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Kill switch help!!!


alab32

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My engine cutoff switch is acting finicky. It took me awhile to figure out it was the swith but i figured it out eventually. If you use the switch you have to play with it to get it just right to not continue killing the engine. I have figured out how to do it but it is a pain in the butt and there ahs be be a way to fix it. hopefully without replacing it. The brights switch does the same thing. I dont get it. Anyone???

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Both the kill and the brights switch are doing the same thing?

Did it start at the same time? Is it possible you have a problem with your fuses? Start at the source and work your way backward checking/replacing the cheapest things first.

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it will be way way cheaper to replace it than fix it. Its fairly easy to do. Its a little strange its happening with the left side controlls too????

Yah that was my thought too, unless one did it then the other did it a year later it seems like it would be related...

Either way, switches are cheap to buy, if you're looking at repairing it a soldering a iron will probably be all you need, clean and resolder the connections I'd think.

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ill have to take it apart and look around a bit. You have to move the switch towards the kill direction a fraction of an inch to get it to work correctly. So i never use the kill switch anymore. The bright, when im turning them on its the same, mm's of movement sets it correctly in place. Started happening around the same time.

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ill have to take it apart and look around a bit. You have to move the switch towards the kill direction a fraction of an inch to get it to work correctly. So i never use the kill switch anymore. The bright, when im turning them on its the same, mm's of movement sets it correctly in place. Started happening around the same time.

does your cbr give you error codes on your tach? I know my 06 R6 does and you can look them up to see what it is. If your CBR doesn't do that, did you recently put in flushmounts or nething where you might have crossed some wires? Or are you just saying that the switches work fine electrically but mechanically they're not moving right?

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Elec wise they are fine. Once you get the switch in the EXACT right place it works fine. But when fully seated its just like if it were in kill mode. I have to "unseat" it by about a mm. I think it is mech not elec. Ill pop it open and check it out. Prob my best bet.

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Yeah sounds like the kill switch has debris in it allowing the contact to close, but why the high beam switch is killing your ride is beyond me?

The brights switch does the same thing.

Not a space craft electrician but if the high beam switch is killing your engine then something is grounding out or shorting out. Otherwise it would only effect the lights.

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Yeah sounds like the kill switch has debris in it allowing the contact to close, but why the high beam switch is killing your ride is beyond me?

Not a space craft electrician but if the high beam switch is killing your engine then something is grounding out or shorting out. Otherwise it would only effect the lights.

Sorry for the confusion. The brights switch isnt killing the bike. The brights switch is acting the way the kill switch is meaning that the brights will be finicky. I have to get the switch just right to engage the brights.

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If it's like other flip switches there is a copper contact inside held in place with glue. Very possible the contact has come unglued and is sticking to the switch. Should be easy enough to unscrew the collar and chase the wires to determine if it is free inside. If so a little emblem glue and a q-tip might be all it takes to reseat it.

Good luck.

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