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HIDs- give me the good and the bad


oldschoolsdime92

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HID run at 35W, standard Halogens run at 55W or more. The only time HIDs draw extra current is during start-up of the arc.

qft.

I love my bi-xenon projectors. it's the same output, but on low beam a shroud gets in the way and blocks the beam that refracts up. Did I say I love them?

Besides helping me see, They give me a lot of visibility TO other drivers. That is what I like. But, they may piss some people off. idk if you saw my "dick" thread, I'm debating to lower my angle a bit, because I get flashed occasionally.

I reccommend you don't go cheap. If shit breaks, burns out, or a ballast doesn't work, or a solenoid gets stuck, you don't want to buy a new one. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ I bought from them, and they have great support. They helped me figure out the wiring too. It can be a pain to make it all fit, though.

The hassle, money, and mean looks are worth it. Do it. Especially if you are a daily commuter. Imo, it really does increase your chance of being seen, and not ran over.

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One kit in particular I was looking at mentioned that a switch was provided for high and low beams, which in my mind renders my oem switch useless. I don't like that idea. I like everything to function as if it came that way. Can anyone elaborate on this? Ive heard some guys mention they don't need high beams bc the lows are so bright, but once again then a feature from the factory is no longer available.

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I order all my HID items from the retrofit source, yes there are cheaper items out there but I prefer quality items over cheap eBay stuff (and they lived next door to me and wanted to help me out)

I had converted my halogen lights to projector fittings with HID which provides a much better focused light than just swapping the bulbs. Compare an HID halogen to an HID projector and you'll notice a major difference.

All functions stayed the same with the kit I had, operated the hi/lo through the OEM switch assembly with no additional switches. Normal function on the current R6 is one side is a dedicated low, the other a dedicated high. The retrofit source provided a relay harness that allowed both to be on at the same time with either both lo or both hi. This is the only function that changed from OEM at my request.

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Edited by natedogg624
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I had HID's from ddm in my zx14 always worked for me was simple plug and play

I have had 3 sets from them and have nothing but good things to say about them.

Just don't be a faggot and run them without the proper housing set ups. Nothing makes me madder then getting blinded because some dick was a cheap ass(I.e. My sisters bf)

THIS! Projectors are the ONLY thing you should be putting these in. Hence why my Daytona has Silver stars and not HIDs.

Go with the 35watt HID kit plug and play Dont go any higher then 5000k blubs the high you go with the blub rating 4000k to 10000k their color changes. flea bay has some good deals.

Also this! I laugh when I pull up to someone at night who cant see 5 feet in front of them with 10000k+ bulbs where my 5000ks in the Mazda shine a quarter mile down the road. 4300k is the most usable light you can get from HIDs, anything higher and you go down in visibility substantially. If you want a pure white light 4300-5000 is what you want. Slightly blue and you want 6000k. I would not go any more than that though.

Edited by JStump
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+1 on the 35W DDMs. I have had a set in my R6 for going on 4 years now and they still work great. Bought another set for my Legacy this year and have zero regrets. I have 6000k and 4500k and much prefer the 4500k white.

That being said, BOTH of my vehicles have projection housing with adjusted cutoffs. Please do not use in reflector housings, just step up to higher-output halogens.

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+1 on 35W DDM's. I have 35W 6000k on the bike and used to have 55W 5000k in the car. I only took the ones out of the car because my friend thought it would be a good idea to clip my cut-off shields (not with my permission) and I got pulled over for it on the East Side of Cleveland (because god knows cops on the EAST side of Cleveland have nothing better to do than pull over an asian kid with HID's.) /sarcasm

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Well, I'm against the idea of cooking my headlight housing and taking it apart in order to put a projector housing in, so It sounds like I am out on this project.

I'm running the Sylvania SilverStar H4ST which fits my Honda.

Standard fit halogen bulb to replace stock. 76 candela, which is about 955 lumens.

Way brighter than stock and whiter at 4000k, and easy at 10-20 bucks.

I get the impression that the equivalent GE NightHawk bulb is crap.

Also adding small new high tech - high power LED lights that each equal the output of the headlight. Not cheap, but lots of light at very low current draw. Around one amp each (10-15 watts vs 35-60 watts). The future is here. Might even do a second pair for "fog lamps", they are so small. LED setups make a lot of claims about output, and most are not more than daylight marking lights or dress up. A couple of brands are real headlights. None are legally acceptable yet as replacements for the original headlight. Only as auxiliary add-ons.

I always recommend carrying a spare headlight bulb. Wrapped up inside the headlight bucket is a good place to store it.

Edited by ReconRat
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