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Who has built there own house? Looking for tips.


chevysoldier

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I'll settle for 2-5 acres but have found land to be cheap/acre in certain areas of Central/Eastern Washington, Montana, New Mexico, Arizona, and West Texas.

I can't say the same for Ohio, though, but I'm actively searching almost daily.

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I don't know dick about building houses, but I can tell you that if you're looking to do a new construction, run multiple CAT5 (CAT6 if you're feeling frisky) to at least every room in the house, and at least 2 runs per panel. Wireless is a wonderful thing, but RF can get pretty spotty in a house sometimes. Wired networking is easy-peasy.

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I don't know dick about building houses, but I can tell you that if you're looking to do a new construction, run multiple CAT5 (CAT6 if you're feeling frisky) to at least every room in the house, and at least 2 runs per panel. Wireless is a wonderful thing, but RF can get pretty spotty in a house sometimes. Wired networking is easy-peasy.

when i finish my basement, im running cat 5, 6, fibre channel, monster wire, woven unicorn pubes and all sorts of crap. who knows what will be the wave of the future. i just don't wanna tear out the wall again.

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I don't know dick about building houses, but I can tell you that if you're looking to do a new construction, run multiple CAT5 (CAT6 if you're feeling frisky) to at least every room in the house, and at least 2 runs per panel. Wireless is a wonderful thing, but RF can get pretty spotty in a house sometimes. Wired networking is easy-peasy.

Great suggestion. Speaker wires too. I have also run a couple of 2 inch PVC sch 40 pipe from the basement up to the attic on 2 stories too. Nice chases for running wires at some later date.

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High ceilings in the basement which the basement is a must have.

Quit claim deed the property over now but you'll need it surveyed to seperate. Then everyone's property taxes change. Hopefully, your parents property if on CAUV, does not fall off.

Had a big bank barn torn down 3 years ago at my place. They paid me $2200, so you probably aren't going to get rich off of it. Type of wood and siding changes things. If you do it, be ready for a mess. should try and line up buyers for the wood first to help you decide which route to go. And watch it Some of those barn guys are con-artists. if you go that route get a good contract covering start to finish. It's kinda like the old, SAVE Your roof slates their worth money, ya right, only if you can find that niche buyer. And the barn stones, worth keeping around for future projects, steps, walls, fire pits, if they don't offer enough money.

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A lot of good info in here. Thanks for the responses. Went today with my parents to the log and timber show at the Cbus fairgrounds today. Got quite a it of good info. Can't remember the dry-in costs but the turn key prices were $115 to $175 rough estimates. That for a basic, decent house. Some of the kits were as low as $35k and had most of the features I want/like. I was also told that eliminating extra corners and just keeping to a square/rectangular structure will eliminate quite a bit of money.

Now if I could swing it, I'd love this house but I'm probably dreaming too big. lol

http://www.homeplans.com/plan-detail/HOMEPW12782/three-bedroom-craftsman

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GRL116-LVL1-LI-BL-LG.GIF

My parents built and they always regretted not having a bigger basement for two reasons; space is always a premium in a house and its nice to have extra room that is easily accessible (ie. not an attic), and two was that there is a very noticeable temperature difference between where the basement ends and the slab begins in the winter time. I can't help with basement vs no basement, but if you are doing one then do the whole house. People also frequently run out of breaker openings in their panel, so make sure your electric is set up right from the start; it would be cheaper to have a sub panel, backup genny etc. installed during building then instead of later.

I think the biggest thing is to visit your house being put up frequently. There will inevitably be people trying to skimp out or do things against code/without a permit/against your wishes and it is better to catch those things earlier. Some builders have an option where you can get a discount if you don't visit during the process, I would not recommend doing that.

You all probably right about the extra space becoming very valuable as a home owner. I'd rather be able to afford to build my home now and maybe forgo some "luxuries" but maybe a basement would be worth the extra money, especially if it isn't all that much more. I really just assumed digging and putting the walls would be a good chunk more money. I'll definitely look into the costs.

I would love a back up generator, never thought about getting a panel that will allow me to expand and already be set up for the future stuff. Good call.

I would absolutely be visiting very often. As someone else pointed out, I really don't have the knowledge to be my own GC, I really don't want that headache.

Laundry room close to bedrooms and shower. Or possibly a room for dressing, clothes, and washing.

Larger doorways.

I would contract anything that needs inspection. Building inspectors will get real picky with you. You don't wsnt to have something wrong and tear a bunch of shit out. Not to mention if there is a one year inspection and they see something they don't like.

I think it leaves you with drywall and flooring.

I had planned on the laundry room being close to the master bedroom. I don't think I want it right off the bedroom because I don't want to hear it if it's running at night but I don't want it on the other side of the house or on a different level.

I didn't add this earlier but I'm wanting a log cabin style. Either true log cabin or a stick built that has many of the same design features. Open spaces and halls and few doors, just on the bedrooms, laundry etc. I also want lever style door handles in case I get arthritis someday. Plus you can open with your knee if your hands are full. :D

I would def make sure that the important stuff is done by a contractor to make sure it meets code. I don't want to waste the cash when I fuck it up and have to redo it.

If you want tips, like just advice and tips, PM me your email address. We've been working on plans and stuff for our future home, along with all the things I learned from when my parents built theirs.

Be warned, this list will be long, but will have a WEALTH of info. Also will have tips coming from my wife who uses practical thinking such as if you want to retire to the house, use the house with a wheel chair, worst case scenario's etc.

Also my aunt/uncle just rebuilt their house and some of their ideas I liked and we stole too, things like stacked closests on 3 levels so that it can actually be an elevator as their lot did not allow for a ranch. Or having their office on the main level set up to become a bedroom next to a full bath that can become a master sweet if they can't even use the elevator.

Tons of stuff... Just PM me your email.

And no you can't just "build" on their land, you still have to have it inspected, permits, etc. or it would technically be illegal and could be made to destroy it.

I will PM you my email, I'll take all the information I can get! Thanks.

The closet idea is genius, I never would have thought of something like that. I am aware that I can't just build on their land without it being in my name, not sure if I made it sound that way. I'm not sure the routes I can go. Someone mentioned them selling for a $1? I wonder if it's like selling a car for a $1 and they will send for the tax money on the actual value of a car. I also wonder if they could just give it to me, like a one time gift up to XX amount of dollars. I need to check into that more.

I would use a GC to help you keep things in order, oversee that the build is to code, and less to phuck up doing it all yourself and having rework or any missed steps. Basements now are typically poured, and able to outlast any block and morter build, although block may still be offered? I like the underground safety a basement offers too, not to mention the additional living space or storage possibilities.

Good luck and as always, start a build thread :D

If I went with a basement, I cannot see going with cinder blocks. I have seen way to many basements done that way and end up cracking and leaking or worse...my parent's house for one. I remember seeing a way where the walls are made off site, then trucked in and set into the ground. The corners are connected very well and this nearly eliminates the typical faults of brick and mortar walls.

Definitely get a reputable GC if you are not used to running construction sites. Sometimes their markup is not as bad as dealing with all the BS that you will be put through. Not too mention their timeline will be much quicker than if you tried to run it yourself. For the cost difference (not as much as you would think), go with a basement. It just makes sense.

Good luck!

Agreed!

I used to work with a small company building houses. Imho, hiring a GC is not necessary but I am looking at it thru the eyes of someone experienced at this sort of thing. It might be best to hire one if you feel totally lost meeting building codes and keeping the subs (sub contractors) all working in coordination.

I for sure would go with a basement. Make sure everything is insulated above code requirements. If you are located north of I-70 I would go Geo-thermal with my heating and maybe even 2x6 outer walls. I would build a 'safe room' within. Utilize as much low voltage lighting as possible. Also I would go with a hard wired automatic generator system. Whatever fuel source you use for this and the heating system will be determined by what is prevalent in the area where you are building.

If you go with a GC to oversee the build, do some checking for those that are into 'green' builds. There are some really trick techniques anymore, much more enhanced that when I was building back in the 80's.

Best of luck!

Geo-thermal is something I want to look into. I know it's a little more expensive up front but pays off, just don't know the average time frame for that to happen. I'm def going to find out whatever cost saving measures I can add in. I'm going to be paying for a house, I don't want outrageous utility bills if they can be avoided.

Going to be going with gas. Electric is just so damn much. I'm also wanting either a fireplace or wood stove. Wood is cheap and would help to heat it. And with the stove, I could cook with it too. Two birds and all that...

I also like those "instant" heaters. That way not paying for water to just be heated until ready to use.

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I have not built, so I have no first-hand knowledge here, and the fact that your parents own the land is a good incentive to build there, but all that said, I have never met anyone who build a house that enjoyed it, or said they would so it again.

Lots of headaches.

I'm expecting a lot of headaches. That's why I plan on doing it once and dying there. Plus I always like hearing my dad's stories from my grandparents house. "When I was your age, grandpa used to sit over there..." I'd like my daughter to be able to revisit those memories.

I'm in the middle of building a rather large house right now. Actually, we are trying to finalize the floor plans and starting to work on picking out the flooring, etc. What a long process. This will be the second that we've built but the first was a Fisher home so it was a bit cookie cutter with limited options etc. This one will be 100% custom.

For the past few years, we've been keeping a list of things that we wanted in the new house from features down to floor plan wants (i.e. first floor master). Start making a list of all of these little things so you don't lose sight of them. Keep resale value items in mind when designing even if you think this is the home you'll die in.

Find a reputable builder who has been around awhile and do your homework. If I think of anything else I'll chime in.

Here is a rendering of how the house will look...

Yep, I am keeping a list of all the ideas I'd like to incorporate. I have a feeling by the time the list is done and I am ready to build, I'm going to have to prioritize on importance. If not, I'll be putting in secret passages and underground tunnels leading to in ground turrets and all that. Although that is a bit important, right? :lol:

Disclaimer: I designed and built my own house--using a GC--back 1999. It's a royal pain-in-the-ass!!! If you're married, you will likely be divorced by the time you build. If you're single, you will have tried to kill yourself several times by the end of the process. That bein' said....

1) There will some fun and 'excitement' along the way. Even if you use a GC, be as involved as you possibly can and visit your build site at least once every other day. Shit can go wrong real fast.

2) It is a rewarding experience....when you're done. And you'll have lots of stories to tell your friends....like the time I caught one of the drywallers shitting down the floor vent. And he wasn't Mexican. :nono:

3) Single stories aren't cheaper to build per sq ft than two stories, nor are they as energy efficient.

4) Never build a house with less than 3 BDRMs unless you plan on living there until you die. Resale sucks for anything less than that.

5) Basements are worth the investment IF THEY'RE ENGINEERED AND BUILT CORRECTLY!!! The key to this is drainage-drainage-drainage. I have a strong preference for sloped lots with walk-out potential. And to be honest, there are some areas of the country that are not suitable for basements.

Floor plan should keep kitchen/LR/master BDRM/bathroom/laundry on the main floor. Bump the side of the house opposite the master suite to situate additional BDRMs on the second story. I'm not a big fan of huge master suites; you'll spend nearly 99% of your time there asleep with your eyes closed. Put a lot of thought into the areas you'll be in most of the time--kitchen, great room (or LR/family room) and throw a bit of extra money at the master bath. Ground level entry, walk-in showers, minimum of 36" interior doorways should take you into old age; you can always change out your fixtures later to accommodate mobility issues. In areas with snow/ice, I recommend a minimum roof pitch of 6:12 with membrane barrier at he eaves to eliminate ice damming. If I was doing my house over, I would have tried to use either steel or engineered wall studs and pre-engineered floor trusses/laminated beams to minimize quality issues. Over-insulate walls/ceilings/above-grade basement areas. Put in as high a quality window as you can afford. My windows ran $18,000 and they're worth it everyday. Garage space is fairly inexpensive compared to finished space; go as big as you can with available money/lot siting. I put in a 36Wx28Dx10H and it was too small by the time I moved in.

You will have be the deeded owner of the land you plan to build on. Unless you're paying cash up front, no one will give you a construction loan to build on property belonging to someone else, even if it's Mom 'n' Dad. You will be able to use the equity value of the property as a down payment on the loan amount.

Good luck and be sure to share your experience as you go.

1) Absolutely.

2) lol wtf

3) Really? I figured with hot air rising and cold air sinking, a single story would be more efficient. Hmm.

4) No, I really want at least 3, probably 4. I figure if I keep the master reasonably sized, have the master bath, a bathroom for the kids and a half bath for visitors, I can get the room for a 4th bedroom. And if I don't need that room, it can be used as an office, work out room or something else.

Everyone seems to be pushing the basement. I will reconsider not having one now. I do know how important drainage it, that is one of my big worries. I remember christmas ornaments being damaged when the basement flooded. I don't want to go through that shit again.

Didn't know the land equity value could be used as a down payment. Interesting.

I havnt built my own house but my brother did on my parents property similar to your situation.

I think its probably best for both parties if your parents sell (for a $1) you the building lot.

Basements are convenient for utilities, storage and future expansion if the local conditions easily support it but you probably want to figure out the price difference to determine if it is worth it.

My brother put in radiant floor heating throughout. This makes for a very comfortable house and eliminates the need for any radiators or vents on/near the floor. Your AC then becomes a separate system which adds a little cost but both can be optimally configured so that that the house is comfortable summer or winter with less waste.

Good insulation and sealing go a long way to not only reducing heating and cooling costs but also improves comfort.

It is nearly inevitable you will have cost overruns. So make sure you budget about 20% extra to handle those while still working to keep everything on budget.

Craig

I knew about radiant floor heating just didn't realize it could heat the entire house and eliminate duct work. I image the A/C vents would be off the floor?

Insulation is something I am really concerned about. I've been in enough drafty house and wasting all that energy. I don't want to be paying to heat outside.

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Few main things; Geo Thermal, and having the basement dug 1-2 feet deeper for higher ceilings. Extra wide halls if you plan to live tehre forever, roll in shower large enough to add wheel chair seat, stuff like that. Finished garage with a heater(radiant or shop fan style), drain running width or length of garage, hot and cold water hookups in garage, along with seperate drop sink. Outside faucets on every side of the house, if you think you have enough plugs, cable plugs, phone, add twice what you have. Every 6 feet for electrical, and 1-2 per wall for everything else.

And make the bathrooms 2-4 feet larger than you think is big enough.

And as stated in the basement Drainage.

All very good ideas and points. I will keep all that in mind and would like to implement most if not all of them.

Thank ya...should be done around August, then PARTAY!

I agree...add as many outlets as you can as well as ethernet ports (yes, even with the proliferation of wireless) and cable jacks. Think of creative spots like above cabinents (to add rope lighting, makes a nice effect) and in closets.

Didn't consider places like above cabinets, that's smart.

I've built three houses for myself in the last decade and a few others for other people. When I say "I built", I mean that I surveyed the lot, hammered every nail, hung every sheet of drywall, wired, plumbed, layed carpet and tile, EVERYTHING. The only contractors I use are HVAC and insulation installers because they typically can do the whole job for less than I pay for materials. I'll also get help with roof shingles and concrete flatwork and basement walls. I'm not licensed in any field and the state and county are fine with that as long as my name is on the deed.

Like others have said, it's an incredible amount of work and hard to invision the process. It seems like you may not have the skills to literally build it yourself. If that's the case, you definately want a GC. It is hard to manage subs and as an owner-builder, they won't take you as seriously or give their best rates. I found the local inspectors to be very helpful. You may want to pick their brains for a good local GC.

Seconding others when it comes to: put in a basement!, use mid-range finishes/fixtures/cabinets/windows/etc

I'm thinking the basement is more important that I originally thought judging my everyone's comments.

I am really not comfortable being an owner-builder. Too many headaches, codes, workers to deal with...nope I'd rather have someone else that knows what they are doing deal with all that.

I can live without top notch furnishings but I don't want to skimp and have them break in a few years. You get what you pay for and I'd rather not have to be spending more to replace cheap shit later.

Whatever you do yourself is going to save yourself money. Just like working on your bike.

I am handy enough that I could do a lot of the interior stuff. And things I don't know how, my dad more than likely will and with him being next door, it's not a long drive for him! Stuff like hanging doors, lighting fixtures, cabinet hardware, clean up, etc, I will definitely do.

I don't know dick about building houses, but I can tell you that if you're looking to do a new construction, run multiple CAT5 (CAT6 if you're feeling frisky) to at least every room in the house, and at least 2 runs per panel. Wireless is a wonderful thing, but RF can get pretty spotty in a house sometimes. Wired networking is easy-peasy.

Never would have considered that. Cable for tv yeah, but not for networking/internet. Good idea.

when i finish my basement, im running cat 5, 6, fibre channel, monster wire, woven unicorn pubes and all sorts of crap. who knows what will be the wave of the future. i just don't wanna tear out the wall again.

Shit, never thought of running unicorn pubes.

Great suggestion. Speaker wires too. I have also run a couple of 2 inch PVC sch 40 pipe from the basement up to the attic on 2 stories too. Nice chases for running wires at some later date.

Speaker wire is something I had in mind. I would love to have surround sound and not have to run wire under carpets or figure it out after the fact. Good idea on the pvc pipe too. Again, not something I would have thought of.

High ceilings in the basement which the basement is a must have.

Quit claim deed the property over now but you'll need it surveyed to seperate. Then everyone's property taxes change. Hopefully, your parents property if on CAUV, does not fall off.

Had a big bank barn torn down 3 years ago at my place. They paid me $2200, so you probably aren't going to get rich off of it. Type of wood and siding changes things. If you do it, be ready for a mess. should try and line up buyers for the wood first to help you decide which route to go. And watch it Some of those barn guys are con-artists. if you go that route get a good contract covering start to finish. It's kinda like the old, SAVE Your roof slates their worth money, ya right, only if you can find that niche buyer. And the barn stones, worth keeping around for future projects, steps, walls, fire pits, if they don't offer enough money.

What is "quit claim" and "CAUV"?

Yeah I know I'm not going to make a killing on the barn but the extra cash would help. Dad was just talking to me today about possibly selling the siding and using the frame for the house. It's still in great shape, especially the main support beams. It would need to be moved as it's too close to the road, creek and south property line. Using those as the main frame would save a bit. I also like the idea of being able to point to a beam in the house and say that was in the old barn that used to stand right over there. Keeping the old stones and stuff for future projects is a good idea too.

Would you recommend the company that tore yours down? Do you have any contact info for them?

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Sorry to put so much advice into one post, but this is important. I built my house 10 years ago. Similar situation as yours. Took an acre and half off the farm and built something we are going to be in for most our lives. Went with a 2 story colonial as it's cheaper to go up than out (ranch) but that's your choice. Larger bathrooms are nice especially the Master bath. Of course the 3 car garage too is nice and pretty standard these days. Just make sure the garage is large enough for all the toys plus cars. You can make it larger and wider. 8' high door is always a good upgrade for trucks.

We rough plumbed the basement for a full bath later on. (I am in the process of finishing it now.) I would definitely go with 2x6 framing on the outside walls and look at geothermal heating. Heating costs only keep going up. We have access to all the free wood I can cut from the farm so we put in a wood stove. Love the wood stove on any winter nights. Saves us heating as we supplement with wood instead of using propane all the time. I don't have access to natural gas yet.

Check your local building and zoning codes for the County/Township. Zoning will dictate the lot size for well and septic even if you have city services. Get a perk test done first before you split the land off by a surveyor. You don't want stuck with an un-buildable lot if you can't get a septic system to work on it. If your local health dept. is following the new state rules for septic systems, you will most likely have to hire a soil scientist to do core soil samples to tell you if the land will work for a septic system.

I did a "quit-claim" deed with my Dad and Uncle who own the farm to split off a lot. Remember, you will have to pay taxes on the improvements on the lot when the house gets added so taxes will go up on the land when the house gets built.

Leave some extra money for cost over runs in your loan and be careful to pick a good reputable builder. My brother-in-law almost lost a new house under construction after the builder went out of business when he didn't pay his contractor's from other houses and several leans were filed on their house and work had to stop for many months. Check references for sure. Lucky for them one of his supervisors picked it up and finished the house after the leans came off.

Don't sign any bank "draw slips" until that portion of the work is complete and you are happy with the work. Some builders will try to get you to sign more construction draws even though the work was not completed.

Above all, be flexible and be involved. I checked on things daily. Builders are only as good as their contractors and believe me contractors will try to cut corners. I would catch things along the way and have to call the GC to straighten it out. My wife and I have similar taste and expectations. We both agreed on most things and overall, I really enjoyed it. It sure is not a perfect process.

Good luck and have fun. You will find out what your marriage and personality are made of if you let every little thing get to you.

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Sorry to put so much advice into one post, but this is important. I built my house 10 years ago. Similar situation as yours. Took an acre and half off the farm and built something we are going to be in for most our lives. Went with a 2 story colonial as it's cheaper to go up than out (ranch) but that's your choice. Larger bathrooms are nice especially the Master bath. Of course the 3 car garage too is nice and pretty standard these days. Just make sure the garage is large enough for all the toys plus cars. You can make it larger and wider. 8' high door is always a good upgrade for trucks.

Hey, the more advice I get the better. You could write a novel and I'd be cool with that. :)

See, I always figured it was more expensive to go up. But thinking about foundation/basement/roof, I could see that. If I did go with a two story, I think the only things I'd want up there would be the kids/spare bedrooms and a full bath. Maybe an open area for a pool table or something like that if I don't have to room downstairs.

Three car garage will be almost mandatory. Need a place for the bike and tools, plus being able to keep the cars inside would be a great thing.

We rough plumbed the basement for a full bath later on. (I am in the process of finishing it now.) I would definitely go with 2x6 framing on the outside walls and look at geothermal heating. Heating costs only keep going up. We have access to all the free wood I can cut from the farm so we put in a wood stove. Love the wood stove on any winter nights. Saves us heating as we supplement with wood instead of using propane all the time. I don't have access to natural gas yet.

Going to look into geo thermal and fireplace/wood stove. Sound like really good ideas.

Check your local building and zoning codes for the County/Township. Zoning will dictate the lot size for well and septic even if you have city services. Get a perk test done first before you split the land off by a surveyor. You don't want stuck with an un-buildable lot if you can't get a septic system to work on it. If your local health dept. is following the new state rules for septic systems, you will most likely have to hire a soil scientist to do core soil samples to tell you if the land will work for a septic system.

Very good to know this.

I did a "quit-claim" deed with my Dad and Uncle who own the farm to split off a lot. Remember, you will have to pay taxes on the improvements on the lot when the house gets added so taxes will go up on the land when the house gets built.

Had to google the term, but found out what a quitclaim deed is. Think I could just build my home underground and they would never find out and I wouldn't have to pay taxes? :D

Leave some extra money for cost over runs in your loan and be careful to pick a good reputable builder. My brother-in-law almost lost a new house under construction after the builder went out of business when he didn't pay his contractor's from other houses and several leans were filed on their house and work had to stop for many months. Check references for sure. Lucky for them one of his supervisors picked it up and finished the house after the leans came off.

That sucks. I am going to get plenty of references and make sure they are reputable. I hear that houses almost go over budget so an extra little bit is always a very good idea.

Don't sign any bank "draw slips" until that portion of the work is complete and you are happy with the work. Some builders will try to get you to sign more construction draws even though the work was not completed.

Nope, it's not like me to ever do something like that, good to know though.

Above all, be flexible and be involved. I checked on things daily. Builders are only as good as their contractors and believe me contractors will try to cut corners. I would catch things along the way and have to call the GC to straighten it out. My wife and I have similar taste and expectations. We both agreed on most things and overall, I really enjoyed it. It sure is not a perfect process.

I will def stay involved and make sure it's going well. I am pretty flexible tolerant anyways so that doesn't worry me too much. Life is too short to worry about the small things and you can't take your stuff with you anyways.

Good luck and have fun. You will find out what your marriage and personality are made of if you let every little thing get to you.

Thanks

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I had typed most of this up last night before you replied:

Ah, the barn. I know a guy.

A lot of the building stuff, I know a guy (you know him, too!)

You WANT a basement out here. Have you forgotten how often tornadoes seem to hit out this way? Also, what happens below ground level, stays below ground level! :lol: If you do go with a basement (and I highly recommend it) just as others have said, DRAINAGE! It'e probably not a bad idea to double up on the sump pump well, or have a larger one put in to accommodate and extra sump pump, because those things do fail, and it's always when you need them the most (we have a friend that can tell you all about this!) Also, try to leave room in the budget for an automatic generator, or at least have provisions in place for one to be added.

You WILL need a good water softener out here!

Building a house is something that I would love to do, and I have put some thought into some of the cool things that I would do. One thing is using water for heat, gas fired boiler, and wood burner, run tubing in the garage and basement floors to heat them. Having the wood burner, or at least provisions to be able to add one later just gives you an option later, along with the auto generator (I would look into options there, for multi-fuel, etc..) just in case the SHTF.

One thing that I can't believe I hardly see is a heated driveway, and sidewalks. The cost to install would be pretty low, and if you're using water for heat anyway, a heat exchanger would be all that's needed. I don't think it would take all that much to bring the temp of it up a few degrees to melt the snow off, but I may be wrong there.

Call me up or stop out sometime for some of the other cool ideas I have!

Also, while the excavator is there, have them move some dirt for a nice range backstop! :D

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What is "quit claim" and "CAUV"?

Yeah I know I'm not going to make a killing on the barn but the extra cash would help. Dad was just talking to me today about possibly selling the siding and using the frame for the house. It's still in great shape, especially the main support beams. It would need to be moved as it's too close to the road, creek and south property line. Using those as the main frame would save a bit. I also like the idea of being able to point to a beam in the house and say that was in the old barn that used to stand right over there. Keeping the old stones and stuff for future projects is a good idea too.

Would you recommend the company that tore yours down? Do you have any contact info for them?

I'll pm you the number, I'm not sure if he's in the business anymore or not. I put a add on Craigslist to find barn guys. If the beams have hatchet marks in them the better.

CAUV: Basically you need 10 acres exclusivley used for agricultural use and you get a property tax break.

Edited by Gump
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2013 Federal Estate tax law allow each parent to give up to 5.25 million without taxation. They can do this even while they are alive, but each dollar given reduces the future total amount.

Not sure about OH law, but your parents could give you the land without fed taxes.

Biggie

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Never would have considered that. Cable for tv yeah, but not for networking/internet. Good idea.

When you're ready to do it, hit me up. I just ordered a bunch of stuff for my cousin in NYC who's renovating his house, he also ran CAT5 but needed a place to terminate it that didn't look hokey. I'll get you set up, and for a sixxer of Sam Adams I'll bring my tools and terminate everything. For a house it shouldn't take long at all, there aren't that many terminations.

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dont have 13.5 hours to read this thread....but, i know of a contractor whose work in as good as it comes....he can draw up everything for you and build it all...its an all-in-one company

http://www.collamorebuilt.com/

ive worked with him before and vouch for his quality....everything is done to perfection, no corners cut anywhere

i personally helped with the demolition on this house and the new floors....this place was a 1970s party house in clintonville...upscale place but you could tell it was probably a swingers joint...maybe an after party spot.... they tore out the whole floor (walls, fireplace, floors, bathrooms, ...everything).... if i was ever serious about building a house here that i planned to never leave, he would be my first stop for sure

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUgBpxvaGVw

Edited by Steve Butters
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When you're ready to do it, hit me up. I just ordered a bunch of stuff for my cousin in NYC who's renovating his house, he also ran CAT5 but needed a place to terminate it that didn't look hokey. I'll get you set up, and for a sixxer of Sam Adams I'll bring my tools and terminate everything. For a house it shouldn't take long at all, there aren't that many terminations.

By termination, you mean the plug on the wall? :o

dont have 13.5 hours to read this thread....but, i know of a contractor whose work in as good as it comes....he can draw up everything for you and build it all...its an all-in-one company

http://www.collamorebuilt.com/

ive worked with him before and vouch for his quality....everything is done to perfection, no corners cut anywhere

i personally helped with the demolition on this house and the new floors....this place was a 1970s party house in clintonville...upscale place but you could tell it was probably a swingers joint...maybe an after party spot.... they tore out the whole floor (walls, fireplace, floors, bathrooms, ...everything).... if i was ever serious about building a house here that i planned to never leave, he would be my first stop for sure

Sweet, thanks. Looking at the site it says renovations and additions. You say they also build entire homes? How is is pricing? I don't want the low end but can't afford the top end either.

#1 rule of plumbing, shit flows downhill. YW.

Sometimes uphill too...

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I had my 2 story, 4 bdrm home built in 1998 on my own 1/3 acre .... You should check with the county about sharing driveway, ask about septic system/perk test... If all that's good, and you decide upon house plans - you can inquire about extensions. I extended my house by 2 foot in one direction at that time it cost me $2750.00 for that extra 2feet...I decided against extending the center section of house due to my budget.... I had house plumbed for gas fireplace - still haven't installed one, but the gas line is right where I want it if I ever get enough cash to purchase the unit... I had extra outlets wired in every room, and close to ceiling for flat screen TV, it's a clean look, no cords hanging down...I installed all my surround sound wiring before drywall went up - again for clean look, radio shack speaker outlets .... I wish I had gas line plumbed to patio/deck area, could've converted my grill to run off LP gas instead of always filling propane bottles. . . . I've installed outlets on ceiling in my garage for those 4" fluorescent lights - nice and bright in my garage. . Only around 2,000 sq ft, white PVC fence cost me $4k in '98 7d07872f.jpg...two month after moving in I built my mini barn with concrete floor and overhead door to match house, to store motorcycles in 661a5485.jpg

Edited by Limenine9r
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When you're ready to do it, hit me up. I just ordered a bunch of stuff for my cousin in NYC who's renovating his house, he also ran CAT5 but needed a place to terminate it that didn't look hokey. I'll get you set up, and for a sixxer of Sam Adams I'll bring my tools and terminate everything. For a house it shouldn't take long at all, there aren't that many terminations.

i would buy a spool of bulk cat 5 and have this man come over and run them all. avoid paying a contractor to do it, and pay this man a 6 pack.

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I knew about radiant floor heating just didn't realize it could heat the entire house and eliminate duct work. I image the A/C vents would be off the floor?

Insulation is something I am really concerned about. I've been in enough drafty house and wasting all that energy. I don't want to be paying to heat outside.

Yep, he heats his whole house with what is basically an ultra efficient hot water heater. Radiant floor heating uses a lower temperature for the hot water than baseboard heating so it can be even more efficient.

Central AC will require ducts in the ceiling or near the ceiling on the walls. But this location works much better for cooling than ducts near the floor (which works better for heating).

The combination makes for a nice clean install with no concern about furniture blocking vents or radiators.

However it is 2 independent systems so it will cost more than a combined forced hot air/AC system. He plumbed all of the heating system himself which saved a considerable cost.

Craig

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By termination, you mean the plug on the wall? :o

I mean the plug on the wall (which should be a keystone jack plugged into a modular wall plate) and more importantly, the distribution area where all those runs congregate. If you do it right, there should be probably upwards of 12+ runs in that spot, so the best way to do it is to get a low-profile mount and punch them all down to a patch panel, then run your cables from there to the network device of your choosing. Power/Coax should also be run here as well, as close to the cable company entrance to the house as you can get. Closets work well for these central termination points (unless you're like me and want to see the blinky lights), but with a wall mount for the patch panel and a sturdy shelf for the networking gear you can put it pretty much anywhere.

Cost of gear for my cousin was roughly $100 bucks, that included the mount, 12port patch panel, 2 8port dumb gig switches, and some cable management stuff. He already had ends, for those I would recommend Panduit Mini-Com's all day long.

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