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Honda Special Service tool


hue jass

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Actually, I just pull the two bolts out of the strut, lean the hub assembly out and you'll have enough room to pull the half shaft out. Then pry the half shaft out of the trans. when you put the new half shaft in the transmission, smack the end of it with a dead blow hammer until it pops in.

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Actually, I just pull the two bolts out of the strut, lean the hub assembly out and you'll have enough room to pull the half shaft out. Then pry the half shaft out of the trans. when you put the new half shaft in the transmission, smack the end of it with a dead blow hammer until it pops in.

Not on that one you wouldn't! The strut is the one that has the wishbone that the halfshaft goes through, they just have it removed in that vid.

The manufacturers recommend against using the method we use, smacking it with a hammer, because it distorts the tapered hole in the control arm, and you're not guarateed that the stud of the ball joint will fit the taper properly anymore. Will that change how I do them? Nope! I've never had a problem with one. Maybe one time I'll assemble one with some prussian blue compound and see how it checks out. I think I have to pull the halfshafts on my own car to get the catalytic converters through, so I could try it then, if I remember.

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he isnt pressing out the ball joint - he is separating it from the control arm

duh. pressing it out is how a tool for removing them works. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Kit-03-Ball-Joint-and-Tie-Rod-Removal-Set-(6-piece)-Alltrade-Tools_9150006-P_N3492_T%7CGRP2083____

they also have the press fit kind tools. (like what's on a ford explorer)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Kit-46-Ball-Joint-U-Joint-Service-Set-(23-piece)-Alltrade-Tools_9150043-P_N3492_T%7CGRP2083____

hammering them out is just one method. using a fork is another.

but it ruins the boots for the most part.

Edited by serpentracer
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this is the tool i thought you were referring to...in which case, is not what he needed..thats why i left the remark i did...there is a difference in separating and removing

no need to get so defensive, im tired of arguing with you on everything - i was only mentioning that he did not need a press to separate it

youre fucking exhausting to talk to - im done bothering

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this is the tool i thought you were referring to...in which case, is not what he needed...all you mentioned was a press, which is what that is...thats why i left the remark i did...there is a difference in separating and removing

no need to get so defensive, im tired of arguing with you on everything - i was only mentioning that he did not need a press to remove it

youre fucking exhausting to talk to - im done bothering

:cry:

but you did have me wonder exactly what he is wanting to do. remove it from the spindle or seprate it from the arm like in the video.

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:cry:

but you did have me wonder exactly what he is wanting to do. remove it from the spindle or seprate it from the arm like in the video.

wondering? he doesnt want to separate it, he just posted the video for fun. :rolleyes:

and i caught your ninja edit - you were about to have him waste a trip to the parts store, so i only mentioned that maybe you misunderstood what he was trying to do (which, apparently you did) to save him the trip...i hardly call that "butting in where im not needed", atleast no more than your comment to him

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wondering? he doesnt want to separate it, he just posted the video for fun. :rolleyes:

and i caught your ninja edit - you were about to have him waste a trip to the parts store, so i only mentioned that maybe you misunderstood what he was trying to do (which, apparently you did) to save him the trip...i hardly call that "butting in where im not needed", atleast no more than your comment to him

what is he trying to do anyway? if it's not seperating it from the control arm? because that method in the video looks like the smartest way. it poped right out.

or is HE not understanding how it works? fuck now I'm all confused.

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what is he trying to do anyway? if it's not seperating it from the control arm? because that method in the video looks like the smartest way.

the method in the video is the best way..or a hammer, you can even find a flat spot and hammer to not mess up the taper...the front end on that is a little different than any ive worked on (only domestics), so im not sure exactly how its setup, but it appears the top of the balljoint is pressed into the control arm instead of secured by a tie rod end...someone explain it to me please? ive never worked on a honda, but i am familiar with how most domestics are setup in the front

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I'm all over it. The trick works perfect. I'll change out the seals before the new axles go in. I didn't want to wreck the grease boots on the ball joints. Two of my pullers would've done that. Couldn't use the old separator on this. The trick worked just like in the vid. All good:)

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These pics show the tool that Honda really wants you to use:

I've got one of these. It just wasn't wide enough to get around the shank under the grease boot.

On changing the oil, I noticed the plug was huge. Turns out whoever was changing the oil didn't know how to torque a bolt and stripped the thing. They put an over sized plug in it but didn't get it threaded perfectly straight so it slowly drips oil. I found this place called C-Cor Automotive on Refugee. They had three pans, my choice. The place is huge and filthy with long rows of tables where guys are dismantling engines and cataloging the parts. I chose the one I wanted, the guy put it in a heavy plastic bag and heat-sealed the end and I paid $75. C-Cor Automotive is a good tip if you need anything engine related.

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