of house brands do not have the seal and therefore do not meet the minimum requirements set forth by the automakers.

 

Now, once you modify the system, all bets are off. But for a stock motor, I'm going to assume I'm not smarter than the guys who designed the damn thing.

 

Manufacturers, most of the time, aren't driven by what could be the best for the particular application. Many of the thin oils today have been designed for government mandated fuel mileage stipulations. Not that these lubricants aren't better than oils of yesteryear, which they in most instances are, but are designed with new engines in mind.

 

It is always recommended to lubricate with recommended oils, but much like snake oil salesmen of the past, most oil representatives won't really give concrete evidence that going outside the box, or recommendations, will lessen the life of that particular machine. Porsche people obsess over this, and most of those cars didn't have the first oil change until the recommended Porsche 10k miles, but still will argue over 5w or 0w oil.

 

As said before, jumping 2 or 3 oil weights, may be detrimental, but I also know many people who have used 15w40 rotella in their fleet lq4 vortecs, starting from first oil change, lasting well over 250,000 miles still running well. These engines call for a 5w 30 , and I personally have done that and didn't like 80 plus pounds of oil pressure at cold 2500rpm, so wouldn't recommend it.

 

This is the no lead valve seat wear, r134 in r12 systems, high octane gives you better fuel mileage, and nameless others. Fear that other products will be detrimental will lead Mercedes owners to pay $20 for a quart of ATF, Porsche owners, $40 for a gallon of antifreeze, and people who drive their leaded fuel 1972 camaro get lead additive for fear of ruining it.

 

Who is to say that that Nissan engine won't actually last longer with 10w30? Is there evidence that it won't?

[Geeesammy]

This isn't hard

 

Call the dealer and pay $12-ish a quart for the oil that was designed for the engine. Im not trolling. Nissan stocks a specific oil for that and the newer Maxima's.

[coltboostin]

This isn't hard

 

Call the dealer and pay $12-ish a quart for the oil that was designed for the engine. Im not trolling. Nissan stocks a specific oil for that and the newer Maxima's.

 

Nissan does not manufacture oil. So, someone else has to be making it.

 

 

Do you think they really sell some snake oil that is miles ahead of whats on the shelf anywhere else? If they do, let me know because I have never heard of this.

[Geeesammy]

Nissan does not manufacture oil. So, someone else has to be making it.

 

 

Do you think they really sell some snake oil that is miles ahead of whats on the shelf anywhere else? If they do, let me know because I have never heard of this.

 

I know they don't make it. On3 doesn't make the turbos you use, but you still say On3, its a similar concept called private label, wild concept right?

 

Its not snake oil, it's Ester Oil. I was a Nissan certified tech, those engines when they came in got the specialty oil. Call the dealer nearest you, it's not some hoax.

 

Realistically any Ester Oil will do. Read the owners manual, i believe it lists what weights to use during varying temperature ranges and vehicle uses. If I owned a 3.5 or 3.7 calling for that oil thats all I would be using. Just like if I owned an M3 all I would use is the 5-40 Castrol or whatever they call for and would use ar the dealer.