In a sticky spot with my CBR954 cam chain

[Ghost954rr]

I'm replacing my cam chain and guides. There seemed to be no way to get them off without removing the cams, so I did. my service manual has not been very helpful. I have the new guides in, and the chain is around the timing sprocket on the crank shaft, but I can't seem to get the chain on the cam sprockets with the cam sprockets in place. I haven't put the cam holders on and tightened them down yet, because the manual says... and I quote word for word... "install the cam chain over the cam sprockets and then install the intake and exhaust cams" Well that's just not helpful at all.

Any ideas would be great.. I think I have me cam chain tensioner all the way loose, but it's hard to say for sure with the little tool I made to turn it and lock it into place. I barely got the cam chain off when I had the cams installed, but the chain wouldn't make it past the bolts on the cam sprockets, which is why I removed the cams. With a new chain, I doubt I can install is the same way I removed it.

[Hoblick]

the sprockets should unbolt from the cams.

should be two 10mm bolts that hold each sprocket on to the cam itself.

also make sure you have the cam chain tensioner released. it takes a special tool to hold it in the released position. if not youll need someone to use a small flat head screw driver to hold the tensioner in the released position.

i have had the cams out of a few different bikes, quads, dirtbikes, and havent had to pull the sprocket off of a cam yet, unless i was putting in a new cam.

so i guess make sure your tensioner is released, and if it is, then id say pull the sprocket off the cam install cams, then install sprockets with the chain already on them.

make sure you mark the sprockets to the cams so you know they are where they should be when you go to re install them.

[EvilTwin]

Take the cam chain tensioner completely out, if you have any tension on your chain then that is what is making it so difficult to get back in.

[Ghost954rr]

Thanks guys. That's exactly what I needed to do: take the tensioner completely out. cams are back in, in time, and nowI just have to go buy a new torque wrench cause the only one I have goes from 25-250 lb/ft.

[serpentracer]

good luck. you'll probably have to hunt down a tool truck or order one from the net.

I've never seen a decent one in a store (not even sears) that start out below 20ft/lbs in a 3/8 wrench.

I have one from KD tools and it starts at 10 but that's the lowest I've ever seen in person for a 3/8 wrench.

but they sell 1/4 drive wrench that measures in-lbs. they should cover you if you are really worried about it.

(kind of silly to worry about it unless its something like the bearing caps etc)

http://www.kd-tools.com/32613262.htm

Edited March 20, 2010 by serpentracer

[EvilTwin]

Man if it's under 20 ft-lbs I just do it by feel... though I would never do that on a customer's bike

[Moto-Brian]

Craftsman's 3/8 torque wrenches are 5 ft. lbs and up. The 1/2 drive is from 20 up...

Go to Lowes even and grab a Kobalt one... The 3/8s are 5 and up...

[EvilTwin]

[EvilTwin]

+1 factory manuals are the best, well worth the extra $.

[Ghost954rr]

yes. I'm using a factory service manual. I found a Craftsman digitork at sears with 3/8" drive going from 5-80lb/ft.

[EvilTwin]

Still a torque wrench is never accurate once it goes below 20% of it's max torque, so that wrench is not considered accurate below 16ft-lbs.

[Moto-Brian]

Still a torque wrench is never accurate once it goes below 20% of it's max torque, so that wrench is not considered accurate below 16ft-lbs.

Uh.... 20% of maximum torque is saying that anything below 64 ft lbs is inaccurate.

I think you are saying that anything sub 16 ft lbs should be used with a smaller ranged torque wrench...

[EvilTwin]

Uh.... 20% of maximum torque is saying that anything below 64 ft lbs is inaccurate.

I think you are saying that anything sub 16 ft lbs should be used with a smaller ranged torque wrench...

Below 20% of max torque, not 20% below max torque or however you came up w/ your goofy #. Yes, on an 80 ft-lb torque wrench if you go below 16ft-bls (20% of 80) then it will be inaccurate, and the degree of inaccuracy increases exponentially the lower you go.

[crf69]

A manual tensioner is best

[crf69]

doesn't put excess pressure on the chain

[crf69]

And can never fail

[ReconRat]

Still a torque wrench is never accurate once it goes below 20% of it's max torque, so that wrench is not considered accurate below 16ft-lbs.

Correct. The low part of a torque wrench's range is not so accurate.

I use a 3/8 inch drive inch-pound clicker torque wrench, with a good range.

I usually set newton-meters, rather than converting ft-lb to in-lb.

Torque by feel? Bad idea. The smaller torque settings are tough to get right. In other words, if your hand is plus or minus 5 ft-lb, and you are trying to hit 15 ft-lb, it will be 10 to 20 ft-lb. That's either half loose, or half broken. Been there, done that.

[ReconRat]

A quick note on method of torquing.

Any pattern of bolts, 2 or more, or symmetrical hardware, or groups of hardware, like on forks and suspension. These should be torqued as a set, in a reasonable pattern, in incremental steps. Torque all to 1/4 total torque first, then 1/2 total torque, and last, torqued to full torque specified.

I know it doesn't always have to be done that way, but it does avoid some goofy things that sometimes happen.

[jporter12]

For anything that my 20-100 ft-lb won't handle, I have a 3/8 drive in-lb on the bottom, or a 50-250 ft-lb on the top. The in-lb gets the most use, but needs replaced, it broke the last time I used it.

[crf69]

A quick note on method of torquing.

Any pattern of bolts, 2 or more, or symmetrical hardware, or groups of hardware, like on forks and suspension. These should be torqued as a set, in a reasonable pattern, in incremental steps. Torque all to 1/4 total torque first, then 1/2 total torque, and last, torqued to full torque specified.

I know it doesn't always have to be done that way, but it does avoid some goofy things that sometimes happen.

That can be a little scientific now

[Ghost954rr]

I'm good on the manual tensioner. They're a good idea for a track only bike, but not a daily driver. Requires too much adjustment. As far as torquing in a pattern.. that's just being a good mechanic. You can break parts torquing things down all willy-nilly like.