enenen Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 I got new brake pads, and have read that I need to remove the residue from the old pads off the rotors. I read that I should glass bead them, but I only have access to a sandblaster. Will this damage the rotors?If so, I guess it will be simple green and a scotch brite pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4DAIVI PAI2K5 Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 brake cleaner...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 I got new brake pads, and have read that I need to remove the residue from the old pads off the rotors. I read that I should glass bead them, but I only have access to a sandblaster. Will this damage the rotors?If so, I guess it will be simple green and a scotch brite pad.Just use contact/brake cleaner and a scitch brite pad. Bead blasting them is not needed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted August 9, 2009 Report Share Posted August 9, 2009 this is what you should do. it's faster, better, and easier on your arms than just the scuffing pads.http://www.levineautoparts.com/3m1410.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Or, you can go to Dollar General and buy a scotch brite three pad kit for $3 and scrub away. Doesn't take much effort. No need to go overkill and use a drill... Just scuff them and wipe them clean with Brake Cleaner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 the red scotch brite bads body shops use work better though. I do a little bit of painting so I've had some laying around to try. better than sand paper too.or if you have some the plain paint stripping roloc disc work too. as you can tell I'm a man in favor of power tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enenen Posted August 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Or, you can go to Dollar General and buy a scotch brite three pad kit for $3 and scrub away. Doesn't take much effort. No need to go overkill and use a drill... Just scuff them and wipe them clean with Brake Cleaner...exactly what i did. dollar general across the street, three pads, $3. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) but those are for dishes guys. go to a autobody supply store and buy the real scuff pads made for sanding stuff.it works so much better. plus they are about $1.25 each. but don't take my word for it. LOL.and you are still going to spend a lot of time to get all of the glazing off. that's why real discs for this job are 100 grit and are used with a drill. (for making a true flat surface too) they will look just like a brand new set with all the cross hatching scratches etc. which will set the pads in properly too. Edited August 11, 2009 by serpentracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 You're over thinking this for sure. Running a powwer tool wwith a sanding disc isn't needed. If the rotors are completely glazed? Maybe. But, he's changing pads and only needs to scuff them slightly. You can do it your way or he can do what a lot of racers do and just use scitch brite pads and arm power.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 ^^ what SerpentRacer said. The maroon/red color is the coarsest "grit". Hardware stores got them. Great for removing crap without taking any or much of the metal away.Do not use steel wool on stainless steel. It will embed in the pores of the metal and promote corrosion. Real bad idea per aircraft maintenance manuals.Brake pad manufacturers have details on "how to" on their websites, and each brand and type seems to have different recommendations. And variations depending on whether it's for street or track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 (edited) You're over thinking this for sure. Running a powwer tool wwith a sanding disc isn't needed. If the rotors are completely glazed? Maybe. But, he's changing pads and only needs to scuff them slightly. You can do it your way or he can do what a lot of racers do and just use scitch brite pads and arm power....I know but that still isn't the proper way to bed in a set of new pads.you should always start with a 100% clean and flat rotor surface.yes it kind of works but that's like throwing a new clutch in a car and not surfacing the flywheel.just because some of you guys race doesn't mean you know how to properly do things to a bike. and some of the things I hear from some of them are very questionable.I even have this buddy who is a jet fighter mechanic in the airforce. and he doesn't bother to synch his throttle bodies by the air screws like the service manual says to. he's either too lazy or just thinks you don't need to. he uses the screws that connect the flaps together.just because he does it that way doesn't mean it's the right way... Edited August 11, 2009 by serpentracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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