Diagnose my car

[RSparky]

I'll give you as much of the history as i know:

91 prelude. B21A1 engine. the predecessor to vtec.

don bought it, being sold because "one day it wouldn't start."

Their story was they replaced the timing belt, and it ran after up until one day it wouldn't start.

Don figured out they lied, because when the timing belt breaks, the piston goes up and smacks a valve. After much beating around the bush, he took the top off, and found the bent valve. replaced it and the car ran fine.

He drove it for a couple months and sold it to me, so he could get another project. He's a one man shop. I've had it since last winter. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, and slowly oozes hydraulic fluid (brake) out of the piston under the pedal. It's a thirsty car. But, keep it full, and it ran fine. It also had a vibration tick right around 1900-2300 rpm.

Yesterday, I decided to drive it to school. (I make sure to get at least 50 miles a week in the summer. Learned the hard way by letting the previous car sit all summer.) 16 miles on the highway, I get off the exit, and stop at the light, slightly leaning back. The oil light comes on, and the revs bog. First time the oil light has came on. I knew it was leaking before I bought it, and have been vigilant about it. I rev a little to keep it going and the light goes off. So, it's pressure or voltage. I get the half mile to school, go in, do my thing, let the car cool down, and come out.

Check oil, and it was slightly low. Parked on a slight backward lean, so it read lower than it was. I put in enough to get to the top dot. Started it warmed it up, and it seemed fine. Highway to next destination, 8 miles away.

Get off the highway, come to a light, and it bogs to stall. Oil light came on before dying. I get it to a parking lot, check oil, and it's full. The 2k rpm tick has spread out now and gets a little louder over 3k. I limp to my destination, do my business there, and check the oil again. Not cold, but not hot. Oil is fine.

I head home, and get about halfway there when the car lurches forward, loses power, the tick became a rumble, and I shit my pants. It goes, but it's loud and weak. Hazards on, I limp off the next exit, and sit.

Call Don, and he is luckily in the area. He has me start it and clang to a parking lot. He has a few hypothesis, most likely being a rod, but says the engine shouldn't move as well as it does. He said he'd ask around today, so I'm waiting.

Any ideas from the peanut gallery?

Edited September 15, 2012 by RSparky

[Hoblick]

Aids

[snot]

TPS sensor? Does the engine light come on? If not more than likely its mechanical

Either way you should also fix the leaks.

[chevysoldier]

Kill it with fire.

[OsuMj]

Hwilli says --

91 prelude

Found your problem.

In all seriousness, it sounds like you lost a rod bearing.--

[jester3681]

Yeah, if the oil level is up, that light means only one other thing - oil pressure. If your pressure is low, that's bad. Really bad on a car that old. You may need a new motor or some major repairs...

[QuikAccord]

Sounds like you lost a rod. The car lurched forward because the engine tried to lock up. But something gave and broke. Oil light came on because as it tried to lock up you lost probably almost all oil pressure.

[ReconRat]

If you look inside the valve cover through the oil filler cap when running, and it's throwing oil around, you probably don't have any problem with oil pressure or quantity. Which would mean the light came on from low idle. The low idle is from one of the cylinders crapping out. Add in a ticking sound and that might be something in the valve train. A ticking sound can be a rod, but that would more likely sound like a steady heavy knock. More like a hit from a ball peen hammer.

Do a compression test to find a bad cylinder. (Or the screwdriver/stethoscope trick to locate noise.) If none or not up top, then worry about rod and piston bearings. If finding a bad cylinder/noise up top, pull valve cover and see if the obvious can be found. Broken or loose lifter, rocker, spring or pivot shaft. Carefully check them all. Those you might fix without pulling the head.

Best guess is the last thing worked on. The cylinder head and it's parts.

[RSparky]

I'm pretty sure it's a combination of broke. The valve was the last thing replaced. But that noise now is louder than that. It's a rod or something of similar mass.

[ReconRat]

I'm pretty sure it's a combination of broke. The valve was the last thing replaced. But that noise now is louder than that. It's a rod or something of similar mass.

If it's bottom end, there's not much choice. Pull engine, pull oil pan, remove crankshaft, rods and pistons. Inspect and repair.

[jporter12]

Stick a fork in it, it's done!

[TSB67]

Does it sound like it's running on 3 cylinders or 4? You may have broken a rod, oil starvation will do it if that was really an issue. I've had the piston hang in the top of the bore clear of total catastrophe before. At least until I knocked it down into the crankcase with a 3/8 extension through the spark plug hole and told the guy he'd better not try to start it again.

[RSparky]

until I knocked it down into the crankcase with a 3/8 extension through the spark plug hole and told the guy he'd better not try to start it again.

winning. it starts.

seriously though, it sounds like it's running on a sledgehammer and an anvil.

[Bubba]

Doubt seriously that you threw a rod. That's usually a catastrophic event that grenades the engine. With the low oil pressure light on at idle (when hot) and the knocking you describe, I'd bet one or more of your main bearings is shot and has spun in the crank web. Whatever it is, it sounds terminal unless you can do the work yourself or have a REALLY good bud who does major repairs cheap! Might be easier to pull and replace the entire engine if you can find a used one on Ebay or CL.

If the body/interior isn't super clean/mint and low-mileage-perfect (other than the motor), I'd be tempted to cut my losses and look for a new cage.

[RSparky]

So, dad and brother say it sounds like it's top end. Valve cover is off... Anyone work on hondas here?

[Brownsfan1]

So, dad and brother say it sounds like it's top end. Valve cover is off... Anyone work on hondas here?

What do you need to know?

[mello dude]

I'm a used Honda car guy and use Acu/Hon Specialities,311 North Main in downtown Miamisburg. 937-866-3777

Gary is a one man shop and Acura and Honda is all he works on. Does a good job and fair prices. He uses an answering machine, but the best way to get going with him is to stop in a minute to setup an appintment. He stays busy. -- (I hate working on cars anymore so I flip stuff to him and stick to working on my bikes)

Edited September 21, 2012 by mello dude