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Bluezx6r

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i dont understand why though? can you explain? when i jump cars i leave the jumper running - whats the difference for bikes if they run on the same circuit.

**edit, quick google search confirms my thinking also....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66214

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=110361

sounds like the issue arises if the cables are left on for too long - and not necessarily from having them hooked up

assuming the bikes electircal system was in proper working condition beforehand, it would only take the amps it needed and burn off the rest as heat - hence there being a problem if the cables are left connected for too long and burn up the R/R

what happened to replacing weak batteries before trying to diagnose other electrical system problems? if you KNOW the battery is weak, and youre having starting problems, it makes sense to start with replacing the battery

Edited by Steve Butters
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The car running utilizes an alternator that generates more power then your motorcycle can handle. Most bikes use a flywheel magneto to charge the battery vs the belt driven alternator in the car.

isnt that what the R/R is there for? to protect the bike from too much current?

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i guess i just dont understand trying to diagnose a no start problem without replacing a known weak battery.....thats just me, yall can do whatever you want, but if my stuff isnt starting and i know my battery is bad - im replacing the battery before i go any further

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A car battery puts out 12 to 14 volts, which is within the range of your motorcycle battery and charging system. With the car running, it was moving through its charge/discharge cycle. Nothing crazy, and nothing that should/would have fried your regulator unless there was already something wrong with it. Like it had a screwdriver through it.

I disagree, and (unfortunately) have experience to back up my claim.

a car battery puts out 12-14 volts, but with the car running, the alternator puts out a LOT more than that even at idle.

I fried the voltage regulator on the EX on Sunday doing exactly what the OP did.

It sounds like his battery was in better shape than mine (i left it in the bike knowing it needed to be replaced this spring anyway).

If there was any kind of smoke or anything, I'd say your voltage regulator is cooked. check eBay for the part. Mine was $30 or something silly,a nd it's literally 2 screws and 1 quick-connect plug to replace it. Getting to it is harder than actually replacing it.

Nothing wrong with the $50 walmart batteries as long as you trickle-charge them first. They'll work fine even w/o the charge, but just won't last as long. I still got 4 years out of the last one...

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i guess i just dont understand trying to diagnose a no start problem without replacing a known weak battery.....thats just me, yall can do whatever you want, but if my stuff isnt starting and i know my battery is bad - im replacing the battery before i go any further

BC he hasnt fully proven that the battery is the cause. It may have just been a battery with no charge at first. But once he jumped to a running car all bets are off to what it can be then. More things could have been jacked up....which is very much likely. Hence the reason I asked for more details as to what happens when he puts his key in and tries to start.

Buying $50-70 battery just because your MC wont start isnt proper troubleshooting and can be very expensive.

If he charges his battery, then it should turno ver the bike as long as he sees 12.8V. If bike starts, and battery loses charge over time then fine replace the battery...its the issue.

Did he say his battery was weak? what exactly does that mean? Cant hold a full charge or wont charge fully?

Details help.

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yes he said he tested his battery and it said it was weak - but that it tests as "good".....not sure how a weak battery is good - so if it tests weak, i would say replace it - regardless of any other issue, a weak battery needs to be addressed....even if he fixes whatever else is wrong, if anything.

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Im at work on a cell so bare with me here lol.

1.The bike will run if push started. However if you turn the bike off the battery will not start the bike again.

2. The battery reader said the battery (out of the bike) was putting out 11 volts.

3. Not for sure because I've not tried in a day or so but I can hear the fuel pump whine when I turn the key, the lights power on and so does the tach and speedo. The bike will turnover one or twice then click and die.

4. I push started the bike and left it running for about 25 to 30 mins and turned it off and it woulde t start again by the key.

Still need to check fuses and relays. Just trying to give a lil more info.

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Im at work on a cell so bare with me here lol.

1.The bike will run if push started. However if you turn the bike off the battery will not start the bike again.

2. The battery reader said the battery (out of the bike) was putting out 11 volts.

3. Not for sure because I've not tried in a day or so but I can hear the fuel pump whine when I turn the key, the lights power on and so does the tach and speedo. The bike will turnover one or twice then click and die.

4. I push started the bike and left it running for about 25 to 30 mins and turned it off and it woulde t start again by the key.

Still need to check fuses and relays. Just trying to give a lil more info.

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everything you just described says battery....and 11v is a BAD battery, no matter how you cut it.

if stuff was fried, you wouldnt be bumping it and having it fire up

youre making it way too complicated man lol go buy a battery and go from there

I think we need to start a fund to help this guy buy a battery, I wonder if he wears his helmet all the time:confused:

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i think hes got it figured out - i spoke with him last night on the phone...seems like a new battery is what it needs...after awhile on the charger he got it running and firing up just fine - hes going to check it again today after letting it sit to see if it starts

and to his credit - i have ridden with him and he does wear his gear lol

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yea me too - i did learn stuff from this thread though, so its not all bad haha

had no idea that a running car would burn up a bikes R/R - but it does make sense now

i just bought a bikemaster gel battery for my quad and only rode it once :( damn damn.....put a bunch of time into rebuilding it and stuff and now all it needs is an o-ring and an oil change and im too lazy to finish it haha

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