Wease Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Well color that a first, lol. Ha! Your car is in better shape than mine. I have a pile of stuff I need to fix this Spring / Summer: Throw out bearing is making a lot of noise Might as well change the leaking rear main seal while I'm in there Passenger seat is broke, I need someone to weld a plate on it Dash lights don't work again, hopefully just the light switch Tires are dry rotted and shot Brakes are really bad I haven't driven it much in the last two years and the list above is me paying for that. But again, as you said, it's a 30+ year old car. It still starts right up and moves around when I need it to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Ha! Your car is in better shape than mine. I have a pile of stuff I need to fix this Spring / Summer: Throw out bearing is making a lot of noise Might as well change the leaking rear main seal while I'm in there Passenger seat is broke, I need someone to weld a plate on it Dash lights don't work again, hopefully just the light switch Tires are dry rotted and shot Brakes are really bad I haven't driven it much in the last two years and the list above is me paying for that. But again, as you said, it's a 30+ year old car. It still starts right up and moves around when I need it to... I'm doing a bunch of this too. Just not part of the engine build. Made some good progress this weekend. Got the block all cleaned up and the cam changed out. Almost ready for the timing set, found a previously broken-off timing cover bolt. Thanks to the monkey who left it in there... now I understand why there was so much RTV on the old cover. That has to come out. Cleaned the shit out of the block. I used brown Roloc's but made sure to keep things covered, very clean, minded my order of operations to keep only the minimum holes open (removing lifters were the last step after all the cleaning) and I spent an insane amount of time vacuuming the hell out of the block and lifter valley with my small shopvac and detail set. I figure, if any of the shit did manage to get in there, it's a 100k block that I drive 2k miles a year so what the hell. If it gets eaten up I'll just do a stroker and call it a day. Interestingly, Ford's QA process in the 80's was pretty shitty. The block surface was pitted and not in nice shape seemingly from the factory. Based on this, I've decided I'm not comfortable with an MLS gasket so I'm gonna swap out to the FelPro 9333 composites people seem to like. One side done: Post-cleaning, cam and lifters out: F303 boomstick Cleaned and ready. I taped the engine up for the time being. Next steps will be to get that fucking timing bolt out, then get the timing set in and degree the cam. Then clearance checks, and it'll be heads and valvetrain time. Still a metric assload of stuff left to do, but over the hump now. Gonna try and get the motor mounts, sway bars, and new power/ground wires in this week. Then I should be in a good place for the rest of the block work on Saturday if my wife will let me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Beard Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Looking good sir! aside from the cover bolt, I am glad it went smoothly for the tear down. Can't wait to see further progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Why did you redo the engine IN the car? Is the clutch/trans good enough? Just surprised if you're unsure of the mechanical history, why not pull the engine to ensure main seals are good, pan gasket, clutch/throwout bearing, etc... Although I'm realizing you've driven it, so maybe you're already more comfy with its mechanical condition behind the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ackbar00 Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Prolly a good idea to change motor mounts since you are that far down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Why did you redo the engine IN the car? Is the clutch/trans good enough? Just surprised if you're unsure of the mechanical history, why not pull the engine to ensure main seals are good, pan gasket, clutch/throwout bearing, etc... Although I'm realizing you've driven it, so maybe you're already more comfy with its mechanical condition behind the engine. Two reasons -- 1) I don't have a lot of room to work, and since I 2) am very confident in the condition of the engine, no reason to mess with the rest of it until it's time. Prolly a good idea to change motor mounts since you are that far down. I have a box of Prothane mounts ready to go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMeanGreen Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Don't ask him about the rear main seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I throw no stones, given the glass garage I live in myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Don't ask him about the rear main seal Actually, I am 90% certain it's the oil pan bolt and the lower intake gasket. Prolly a good idea to change motor mounts since you are that far down. Here you go. Snuck out and tossed these in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wease Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Why did you redo the engine IN the car? Is the clutch/trans good enough? Also: Have you seen Chris? He can fit in the engine bay WITH the engine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Also: Have you seen Chris? He can fit in the engine bay WITH the engine... I've put on about 20lbs, but I can still fit in there. Actually the thought did cross my mind when I was installing the motor mounts yesterday. What a pain in the ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 Also I decided to use the 340lph pump, but picked up a 3/8" upgraded hard line kit and pump retainer from LMR last night. Figured, why throw away $100 on a 255lph when I know the lines are 30 years old and prolly need replaced anyway. SOMEBODY STOP ME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 No new work done yet, but I did realize when I change out the fuel lines I'm gonna have to drop the driveshaft... http://media.beam.usnews.com/1e/65/3b8d44854013a685d6bc32f0fd62/150217-oldermansurprised-stock.jpg It needs to stop fucking snowing and being cold so I stop e-building this damn thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTA09 Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 No new work done yet, but I did realize when I change out the fuel lines I'm gonna have to drop the driveshaft... http://media.beam.usnews.com/1e/65/3b8d44854013a685d6bc32f0fd62/150217-oldermansurprised-stock.jpg It needs to stop fucking snowing and being cold so I stop e-building this damn thing.Looks like ebuilding is costing you alot of money Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J326AZ using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted March 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Looks like ebuilding is costing you alot of money "A fool and his money are soon parted." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Making steady progress. Nothing major completed yet, and not a lot that's picture worthy yet, but getting there. Got the fuel tank down, driveshaft out, sway bars removed, the fender liners out (CAREFULLY since they're not easy to find and $$$), and prolly the largest body of work necessitating removing all that other shit: the factory fuel and vapor lines removed. In Ford's 80's wisdom, they were both bolted and riveted in, and as much as I love working on cars, I really fucking hate drilling rivets. Assholes. Since I have welded in subframe connectors and the convertible has extra bracing in the front the lines run through, I made the decision to cut the lines at the subframe connector to ease getting them out. I ordered tube to AN fittings from Earl's for the new lines so I can cut them there as well, rather than bend and beat the fuck out of them trying to get them in one piece around the connectors and bracing. I don't feel like wasting hours and fucking up my pretty new lines when I can cut them and slide them right in and all I have to do is de-burr and then flare one of the lines. New engine feed line is 3/8 (stock is 5/16), and since I'm there I picked up a new SS return line. The vapor line and charcoal can are permanently removed, I'll vent the tank in the rear. Also noticed the pinion snubber was beat to bits, so I picked up a Maximum Motorsports snubber, oh and since I was already ordering from them I picked up a solid steering shaft and solid steering rack bushings I was already on the fence about, furthering my project a wee bit more. :gabe: I have some clean up to do below before I get the new lines in. A little painting and need to cut out some old exhaust hangers some redneck welded in. I also believe in doing shit right, so I ordered the proper fuel pump wiring crimp terminals so I can wire the Aeromotive fuel pump wiring kit that goes with my 340lph pump directly to the factory hanger terminals with no splicing into the old harness, and single-plug weather pack connectors so I can wire in the trigger wire and have the fuel tank harness still be removable from the car. Looking forward to getting the lines in and finishing this under car work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 Finally some progress today. Got the R&R of the underbody done, including removing welded in exhaust hangers. Rear steel braided brake line installed, rear poly pinion snubber installed, brake lines re-installed back onto the body (without rivets), and a Prothane trans mount mostly installed -- ran out of time to get it fully lined up and the bolts in. Need to finish that, then get the fuel lines in. Goal is to have everything up to the engine done this weekend. Let's see if family cooperates... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Near 80 tomorrow, good workin weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Near 80 tomorrow, good workin weather! I didn't do much paying work today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wease Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 We need an update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Beard Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 ^^^^^^Agreed^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted July 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 Small progress the last couple weeks. Nothing really picture worthy. Of course, work and children have kept me from getting this done faster than I want... may have bit off more than I should have for this stage of life, but I don't care, ha. Fuel system w/ 340lph pump and wiring kit, and 3/8 SS lines is in. Just need to get the tank mounted back up when I have a second pair of hands. Poly trans mount and alu driveshaft are in, transmission flushed and filled. Stainless steel brake lines all on, brakes bled and flushed, ready to go! Maximum Motorsports steering shaft is in, I need to finish re-hanging the steering rack -- prolly will do that today. I did a bunch of corrosion cleanup in the engine bay, etc. and that's all painted and ready to go now. Pretty much the only things left before I start on the engine is getting the steering rack re-mounted and that broken timing cover bolt removed. Once I'm done with those, I can get the engine built. Hopefully get some good progress done this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 Finally making good progress. Steering is back together, broken bolt removed, front of the engine is back on, and the block is studded and heads are on. Ready to set up the valvetrain, either tonight or tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Beard Posted July 18, 2018 Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 That is by far the best photo yet! Gotta love a set of polished trick flow heads, dems sexy :leghump: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted July 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2018 That is by far the best photo yet! Gotta love a set of polished trick flow heads, dems sexy :leghump: The blue rockers are next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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