New Crush Washers?

[MSerfozo]

I'm still having a problem getting my top-end-oiler on the right side to completely seal.  I get a drop of oil in about 20 miles, but it's enough to make a mess.  

I've replaced the copper crush washers a few times and applied differing viscosities of non-hardening sealants (Hylomar and Permatex #2) with a little improvement each time.

A couple days ago I went to Iron Pony and bought a set of factory crush washers from Suzuki.  The original part number had been superceded and instead of simple copper washers I got the ones pictured.

Has anybody ever used a sealing washer like this?  It kind of looks like the sealing ring on a spark plug but more opened up.

Unless anybody has a better idea, I assume I'll just put it together and crank the shit out of the banjo bolts (until they break, then back off a quarter turn).  I might put a dab of Permatex #2 on the sealing faces as well.

[MSerfozo]

Here's a closer pic of the application.  Arrows point to the sealing locations.

[Pauly]

I think you should use the new washers and apply the specific torque value listed in the OEM service manual, unless it has also been superseded. 

[Tonik]

Seems to me they redid the washers for a reason. I would follow standard procedures the first time. They may have fixed your issue.

[MSerfozo]

23 hours ago, Pauly said:

I think you should use the new washers and apply the specific torque value listed in the OEM service manual, unless it has also been superseded. 

No torque spec for an aftermarket performance part that's probably 20 years old.  I think I'll put it together with the washers and no sealant.  I've torqued these bolts enough times to be comfortable with doing it one more (hopefully) time.

 

1 hour ago, Tonik said:

Seems to me they redid the washers for a reason. I would follow standard procedures the first time. They may have fixed your issue.

I hope they redesigned the washers for an improved sealing system and not to save a nickel's worth of copper.  I'm hopeful that these will seal better.  They seem to have a light gray coating on the sealing faces that I think will help them to comply with slight irregularities of the mating surfaces.

[motocat12]

It's a total loss. Need to get a new bike while you rebuild.

Warm it up then torque it with new washers while warm? 

[MSerfozo]

1 hour ago, motocat12 said:

It's a total loss. Need to get a new bike while you rebuild.

Warm it up then torque it with new washers while warm? 

LOL, I don't need a new bike, I have this one almost exactly like I want it!  Until the next mod, anyway...  😎

 

I've been wondering whether it's better to torque it warm or cold.  I decide cold was better with the copper washers sandwiched in there because of different thermal expansion between Cu and Al.

[MSerfozo]

A little more Google shows that these are also sold by Suzuki as drain plug washers for models with a 14mm plug.  Hope they'll hold under the pressure of my application.  I plan to get them swapped later this morning when the garage warms a little.

[MSerfozo]

Well, shit!  Guess I'll try new copper ones again...

[AlanSmith7]

You must use the new washers and most importantly use the torque value accurately for this you used the list of in the OEM service manual. Then you will see the clear difference. After this you must share the final results of this.

[Pauly]

Totes gonna splode, bruh.