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Purchasing a -1/+2 gear


Jcroz91

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Fuck you' date=' Justin. Fuck you, Matt. Fuck you, JCrotch. Fuck you, Shitty. Fuck you, Jagr. Fuck you, 1000RRRRRRRRRRRider.

Anyone else feel like questioning my ultimate authority on GixxARSE? No? Didn't fucking think so.

Fuck off! :boxing:[/quote']

Fuck you and your steel sprockets!!!!:thefinger:

Aluminum sprockets on the skreet = fail :(

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Someone's gotta post the picture of the ground up swingarm from the missing spacer... I love that picture.

@jcoz:Why not go up one at a time? go up 2 in the back and ride it out to see if you're good with it then go -1 and a new chain?

Someone's gonna say "you should replace them all at the same time" but meh, I'll let a mechanic chime in

The -1 on the front is usually the easiest to do, and offers the most difference. It's simple math, ratios. Might want too try that first on your trashed chain, just to see if that's what you want. That way, if you decide you want more, you can get a +2 for the rear, and right chain. If your chain is as rough as you make it sound, I wouldn't run it much longer than just enough to tell if the -1 front is enough.

Changing both sprockets and the chain all at once is the best. However, it's likely that the front sprocket is trashed, and the rear still in very usable condition, making it less necessary to change the rear.

Steel vs. aluminum...... Full aluminum sprockets have there place, and it not on a bike that's rode hard on the street. On the track, things are much different, and one would expect to replace parts more often, so why not go with something lighter..... I do like those sweet looking aluminum hub, steel outer, sprockets! They even look "blingy" if that's what matters to you.

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-1 is all you need, you can take one from a same year 600 and be good

Thanks Mako!

-1 is a pretty good increase in pull.....

But again if this is your first street bike you might want to wait awhile before doing all the changes.

If you change the gearing don't forget about a speedohealer or one of 12 o'clockers....

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Jcroz.... You might want to notice all the USEFUL help that's being spewed in this thread, compared to the smartass comment and slams. Some of us pretty much ALWAYS smart off in threads, just to mess with certain others (we know who we are, no need to call us out here). I just wanted to point this out, so that you understand how Ohio-riders is, and how we work!

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i have the 520 conversion kit on mine. not that big of gains in torque/low end power. does make it a pain on the highway. get annoying screaming at 6-7 rpms going 65-70. i bought the sprocket specialist superlight chain kit.i bought it mainly cause i was going to buy a new gold chain and black sprockets. if you dont do a lot of highway riding, go for it. corey at mummy is great to work with. get your gdc discount. the bike will wheelie with ease stock. dont be afraid to twist the throttle or dump it

I concur with the annoying screaming rpms on the highway, but I try to avoid highway if I can anyway. I have -1/+2 on my bike (previous owner put them on) and I love it as I would prefer to have the acceleration over the top end for my riding purposes.

but yes, you can change one at a time... I had planned to change just my rear to lower highway rpms a little but I decided it's liveable for me (scottb, bad, jbc and kosmo likely have a diffferent opinion on if it's tolerable :))

Its not THAT bad but then again its pretty hard for me to hear anyones bike over mine right now with the super sweet "gutted" exhaust with 3 holes in it

If you change the gearing don't forget about a speedohealer or one of 12 o'clockers....

Yes a speedohealer is definitely great. My bike readthat I was going about 12.4% faster as well as shows I have approx 12.4% miles on it than it truly does. I put on a 12oclock labs healer on last week and would highly recommend one, good price and great quality. I previously didn't have much experience with working on bikes and even I was able to install this myself, its plug and play once you find the speed sensor

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-1 is about equal to +3. For strength its better to go + in the rear....too much - in the front makes too much pinch on the chain. That said -1+2 is very common. The down side of + in the rear is you will need a new chain. I know my R1 was able to get away with a +2 but then again it shortens your WB.

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All bikes should have -1+2 IMO. Its a sportbike its supposed to be loud and fast. U will have to change gears more,but thats how u go fast. Get 1 new chain and put the biggest sprocket u plan on usin on and cut the chain so that the axle spacers are all the way to front or close. Then u can always go down on teeth from there. On my race bike i can put 3 diff rear sprockets on the same chain,but it does affect handleing with the diff WB.

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