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Break in period...discuss


snot

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So, if I remember right break in period is a myth....

The 300 was rode normal, not too hard but not super slow or low rpms.

I have 57 miles on the new bike now. Trying to stay under 4k rpms is not easy ( 45 is max speed). It is recommend to stay at 4k until 150miles then 5k until 300 and 6k until 500. 

Thoughts?

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Don't know if it's a myth or not. Some get by just fine ignoring the manufacturers recommendations and some have troubles getting engine replacements because of not following the recommendations.

My new bike had some limitations, under 7K for 200 miles, under 9K for four hundred miles, under 11K for four hundred miles, no full throttle for the first 600 miles. I adhered to those limits except for the no full throttle recommendation. This allowed me to get comfortable with the new bike and discover it's capabilities progressively. I certainly found new limits in handling and setup for corner entry during each advancement up the RPM scale. 

I'm not saying that I'm right following the recommendations but I'm certainly not wrong.

This has been a shit show among the BMW folks.

 

 

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If you aren't going to 100% adhere to break-in, at least refrain from extended runs at the same RPM. (highway)  

I'm one to tend toward the break-in, but with a few high-revs mixed in on occasion. My advice is purely anecdotal. 

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Bad parts/assembly happen. From a self preservation standpoint it makes sense to ease into it rather than smash everything with full force and a bonus gives you less chance of having to deal with lawyers.

My one new bike (2-stroke) was not broken in as my dad's friend who's pick-up we used to get it took off on it saying they break them in at the factory.

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Jen, as most have said already, break-in guidelines are more for protection of the manufacturer than the consumer.  I agree that it makes sense to follow them if only to avoid nasty surprises should you encounter an issue with the engine on your new bike.

I think what you are remembering about break-in rules dates to many years ago (back when I was a young rider 😕) when the machining and clearance specs were not as well controlled and consistent as they are now.  The mantra was to run the engine at less than WOT and especially, to vary the RPM for the first few 100s of miles.  Theory is (was?) that under closed throttle/deceleration conditions, the engine created a high vacuum in the combustion chamber which helped "draw" oil up the cylinder walls, lubricating the piston(s) and upper cylinder(s) and thus, ensuring break-in without damaging the bores.  The more precise machining in modern engines coupled with metallurgical advances and the fact that many manufacturers use a Nikasil coating for the bores has kind of made the old rules unnecessary.  The other point is that modern motorcycles all have an ECU that likely records events like throttle plate position, over-revs, pre-detonation, coolant and exhaust temperatures, and a few other data points that could be used against you in a warranty claim.

Likelihood is that you could probably "run it like you stole it" and nothing bad would happen, but this way, you get to enjoy the anticipation of that first WFO blast to redline when you hit the magic number!

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On 5/12/2024 at 9:09 PM, snot said:

So, if I remember right break in period is a myth....

The 300 was rode normal, not too hard but not super slow or low rpms.

I have 57 miles on the new bike now. Trying to stay under 4k rpms is not easy ( 45 is max speed). It is recommend to stay at 4k until 150miles then 5k until 300 and 6k until 500. 

Thoughts?

When I bought the Ninja 400, I broke it in exactly by the manual.  It took self-control, which I typically lack.  It ran perfectly, didn't burn a drop of oil, etc.

That said, I think the motor breaks in (rings, etc) within the first 50-100 miles.  If I broke it in harder, I'd bet it also would have ran perfectly.

Some new motorcycles (Ducati) are limited to a low power mode that the dealer will disable at the first service. 

 

 

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