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Need a new chain.. Endless?


Aetsh

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Manual says I need an endless, and do not use a masterlink chain..But I prefer masterlink chains, and prolly not gonna end up tracking the bike anytime soon..

So, has anyone used a ML chain when the application says endless?

Bike is a 97 Ninja ex500/ninja 500r

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I'm pretty sure they mean the riveted master link, and not to use the clip on master link.

On the track would be where you would use the clip type for fast change.

But it would be safety wired in place.

Some of our guys use a clip instead, but on rare occasions, those clips come off.

Strength of the clip type is close, but riveted is stronger and more durable.

My old bikes used clip master links, and I carried spares on the bike.

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Basically you want a chain that is strong enough for your bike.

The manufacturer has recommendations, based on strength and design.

The manufacturer will also recommend master links that match the chain you pick.

for your size chain, it will probably offer both types of master links.

For most chains, that's what you should do.

Which means if you go out and find some cheap master link that isn't strong enough, it just might break.

Offhand, I think a good clip type master link is ok on a 500cc bike.

Check out some of the motorcycle chain websites.

Lots of information can be found there.

http://www.didchain.com/streetChains.html

http://www.ekchain.com/

edit: a rivet master link is about 20% stronger than a press fit clip type.

A press fit clip type master link is about 20% stronger than the common loose fit clip type.

Edited by ReconRat
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Clip types are for easy fixing. NOBODY should even consider a clip style for track use. Safety wire and RTV isn't enough. It's a strength issue and prone to failure.

If street riding, put it this way - would you run your spare tire on the drive end of your car until the other three wore down to buy four at one time? Same thing here. Buy a rivet link, get it installed PROPERLY and be done with it. Clips will break, safety wire will snag, RTV will wear off, etc. Rivet link will last until you need a new chain.

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Somebody please explain why its a strength issue. The side plates are the same no matter which version you go with. The stress isn't on the outer edges of the link, its on the pins and the side plates. i.e. the chain shouldn't have side to side stressors, but rather front to rear pressure as the countershaft sprocket yanks the chain through. I have used clip-ons w/ safety wire for many years, over many chains, on the track and on the street. Never an issue. I have a chain press, btw, but even with the spacer plates which keep you from crushing the o-rings, I hate trying to figure out if I've mushroomed the pin enough.

Edited by YSR_Racer_99
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Somebody please explain why its a strength issue. The side plates are the same no matter which version you go with. The stress isn't on the outer edges of the link, its on the pins and the side plates. i.e. the chain shouldn't have side to side stressors, but rather front to rear pressure as the countershaft sprocket yanks the chain through. I have used clip-ons w/ safety wire for many years, over many chains, on the track and on the street. Never an issue. I have a chain press, btw, but even with the spacer plates which keep you from crushing the o-rings, I hate trying to figure out if I've mushroomed the pin enough.

The fit of the pin in the hole will change the shear strength.

The strongest is a press fit or interference fit.

A loose fit will dump all the force in a smaller area on the pin and/or side plate.

Formed rivets are good if the formed head is within the min/max height and/or width when finished.

Edited by ReconRat
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The fit of the pin in the hole will change the shear strength.

The strongest is a press fit or interference fit.

A loose fit will dump all the force in a smaller area on the pin.

Formed rivets are good if the formed head is within the min/max height and/or width when finished.

A good clip link will still require a press fit. A properly fit clip master link will run a while even if the clip has fallen off.

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  • 2 weeks later...
The fit of the pin in the hole will change the shear strength.

The strongest is a press fit or interference fit.

A loose fit will dump all the force in a smaller area on the pin.

Formed rivets are good if the formed head is within the min/max height and/or width when finished.

May not be as necessary on a 250 vs. 1000......quite a bit of hp/torque difference, so the 250 could probably get away with clip type.

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Looking at this a different way... *calculating*... a basic sport bike can put around 6000 lateral G force on the links of the chain and the clip and/or safety wire. I am now not surprised that both clips and/or safety wire can vanish. Rivet master links for high speed use, tyvm...

edit: that's for the rear sprocket, the front sprocket is about the same, 3 times less diameter but 3 times the revolutions.

edit: calculations based on 180/55-17 @ 150mph w/ 43T/530 rear sprocket. Yeah, that's my bike.

Edited by ReconRat
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