chevysoldier Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) The first picture is an engine from a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3800, 197,000 miles. As far as I know it has always had conventional motor oil in it. Notice the gunk build up.This is an engine from a 1995 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight 3800m 134,000mi, my grandfather's car. Exact same engine as the Grand Prix. I just got this car a week ago. Anyways, he has always used Amsoil Synthetic motor oil in it. Notice how much cleaner it is? I believe the oil was changed about every 7,500 or 10,000 miles, I'll have to double check his note tonight.This is why I use Amsoil Synthetic oil in my vehicles. Edited April 16, 2011 by chevysoldier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojocho Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 WOW. I already use Amsoil on the bike, but will continue to for sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 My 160,000 mile 1972 Olds Cutlass looked like the bottom picture when I gave it up.Busted two lifters (same one both times) at 60,000 and 120,000 and replaced, that's how I got in there to see. (Typical olds small block.)Castrol GTX mineral non-synthetic for it's entire time with me. Changed 4 times a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty1 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 The first picture does look better but there are many things not taken into account here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty1 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Although I personally use synthetic, but not because of the supposed benefits, but because I can change my oil less frequently just by swapping out filters in between... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. BTW, That's Pedro's Grand Prix. It had a misfire on cyl 2. Turns out the plastic brace that keeps the lifters sitting correctly broke on that cylinder. Let the lifters rotate and jack up the push rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 My 160,000 mile 1972 Olds Cutlass looked like the bottom picture when I gave it up.Busted two lifters (same one both times) at 60,000 and 120,000 and replaced, that's how I got in there to see. (Typical olds small block.)Castrol GTX mineral non-synthetic for it's entire time with me. Changed 4 times a year.I have been using Castrol in all my trucks for years. Now I'm curious what the 22RE looks like under the lid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 ive always used carstol gtx in my 98 grand am 3.1L, its goning on 170,000 miles with never a engine issue...my dad had a 84 pontiac 6000 with a 2.8L and he had 280,000 miles on it when he sold it still running great using old fashined Quaker State...i use mobile 1 in my 07 impala but ive never been sold 100% on sythetic...i have to use standard oil in mu TL or the clutch will slip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 BTW, That's Pedro's Grand Prix. It had a misfire on cyl 2. Turns out the plastic brace that keeps the lifters sitting correctly broke on that cylinder. Let the lifters rotate and jack up the push rods.I've never seen one of those break! He USED to be good about changing the oil on time, but I had noticed that he started slacking off over the past couple years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 "popcorn" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevysoldier Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 I've never seen one of those break! He USED to be good about changing the oil on time, but I had noticed that he started slacking off over the past couple years.It's been "knocking" for some time now too! Weird thing is after a few minutes of running, it would quite down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponyjr Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 It's been "knocking" for some time now too! Weird thing is after a few minutes of running, it would quite down. just put some diesel oil in it...after all its knocking like one right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Changing the oil on time, or running a more expensive synthetic. Both yield similar results in most cases. The synthetic usually ends up being cheaper due to less frequent changes. I use synthetic, and change it at around 4 or 5k miles in the cage, so I should be good, as long as I don't let it run too low on oil again. Yes, I changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles. But hey, a quart of GTX was 70 cents on sale. Mine didn't look quite as hot as that V-6 though. Just clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottb Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Shell Rotella T oil? oh wait, that is for bikes....oh wait, wrong thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 "popcorn"Emoticon fail It's been "knocking" for some time now too! Weird thing is after a few minutes of running, it would quite down. Quite? You went to some backwoods redneck school, didn't you? Oh wait, our kids are going to that same school! Ugh... I think I remember hearing it making noise before.just put some diesel oil in it...after all its knocking like one right?Engine flush? That's pretty close to what the engine flush stuff in a can is.Shell Rotella T oil? oh wait, that is for bikes....oh wait, wrong thread... I run Rotella T in the Hon-duh, and Valvoline 4 cycle in the 250. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) I stored the bikes with gallons of cheap Rotella T JASO 15-40W semi-synthetic, and am riding with it to see how it works out. So far it's a bit hard to start on cold days. Shifts feel a little different. But that might just be the bike and the temperatures. Edited April 17, 2011 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 I stored the bikes with gallons of Rotella T JASO 15-40W, and am riding with it to see how it works out. So far it's a bit hard to start on cold days. Shifts feel a little different. But that might just be the bike and the temperatures.I like the way the Hon-duh does with it. I may try it in the Neenjer, and see how I like it. It tends to burn a little when I ride it hard, maybe the 15-40 will make that decrease a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 I use Vasoline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 how often was the oil changed in engine 1? that could have a lot to do with buildup.for comparison, here is a 95 accord engine. 130K. always used conventional oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottb Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Not trying to start anything, but could there other factors like PCV valve system and overall engine and engine bay designs that may create a difference in "less internal buildup"? A better comparison would be same type of vehicle and same engine. One with conventional oil and one with synthetic?Now back to the female zombie link from the other thread...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monstrosity Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 how often was the oil changed in engine 1? that could have a lot to do with buildup.for comparison, here is a 95 accord engine. 130K. always used conventional oil.That things mint! Why did you open it up? What oil did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironbuttwannabe Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Chevy, ever tear one. Open with ROTELLA? I'd tell that guy to run it and then see what it looks like after a year. Just to see how much it will clear it up. I know for old tractors that's what I do. It will clear it right up from my experiece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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