Chain/chain tool choice OK?

[modular]

I am going to go to a 15/45 drivetrain on my '04 Honda 599. Stock is 15/42 with a 110 link 525 chain. I will be staying with a 525 chain and replacing the sprockets with steel JT Sprocket units. My chain and chain tool choice is as follows:

Chain: EK Chain 525SRX X-Ring 120 link in a natural finish- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WK6D86/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A1ONN4W7TBXNWO

Chain Tool: BikeMaster Heavy-Duty Chain Breaker/Rivet Tool- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ3LPU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A36ZNJ2D0VV9LR

Good choice on the 2 above items?

[Tonik]

If you have or can borrow a dremmel you don't need a chain breaker. And a dremmel is much easier if you are not trying to save the chain. And I am a very big fan of these types of master links. The shaft is real long....you mash the rivet by screwing a nut down that shaft then snap the shaft off.

http://www.proud2ridemotorcycles.com/21-01077.html

Of course I am a bigge fan of shaft drive.

[modular]

That is a nice alternative to the chain tool. Thanks for that! I had planned on cutting my old chain off with my Dremel anywho.

Edited January 10, 2013 by modular

[Tonik]

Didn't mean to imply that exact one, it was just the first example I found. I think this one is it?

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/889251-ek-chain-525mvxz-slj-chains-screw-connecting-link#

Gotta hit the dropdown box and select the 525 SRX type.

[modular]

Yup, found it on Amazon as well.

[modular]

I think I'll try the screw link and with the money saved on not buying the chain tool I'll upgrade the EK chain to the MVXZ version and still be ahead of the game.

[Tonik]

I think I'll try the screw link and with the money saved on not buying the chain tool I'll upgrade the EK chain to the MVXZ version and still be ahead of the game.

I hate chain tools. They are such a PITA. I think you are making a good choice. Shortly there will others along that will flame me and say those links suck.

This will become an oil thread by lunchtime.

[conn-e-rot]

I have a chain tool I could throw in a priority box if you want to use it and then just send it back. It does have one pin broke and I haven't got around to replacing it but your welcome to use it.

[CephasGT]

DID chain tool FTMFW. Thing is lightyears better than the two broken Motion Pros it replaced.

[RidersDiscount]

I can help with whatever you decide.

[modular]

Nathan, PM me your pricing on the following items:

1) JT Sprockets P/N JTF1371.15 15T steel front sprocket

2) EK Chains 525SRX 120 link natural finish

3) EK 525SRX-SLJ Screw Rivet Link

These parts are going on a 2004 Honda 599 (CB600f Hornet)

[RidersDiscount]

You have a PM.

[Tonik]

Nathan, PM me your pricing on the following items:

1) JT Sprockets P/N JTF1371.15 15T steel front sprocket

2) EK Chains 525SRX 120 link natural finish

3) EK 525SRX-SLJ Screw Rivet Link

These parts are going on a 2004 Honda 599 (CB600f Hornet)

Did you forget the rear sprocket? Just trying to be helpful......

[modular]

Nope, I have a new JT 45 tooth sprocket in the gee-rag. I was going to just use the rear sprocket but the bike has 10K on it. Between the mileage and the fact that it would shorten then wheel base and in turn effect the leverage applied to the rear shock I am just replacing it all and doing it right.

[fox_racing_guy]

Don't forget to break the front sprocket nut loose before breaking your old chain.

[modular]

What, you mean I can't just put it in gear and apply all that force to the trans?? LOL.

[CephasGT]

The force on the trans isn't the problem, it's just that the motor will turn if you push hard enough to loosen the nut.

[jschaf]

I just used my new RK chain tool yesterday for the first time to install a 520 EK ZZZ chain on my RR. It did the job as advertised. The instructions were rather vague on how far to flare the ends of the pins. After some Internet digging I found that EK recommends flaring the pins to .224" to .236" for optimum function. The pins are .212" from the factory. Just thought I'd share this little tidbit of information.

[ReconRat]

Chain good, tool good. Grind the rivet heads off the old master link before trying to push the pins out. Otherwise possible to break or bend the tool. I wouldn't use grinder to cut chain. Although it sounds about the same amount of work either way.

I don't like aftermarket front sprockets. The stock sprocket has rubber dampeners, that kill a LOT of vibration. I'm putting a stock back on. Gearing changes should be done with rear sprockets, not front. Not that I haven't re-geared a bunch of front sprockets, I'm just not going to do that much anymore.

That alternative master link is interesting. It looks like a good carry spare for on the road. Rather than a clip link. It's not hard to squish the new link rivet on the regular master link. Just make sure it's the right master link for the chain/tool. Both in hardness and design. Some chains use special master links. And one even says use a special matching tool.

edit: not all master links are the same. I wish there was an exact specification, but the pin and fit is slightly different on some of them. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't work worth a darn.

Edited March 17, 2013 by ReconRat