Tomcat0403 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 For those of you who have a jeep or any mechanical knowledge I need some input. My jeeps engine has developed a very loud rapping noise, coming directly from the engine block. I have had lifter noise for the past few years but this is very different. It sounds like a midget is using a small hammer and hitting the engine, and it varies directly with the rpm whether in or out of gear. Oil level is good, recently changed (1500 miles since), oil pressure is good, drives normal, no loss of power, no sputtering, no smoke, no check engine light. The only thing that has been leaking is the gasket around the water pump due to a broken bolt. Very slow leak and I keep it in check and has not overheated since the fan clutch/waterpump took a shit last year. I have checked the forums for the most part and haven't really found anything which is really surprising.Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbluebird Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 open hood remove todd, take away hammer, close hood and drive. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grapesmuggler27 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Sounds like a spun bearing/rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f4isvt Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 J.ust E.mpty E.very P.ocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowdog Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 open hood remove todd, take away hammer, close hood and drive.:lol:I love this site!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblosser Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 open hood remove todd, take away hammer, close hood and drive.you done beated me to it.. +rep for funniez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 open hood remove todd, take away hammer, close hood and drive.Sounds like a spun bearing/rod^ this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I usually dont find myself this lost when it comes to this, but how difficult/expensive is it to replace a bearing? And potential consequences for driving it the next two weeks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapphy Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Your Jeep is Rapping? Is it any good? It like good Eminem Rapping or crappy rapping like Bizmarkey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Very expensive. Once it starts knocking, it usually ruins the crankshaft, and egg shapes the connecting rod. Engine basically need to come apart, crankshaft reground, or replaced, and the bad rod replaced. The engine should be completely disassembled and cleaned, because you now have metal shavings all through it. The oil pump should be replaced as insurance while it's open. You might be better off finding a lower mile used one, or a remanufactured engine. The other possibility would be a broken piston skirt, which would be pretty close to the same deal, nut would probably mean that the engine block is trashed.Sorry, but it doesn't sound like a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 i can get a re manufactured engine for 1800 through quadratec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grapesmuggler27 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Very expensive. Once it starts knocking, it usually ruins the crankshaft, and egg shapes the connecting rod. Engine basically need to come apart, crankshaft reground, or replaced, and the bad rod replaced. The engine should be completely disassembled and cleaned, because you now have metal shavings all through it. The oil pump should be replaced as insurance while it's open. You might be better off finding a lower mile used one, or a remanufactured engine. The other possibility would be a broken piston skirt, which would be pretty close to the same deal, nut would probably mean that the engine block is trashed.Sorry, but it doesn't sound like a good thing. This is it here. Sometimes its cheaper to replace whole motor. I wouldn't drive it any more. You run the the risk of the rod coming off completely and it going through the engine block. In any case a new motor would be the cure. Or post it for sale on CL as custom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysix Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 if you plan on keeping it for a while go with a good reman. engine. If you are going to sell it in year or so id just install a used engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysix Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 or option 3: sell it as is and use that money for a down payment on a new 4dr wrangler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomcat0403 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 i have horrible credit, would love a new jeep unlimited, have nothing to really use to buy something outright.I can probably get 4k for the jeep and have my tax return, so maybe 7-8 k realistically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunkus1969 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I have to agree with Grapesmuggler and jporter: Bottom end bearing- continuing to running the engine can cause total failure of drivetrain if you are moving and engine locks up - can also wipe out whole engine beyond possibility of rebuild, transmission, u-joints and possibly rear end (that is what happened to me at 55 mph). That is a common engine also used in the Cherokees and Grand Cherokees. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunkus1969 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 If they have them - Complete engine from Pick-N-Pull down on Groveport Rd. will usually be under $400 with a 30 day warranty (unless they changed warranty recently) Look for a stock suspension cherokee or grand cherokee that was T-Boned - hit in the side (odds are that it was running/being driven when wrecked) Note: the Cherokees are usually urban vehicles that see mild use as opposed to wranglers the get more offroad time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Bizmarkey>emminem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I have to agree with Grapesmuggler and jporter: Bottom end bearing- continuing to running the engine can cause total failure of drivetrain if you are moving and engine locks up - can also wipe out whole engine beyond possibility of rebuild, transmission, u-joints and possibly rear end (that is what happened to me at 55 mph). That is a common engine also used in the Cherokees and Grand Cherokees. Good LuckAlso, if it becomes a catastrophic failure (rod through the side of the block) a reman company probably won't give you credit for the core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Sounds like a spun bearing/rodYup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 If they have them - Complete engine from Pick-N-Pull down on Groveport Rd. will usually be under $400 with a 30 day warranty (unless they changed warranty recently) Look for a stock suspension cherokee or grand cherokee that was T-Boned - hit in the side (odds are that it was running/being driven when wrecked) Note: the Cherokees are usually urban vehicles that see mild use as opposed to wranglers the get more offroad time.$400!?!?!? They used to be $99!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhaag Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Bizmarkey>emminem+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Check power steering pump mount and hardware for tightness. Known source of rapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kritz Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Surprised nobody's mentioned" piston slap" as a possibility. There's quite a few topics on google about the 4.0 having this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) Can you pull the oil pan and check the bearings?Last time I heard this is was a spun bearing, confirmed by pulling the oil pan and feeling the slop on the rod. Pulled the end cap and found the bearing was smooshed down to paper-thin. Used engine was 400. Edited February 1, 2012 by Scruit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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