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Conventional oil vs. Amsoil synthetic


chevysoldier

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The first picture is an engine from a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800, 197,000 miles. As far as I know it has always had conventional motor oil in it. Notice the gunk build up.

mvssv8.jpg

This is an engine from a 1995 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight 3800m 134,000mi, my grandfather's car. Exact same engine as the Grand Prix. I just got this car a week ago. Anyways, he has always used Amsoil Synthetic motor oil in it. Notice how much cleaner it is? I believe the oil was changed about every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, I'll have to double check his note tonight.

2q8zdpi.jpg

This is why I use Amsoil Synthetic oil in my vehicles.

Edited by chevysoldier
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My 160,000 mile 1972 Olds Cutlass looked like the bottom picture when I gave it up.

Busted two lifters (same one both times) at 60,000 and 120,000 and replaced, that's how I got in there to see. (Typical olds small block.)

Castrol GTX mineral non-synthetic for it's entire time with me. Changed 4 times a year.

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Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. :D

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Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. :D

BTW, That's Pedro's Grand Prix. It had a misfire on cyl 2. Turns out the plastic brace that keeps the lifters sitting correctly broke on that cylinder. Let the lifters rotate and jack up the push rods.

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My 160,000 mile 1972 Olds Cutlass looked like the bottom picture when I gave it up.

Busted two lifters (same one both times) at 60,000 and 120,000 and replaced, that's how I got in there to see. (Typical olds small block.)

Castrol GTX mineral non-synthetic for it's entire time with me. Changed 4 times a year.

I have been using Castrol in all my trucks for years. Now I'm curious what the 22RE looks like under the lid.

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ive always used carstol gtx in my 98 grand am 3.1L, its goning on 170,000 miles with never a engine issue...my dad had a 84 pontiac 6000 with a 2.8L and he had 280,000 miles on it when he sold it still running great using old fashined Quaker State...i use mobile 1 in my 07 impala but ive never been sold 100% on sythetic...i have to use standard oil in mu TL or the clutch will slip

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BTW, That's Pedro's Grand Prix. It had a misfire on cyl 2. Turns out the plastic brace that keeps the lifters sitting correctly broke on that cylinder. Let the lifters rotate and jack up the push rods.

I've never seen one of those break! He USED to be good about changing the oil on time, but I had noticed that he started slacking off over the past couple years.

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I've never seen one of those break! He USED to be good about changing the oil on time, but I had noticed that he started slacking off over the past couple years.

It's been "knocking" for some time now too! Weird thing is after a few minutes of running, it would quite down. :dunno:

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Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. :D

Yes, I changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles. But hey, a quart of GTX was 70 cents on sale. Mine didn't look quite as hot as that V-6 though. Just clean.

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"popcorn"

Emoticon fail :nono:

:popcorn:

It's been "knocking" for some time now too! Weird thing is after a few minutes of running, it would quite down. :dunno:

Quite? You went to some backwoods redneck school, didn't you? Oh wait, our kids are going to that same school! Ugh...

I think I remember hearing it making noise before.

just put some diesel oil in it...after all its knocking like one right?

Engine flush? That's pretty close to what the engine flush stuff in a can is.

Shell Rotella T oil? oh wait, that is for bikes....oh wait, wrong thread...

:lol: I run Rotella T in the Hon-duh, and Valvoline 4 cycle in the 250.

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I stored the bikes with gallons of cheap Rotella T JASO 15-40W semi-synthetic, and am riding with it to see how it works out. So far it's a bit hard to start on cold days. Shifts feel a little different. But that might just be the bike and the temperatures.

Edited by ReconRat
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I stored the bikes with gallons of Rotella T JASO 15-40W, and am riding with it to see how it works out. So far it's a bit hard to start on cold days. Shifts feel a little different. But that might just be the bike and the temperatures.

I like the way the Hon-duh does with it. I may try it in the Neenjer, and see how I like it. It tends to burn a little when I ride it hard, maybe the 15-40 will make that decrease a little.

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how often was the oil changed in engine 1? that could have a lot to do with buildup.

for comparison, here is a 95 accord engine. 130K. always used conventional oil.

DSC03351.jpg

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Not trying to start anything, but could there other factors like PCV valve system and overall engine and engine bay designs that may create a difference in "less internal buildup"? A better comparison would be same type of vehicle and same engine. One with conventional oil and one with synthetic?

Now back to the female zombie link from the other thread......

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