oldschoolsdime92 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Just like the title says. I'm debating swapping to HID . School me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Do it if your looking for more light.I've seen some that are as bright as the sun,almost blinding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serpentracer Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 too much drain on the charging circuit for a bike. most guys I've seen with them are buying batteries every summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 ^^then they hooked them up wrong of have cheap kits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDBGoalie Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 HID run at 35W, standard Halogens run at 55W or more. The only time HIDs draw extra current is during start-up of the arc.Halogens put out ~1300lm, vs 3200lm from a 4200K HID system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Word of caution... once you have them you will never want to be without them again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSparky Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 HID run at 35W, standard Halogens run at 55W or more. The only time HIDs draw extra current is during start-up of the arc.qft.I love my bi-xenon projectors. it's the same output, but on low beam a shroud gets in the way and blocks the beam that refracts up. Did I say I love them?Besides helping me see, They give me a lot of visibility TO other drivers. That is what I like. But, they may piss some people off. idk if you saw my "dick" thread, I'm debating to lower my angle a bit, because I get flashed occasionally. I reccommend you don't go cheap. If shit breaks, burns out, or a ballast doesn't work, or a solenoid gets stuck, you don't want to buy a new one. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ I bought from them, and they have great support. They helped me figure out the wiring too. It can be a pain to make it all fit, though. The hassle, money, and mean looks are worth it. Do it. Especially if you are a daily commuter. Imo, it really does increase your chance of being seen, and not ran over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 One kit in particular I was looking at mentioned that a switch was provided for high and low beams, which in my mind renders my oem switch useless. I don't like that idea. I like everything to function as if it came that way. Can anyone elaborate on this? Ive heard some guys mention they don't need high beams bc the lows are so bright, but once again then a feature from the factory is no longer available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) I order all my HID items from the retrofit source, yes there are cheaper items out there but I prefer quality items over cheap eBay stuff (and they lived next door to me and wanted to help me out)I had converted my halogen lights to projector fittings with HID which provides a much better focused light than just swapping the bulbs. Compare an HID halogen to an HID projector and you'll notice a major difference. All functions stayed the same with the kit I had, operated the hi/lo through the OEM switch assembly with no additional switches. Normal function on the current R6 is one side is a dedicated low, the other a dedicated high. The retrofit source provided a relay harness that allowed both to be on at the same time with either both lo or both hi. This is the only function that changed from OEM at my request. Edited August 30, 2012 by natedogg624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I was looking at ddm-tuning. Apparently its just cheap kits that work this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I had HID's from ddm in my zx14 always worked for me was simple plug and play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attentiongetter92 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Just don't be a faggot and run them without the proper housing set ups. Nothing makes me madder then getting blinded because some dick was a cheap ass(I.e. My sisters bf) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I'm not sure my sexual preference had anything to do with my headlights.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrown57 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7C0vd-L5lg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wht_scorpion Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Go with the 35watt HID kit plug and play Dont go any higher then 5000k blubs the high you go with the blub rating 4000k to 10000k their color changes. flea bay has some good deals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attentiongetter92 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Thank you sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) I had HID's from ddm in my zx14 always worked for me was simple plug and playI have had 3 sets from them and have nothing but good things to say about them.Just don't be a faggot and run them without the proper housing set ups. Nothing makes me madder then getting blinded because some dick was a cheap ass(I.e. My sisters bf)THIS! Projectors are the ONLY thing you should be putting these in. Hence why my Daytona has Silver stars and not HIDs.Go with the 35watt HID kit plug and play Dont go any higher then 5000k blubs the high you go with the blub rating 4000k to 10000k their color changes. flea bay has some good deals.Also this! I laugh when I pull up to someone at night who cant see 5 feet in front of them with 10000k+ bulbs where my 5000ks in the Mazda shine a quarter mile down the road. 4300k is the most usable light you can get from HIDs, anything higher and you go down in visibility substantially. If you want a pure white light 4300-5000 is what you want. Slightly blue and you want 6000k. I would not go any more than that though. Edited August 30, 2012 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashweights Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 +1 on the 35W DDMs. I have had a set in my R6 for going on 4 years now and they still work great. Bought another set for my Legacy this year and have zero regrets. I have 6000k and 4500k and much prefer the 4500k white.That being said, BOTH of my vehicles have projection housing with adjusted cutoffs. Please do not use in reflector housings, just step up to higher-output halogens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 +1 on 35W DDM's. I have 35W 6000k on the bike and used to have 55W 5000k in the car. I only took the ones out of the car because my friend thought it would be a good idea to clip my cut-off shields (not with my permission) and I got pulled over for it on the East Side of Cleveland (because god knows cops on the EAST side of Cleveland have nothing better to do than pull over an asian kid with HID's.) /sarcasm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Well, I'm against the idea of cooking my headlight housing and taking it apart in order to put a projector housing in, so It sounds like I am out on this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) Well, I'm against the idea of cooking my headlight housing and taking it apart in order to put a projector housing in, so It sounds like I am out on this project.I'm running the Sylvania SilverStar H4ST which fits my Honda.Standard fit halogen bulb to replace stock. 76 candela, which is about 955 lumens.Way brighter than stock and whiter at 4000k, and easy at 10-20 bucks.I get the impression that the equivalent GE NightHawk bulb is crap.Also adding small new high tech - high power LED lights that each equal the output of the headlight. Not cheap, but lots of light at very low current draw. Around one amp each (10-15 watts vs 35-60 watts). The future is here. Might even do a second pair for "fog lamps", they are so small. LED setups make a lot of claims about output, and most are not more than daylight marking lights or dress up. A couple of brands are real headlights. None are legally acceptable yet as replacements for the original headlight. Only as auxiliary add-ons.I always recommend carrying a spare headlight bulb. Wrapped up inside the headlight bucket is a good place to store it. Edited September 1, 2012 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 I'm currently running Led running lights and silverstars. Seems to be a good combo. I just need to adjust my beam height on my headlights. Whats the best distance to adjust from, and how high should they be ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldschoolsdime92 Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Heres an oem and a silverstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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