donkason Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 My D211 GPA Dunlops are about smoked. They have 5 track days on them. They aren't known for their longevity. I really like them, but DAMN are they expensive and I don't think I'm fast enough to justify that much tire. I have to respring and service my shock and forks and cheaper tires would help a lot. I got timed by my buddy during a session and clipped a 1:46 at Mid-Ohio for a reference point. I'm looking at the Bridgestone BT003rs and the Michelin Power Pure. The pure has light tire technology that interest me and the Bstones are dirt cheap with descent reviews. The GPA's were confidence inspiring and I don't want to step back too far and lose that feeling.This will be for a 07 Gixxer 750 that's a dedicated track bike. Let me know what you guys think about the 2 choices above and if there are any suggestions I would greatly appreciate the input. Also, is there a good hookup for tires anybody could pass along? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Those are 2 different types of tires fyi.I have only ran the pures of the two you listed, they are nice but don't like temps below 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVTPilot Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I have the 003rs' on my 06 gixxer 600 and am rather impressed with them. I've ran them at MidOH and Nelson and am impressed with their grip. They usually are sufficiently warmed up in the first couple laps and give solid feedback. From a price perspective you can't go wrong. I have not run the Pures, but not heard anything bad about them. Craig right there can speak better as to their performance. If you are looking at the Pures and feel comfortable in that price range, you might check out the Pirelli Corsa Rosso. r1crusher runs them and raves about them, and I think they are in line with the cost of a set of Pures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I've had a set of BT003R's but didn't last long, but you're not putting these on a hypersport. Probably last as far as your GPA's did. I hear Q2's are great and fairly inexpensive too. I have a new set of Q2's, but I've no tracktime to substantiate this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Not sure how the GPAs are too expensive. They retail out at $399 a set in the newest compounds. The Bridgestones you mention are not a race tire and while probably OK, are about $100 cheaper a set, but you'll lack the performance...The Pures are also not a race tire and again, lacking performance of the GPAs and about the same in price as the Stones.My opinion? You getting 5 track days out of a race tire is amazingly good. Not sure how they can wear longer than that when a full blown race tire. 1:46s will allow them to last longer and will be best if you have warmers and do not allow to cycle as often. But, typically speaking, 5 track days is a good bit of time on a race tire...My opinion? $100 more gets you a better tire and a better performance tire for the track. You will be getting faster and with a 750 and the wear it places on the rear, you really won't get the street/track type tires to last much longer. So, you'll save $100, but it will not perform as well... All in what you want from a tire.Why not consider the Q2s if wanting a street/track tire? We were doing 36s on stock RC8s on Q2s recently... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Not sure how the GPAs are too expensive. They retail out at $399 a set in the newest compounds. The Bridgestones you mention are not a race tire and while probably OK, are about $100 cheaper a set, but you'll lack the performance...The Pures are also not a race tire and again, lacking performance of the GPAs and about the same in price as the Stones.My opinion? You getting 5 track days out of a race tire is amazingly good. Not sure how they can wear longer than that when a full blown race tire. 1:46s will allow them to last longer and will be best if you have warmers and do not allow to cycle as often. But, typically speaking, 5 track days is a good bit of time on a race tire...My opinion? $100 more gets you a better tire and a better performance tire for the track. You will be getting faster and with a 750 and the wear it places on the rear, you really won't get the street/track type tires to last much longer. So, you'll save $100, but it will not perform as well... All in what you want from a tire.Why not consider the Q2s if wanting a street/track tire? We were doing 36s on stock RC8s on Q2s recently...Good food for thought. What I'm looking for is a tire that won't break my wallet and give me some traction. Bottom line, I'd spend the extra money on GPA's as they are wonderful tires, but if I can find something more reasonable that's would keep me stuck to the track at my pace I'm game. This is my first time replacing track tires so I'm a noob. So the Q2's would be your pick? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candybluzx6 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I just got a set of q2s and ran them sunday. They r amazing big step up from the Bstones. I was also in the :46s and no hint of slipping plus got more lean angle and still have room left to go on the side. I cant say enough about them lol. I am now a dunlop guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I could be wrong but Mykill had a set of Q2's they had less than 1 day on them from Jennings.... I'd message himm, I think he wanted something stupid cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 If you like the 211's but are spending a fortune on them, try a 211 front and a Q2 rear.I'd consider running the rear warmer on "low" if you have dual temps, or just waiting to plug in the rear warmer until 5 minutes before your session, then give it a lap to get all teh way warmed up.If that's not appealing (and I suspect Brian won't like the idea of running a warmer on a Q2, although I know people who do so) talk to Brandon about the BT003 race tires.I believe the RS is the "race street" compound, and is NOT the actual DOT race tire desinged for use with warmers. At the beginning of the season Brandon quoted me a good price on the race version that was considerably cheaper than 211's.But as others have said, 5 days on a rear is pretty good... You can flip the tire and maybe get 1 or 2 more days. I know some people have a problem with that as well. Just inspect your tires often, and you should notice any potential problem long before it's an issue on track. Lots of people flip 211 rears.I haven't been to mid-ohio in a few years (riding anway), but I believe I was doing :39's on Q2's last time I was there, and I know I was doing consistent 1:05's at BeaveRun on Q2's.So you're good up to a slow/medium Advanced pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1crusher Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Not sure how the GPAs are too expensive. They retail out at $399 a set in the newest compounds. The Bridgestones you mention are not a race tire and while probably OK, are about $100 cheaper a set, but you'll lack the performance...The Pures are also not a race tire and again, lacking performance of the GPAs and about the same in price as the Stones.My opinion? You getting 5 track days out of a race tire is amazingly good. Not sure how they can wear longer than that when a full blown race tire. 1:46s will allow them to last longer and will be best if you have warmers and do not allow to cycle as often. But, typically speaking, 5 track days is a good bit of time on a race tire...My opinion? $100 more gets you a better tire and a better performance tire for the track. You will be getting faster and with a 750 and the wear it places on the rear, you really won't get the street/track type tires to last much longer. So, you'll save $100, but it will not perform as well... All in what you want from a tire.Why not consider the Q2s if wanting a street/track tire? We were doing 36s on stock RC8s on Q2s recently...This brings back that discussion we had before about being able to fully use a race tire given someones ability and skill. I'm running Corsa Rosso tires and run just little faster times than donkason at Mid-O, :43's. Beaver is very low teens, :10s-11's and maybe a :09 on good lap. I love these tires and they feel like they can give more but I'm just not to a point of really pushing these tires it seems. I guess I just need to pick up a set of full on race tires and give them a try at some point and see if they inspire me any more than a track day oriented tire. That is after I get a generator and warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I could be wrong but Mykill had a set of Q2's they had less than 1 day on them from Jennings.... I'd message himm, I think he wanted something stupid cheap too.Jennings is very hard on tires. Think Putnam. But, if he roasted a set in one day, it was setup rather than the tire. We ran the RC8s down at Jennings and I rode one for the whole day prior and even the mock race. We then had the bikes all day with dealers riding and the tires were fine.Setup in the wrong direction and you'll kill a tire faster than anything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I know people have used a set of warmers on Q2s, but if you do, you are bringing the tire to temp quickly and then going out and getting them hotter. The basis of a street based track tire is that street compounds are designed to come to temp faster. You take off out of the driveway, and the street tire comes to temp faster than say you had a race tire on.Go out on a race DOT and then a street DOT. Takes more laps to get the race to temp or you have a loose feeling in the rear. Both no warmers. But, you put a warmer on a race tire and you can hit it running. May need a sight lap to get it really going, but overall, quick and easy to run fast laps.I will contest the idea of warmers on street based tires all day long. Again, come to Mid-Ohio and run the pace we are on DOTs and see what we are doing to prep them. My prep is as follow... 1) turn on ignition. 2) put bike in gear. 3) run laps. No warmers, nothing. We even had two with GPA rears and zero warmers. Two laps in and you were golden... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Mid-O, :43's.When did this happen, you were doing 50's when I was with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongDogRacing Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 here's the deal Donka: Try Everything!I understand that there are price points associated with this hobby. Personally, I'm a michelin guy, but I only came to that conclusion after trying the range of products from all manufacturers (from sport tires to the full-on race tires). if you are running :46's at mid-oh, then you have room to grow and plenty of opportunity to give different tires a try. if anything, you'll learn more about how tire profile and construction effects your motorcycle setup.my recommendation? give the Power Pure's a try. $248 shipped to your door from sportbiketireservice.com... set in the morning at 32psi front, and 30psi rear. check for those pressures again before going out after lunch and you'll be golden.let us know what you decide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1crusher Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 When did this happen, you were doing 50's when I was with you.You're right...I'm wrong. I can say it. I meant :53's. Timer doesn't lie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 here's the deal Donka: Try Everything!I understand that there are price points associated with this hobby. Personally, I'm a michelin guy, but I only came to that conclusion after trying the range of products from all manufacturers (from sport tires to the full-on race tires). if you are running :46's at mid-oh, then you have room to grow and plenty of opportunity to give different tires a try. if anything, you'll learn more about how tire profile and construction effects your motorcycle setup.my recommendation? give the Power Pure's a try. $248 shipped to your door from sportbiketireservice.com... set in the morning at 32psi front, and 30psi rear. check for those pressures again before going out after lunch and you'll be golden.let us know what you decide!I am also interested in trying some different tires out and mixing things up. Through my internet digging I found these and I am very interested. http://canyonchasers.net/reviews/tires/pirelli-redstripe.phpYes it is likely faster than I can ride and as expensive as the Dunlops I currently run, but they brag on longevity and being able to run up to 1500 miles of track time. I would run through almost 3 sets of GP-A's at that mileage. Anybody have a word on these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Looked into d-208 gp's? My tl came with a set and I was impressed with how sticky they are. Need a few miles to warm up and they don't like cold concrete, not sure what they cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Looked into d-208 gp's? My tl came with a set and I was impressed with how sticky they are. Need a few miles to warm up and they don't like cold concrete, not sure what they cost.I looked at those too. They are praised but do wear out quickly on a track. Seems that the consensus is they need swapped after 2 track days at a good pace. I'm trying to be thrifty as I've dropped enough $$$ on bike stuff this year for my wife to have a reason to make me sleep in the garage. Plus we are expecting a baby girl in February I ordered a pair of the Diablo Slicks mentioned above. They are aimed at track day riders that are quicker than a sport tire but don't need a full race tire. Plus the soft carcass with harder rubber gives it mileage, and they are designed to not need warmers!!! The downside is some sacrifice on heavy lean angle and throttle. They get a bit twitchy there but that could help me learn to carry corner speed and not try to throttle out of a crappy turn. I'll be sure to post an update after my September run at Mid-O with these new shoes on. Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidersDiscount Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Other thing to consider when changing tires/brands is that you're changing geometry as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Other thing to consider when changing tires/brands is that you're changing geometry as well.Should I get the actual height of the tires and compare the two then shim my rear if there is a difference? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Should I get the actual height of the tires and compare the two then shim my rear if there is a difference? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2The real question is if you had the proper setup before you swapped brands... If you do not have fork extenders and adjustable rear ride height, doubt you were where you needed to be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted September 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 The real question is if you had the proper setup before you swapped brands... If you do not have fork extenders and adjustable rear ride height, doubt you were where you needed to be...Which brings up a good question, where do I need to be? I've shimmed the rear up 5mm and flushed the forks to the triple trees. This was the consensus on several forums as a baseline start point for the 06-07 600/750. It seems to me adjustments are made given the bikes behaviour and feedback. The problem is I'm not experienced enough to be effective at that aspect yet. At best I played tire reader and got my adjustments to the point my tire was looking and wearing well. It also felt like it handled well, but again I don't have a good feel. Past that I'm a bit hazy. Should I keep riding until I get it and adjust or go to a professional and let them play with it? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubguy85 Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Jennings is very hard on tires. Think Putnam. But, if he roasted a set in one day, it was setup rather than the tire. We ran the RC8s down at Jennings and I rode one for the whole day prior and even the mock race. We then had the bikes all day with dealers riding and the tires were fine.Setup in the wrong direction and you'll kill a tire faster than anything...U missed the point of the post. He is saying that my kill has a set for sale that only have 1 day on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubguy85 Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 My D211 GPA Dunlops are about smoked. They have 5 track days on them. They aren't known for their longevity. I really like them, but DAMN are they expensive and I don't think I'm fast enough to justify that much tire. I have to respring and service my shock and forks and cheaper tires would help a lot. I got timed by my buddy during a session and clipped a 1:46 at Mid-Ohio for a reference point. I'm looking at the Bridgestone BT003rs and the Michelin Power Pure. The pure has light tire technology that interest me and the Bstones are dirt cheap with descent reviews. The GPA's were confidence inspiring and I don't want to step back too far and lose that feeling.This will be for a 07 Gixxer 750 that's a dedicated track bike. Let me know what you guys think about the 2 choices above and if there are any suggestions I would greatly appreciate the input. Also, is there a good hookup for tires anybody could pass along? Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2I'd try q2s. I've seen people fly on them... However u won't feel the grip like u do on the gpa. I've seen a set of q2 for as cheap as 200 a set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongDogRacing Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Should I keep riding until I get it and adjust or go to a professional and let them play with it? i'll be honest, the best money i ever spent (on motorcycles) was for a GMD Computrac measurement and tune. after that setup, the bike (SV650) was rock solid and ended up winning me a championship.without that setup, i would likely have never gotten it right. i could have twiddled knobs and adjusted geometry until i was blue in the face. i could have drudged through the forums making adjustments that other racers recommended. but, all those recommendations are setup specifically for them.by paying a pro, you will get the personalized service and advice that will help you get faster. plain and simple.the following approach worked for me: trust the expert tuners. BUT, do your own research and understand the method and science behind geometry, damping, and springs. also, work on describing your handling symptoms to your tuner, as well as understanding the jargon. (for example, when talking about damping with your tuner, they will likely want to talk in terms of "fast" or "slow", as opposed to "hard" or "soft") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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