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Doubting the turnout will be very good, chilicothe is the same weekend, all the hags and homos will be at Ross co fairgrounds doing burnouts and shooting meth.

Greetings everyone, I am Akagis_White_Comet. Been in Central Ohio since I was a year old, but moved to Columbus last November and finally got on here after being referred by ObliqueFD. My normal haunt is the RX7club as a forum moderator and general beacon of hope for N00bs of the Rotary Engine. My overall specialty is anything regarding wiring, circuits and whatnot, the vast majority having been designed for or implemented on my heavily modified 1987 RX-7. Okay, here are some pics: When I brought her home: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-when-i-brought-her-home-54457.jpg Over at ObliqueFD's place shortly after: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-hanging-out-obliquefds-ssm-fd-54458.jpg Under the hood back then... http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-such-humble-beginnings-54459.jpg How she looks today on the outside: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-general-pics-7251-picture-fd-wheels-54460.jpg And what I've done to her: http://www.rx7club.com/members/akagis_white_comet-109727-albums-twin-turbo-vacuum-overhaul-7051-picture-complete-vacuum-system-after-overhaul-53627.jpg The only thing I've not touched is the Power Steering :gabe:

Been in Central Ohio for more years than most of you have probably been alive. Currently drive a showroom stock C6 Corvette that ran a 12.64 @ 113 at National Trail this spring. Not a steet racer for many years. I have owned a number of interesting cars over the years including a '62 solid lifter Corvette , a '65 Solid lifter Corvette, A '69 350/350 Corvete, a '73 big block Corvette, a 1965 GTO purchased new, a new 1968 Roadrunner, a new 1999 Mustang Cobra, a new '86 Buick Grand National, a twin turbo BMW, a BMW M convertible, and more that don't immediately come to mind. Just a car guy cruising the internet and came across this web site.

Since this pops up every few weeks, here's a list of handguns that are recommended or not recommended to buy for novice shooters. I'm not locking this thread because I need people's input. I don't know shit about revolvers so this is a group effort for sure. I'll edit the list as more people post. This will be broken down by classification of gun and purpose, so there will be some overlap. I can also add more categories later on. I am skipping certain calibers on purpose. Rounds that are good defensive rounds but are hard to come by (9x18 Makarov, .357 Sig, .45 GAP) or simply overpowered for a novice (10mm, .44 Magnum) means that the person is far less likely to train. Defensive handgunning requires training whenever possible. Everyone has an opinion on what they like. This list is more about what guns are proven to be reliable, high quality and generally well liked, along with being readily available and easy to find parts for/repair, especially for the CCW section. Because of this, regardless of how awesome one particular gun may be, if its hard to find or fix it doesn't belong on this list. Fanboys aside, I think we can all agree on what's crap and should be avoided at all costs. As for the person ultimately looking to buy something - use this list as a reference, but nothing can replace actually holding a gun and firing it. Please rent before you buy. Everyone holds a gun differently, can manipulate the mag release and slide lock differently, and rack the slide differently. Remember - train train train. Put your new gun through the paces, make sure it is reliable before depending on it with your life. Run at least a couple hundred rounds through it without an issue. If it has problems stop and evaluate the situation. Is it stovepiping, as in an empty shell is getting caught in the slide? Try locking your wrists and gripping it tighter. Is it having trouble feeding, or the slide not slamming all the way home? Make sure it's clean and lubricated, and the magazine is seated and locked in properly. Are you shooting consistently, but not where you are aiming? Have an experienced shooter give it a try - more likely than not your grip and how you are pulling the trigger is throwing off your shots. If several other people are also shooting off, or its still off when shooting from a supported rest the sights MAY need adjusted. If you are having real malfunctions, don't be afraid to send it back for warranty work instead of trying to screw with it yourself, or having Bubba down the street start mucking with it. This is one huge upside to buying new instead of used for your first gun, you aren't walking into someone else's problems. It's better to let the factory fix it than screw with it yourself. Caliber choice is a tricky one - the debate will rage on forever whether you want to have more shots (9mm) or make bigger holes (.45). Going with .40 is the compromise between the two, but with today's defensive ammo the difference between them all is pretty minimal. If you still can't decide, you can't go wrong with 9mm. It's cheaper to buy, so it's cheaper to shoot, which means you can shoot more for the same money. It's also generally softer shooting than .40 or .45 in the same platform. To keep with the theme of being suggestions for novices and for simplicity sake, I'm not going to include anything larger than .45 ACP for semi autos and .357 magnum for revolvers. Remember, these are suggestions for a novice shooter buying their first handgun. The goal is to get them into something that they enjoy immediately so they will keep shooting and not be discouraged by issues or discomfort from the start. Here is the criteria to make this list. Not making the list doesn't mean not to ever consider it, just that it's not recommended for a novice shooter. It must be: Reliable Accurate Readily available at most average gun stores Currently in production - can be bought new (no milsurp) Ammo is widely available Parts can be found locally or ordered online without too much trouble Manufacturer must warranty it and fix it if it's not right Solid fit and finish Not too far away from the average price of competitors (not overly expensive) Must be comfortable for most shooters Not meeting one of these requirements isn't an automatic disqualification but means it will have to shine elsewhere, and will get a note about issues at the top. Not meeting two keeps it off the list. Not meeting three can start to push it towards the "do not buy" list, of which I also welcome suggestions. There are also guns that fit in the gray area where they can be useful, but aren't recommended for the novice shooter. Reliability notes: .380 in general - these are generally in the "mouse gun" or "pocket pistol" classification. These all tend to be hard to rack the slide, and I don't believe any of them have been proven to be 100% reliable. Suggested use is only if subcompacts can not be properly concealed. The Glock 42 has had some minor reliability problems, but otherwise is an excellent choice in this category. Glock 19 has had a run recently with some sub-par parts, mainly involving extraction. After approximately 500-1,000 rounds they can begin extracting the brass very erratically, including into the shooter's face. They supposedly have fixed the problems. These can be fixed with aftermarket parts but it seems to be a crapshoot as to what combination of parts will fix each individual one. This problem affects Gen 3 and Gen 4 models. Problem solved. Smith&Wesson M&P 9mm full size has had issues through most of their run of the barrel unlocking from the slide too early, causing "flyers" or occasional shots being way off target. This issue can be found immediately, and there's no way to tell if it's affected or not until firing it. An aftermarket barrel fixes the problem. It is still reliable, so it is otherwise still included on the list. This issue has been claimed to have been solved several times now, not sure if it's still an issue. RECOMMENDED: Concealed Carry: .380 ACP (aka 9mm Kurz, 9x17mm, 9mm short) Glock 42 Sig Sauer P238 Smith&Wesson Bodyguard Walther PK380 9mm Luger (aka 9mm Parabellum, 9x19) CZ 75 Compact CZ P-01 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) Glock 19 (compact) Glock 26 (subcompact) Glock 43 (single stack subcompact) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Sig Sauer P239 (subcompact) Sig Sauer P938 (subcompact) Ruger LC9 (subcompact) Ruger SR9c (compact) Smith&Wesson Shield 9mm (subcompact, single stack) Smith&Wesson M&P 9c (compact) Springfield XD Subcompact Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP Compact Walther PPS (subcompact) .40 S&W CZ P-06 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) Glock 23 (compact) Glock 27 (subcompact) Ruger SR40c (compact) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Sig Sauer P239 (subcompact) Smith&Wesson Shield .40 (subcompact, single stack) Smith&Wesson M&P .40c (compact) Springfield XD Subcompact Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP Compact Walther PPS (subcompact) .38 Special/.357 Magnum (revolver) Ruger LCR Smith&Wesson J Frame .45 ACP (.45 Auto) Glock 30 (subcompact) Glock 36 (subcompact, single stack) Springfield XD-S (subcompact, single stack) Springfield XDM 3.8 Compact H&K USP Compact Nightstand/Home Defense duty: 9mm Luger (aka 9mm Parabellum, 9x19) CZ 75 (fullsize) CZ 75 Compact CZ P-01 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) CZ P-09 Duty (fullsize) FN FNS (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Glock 19 (compact) Glock 17 (fullsize) Ruger SR9c (compact) Sig Sauer P226 (fullsize) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Smith&Wesson M&P 9mm Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P 9c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 3.8 (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact Walther PPQ (fullsize) Walther PPX (fullsize) .40 S&W CZ 75 (fullsize) CZ P-06 (compact) CZ P-07 Duty (compact) CZ P-09 Duty (fullsize) FN FNS (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Glock 23 (compact) Glock 22 (fullsize) Ruger SR40c (compact) Sig Sauer P226 (fullsize) Sig Sauer P229 (compact) Smith&Wesson M&P .40 Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P .40c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 3.8 (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K P30 (compact) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact Walther PPQ (fullsize) Walther PPX (fullsize) .38 Special/.357 Magnum (revolver) Smith&Wesson K frame Smith&Wesson L frame .45 ACP (aka .45 Auto) 1911 Variant (see below) Glock 21 (fullsize) FN FNP (fullsize) FN FNX (fullsize) Smith&Wesson M&P .45 Fullsize Smith&Wesson M&P .45 Midsize Smith&Wesson M&P .45c (compact) Springfield XD Service (compact) Springfield XDM 4.5 (fullsize) H&K HK45c (compact) H&K HK45 (fullsize) H&K USP (fullsize) H&K USP Compact

I've been on a mission the last few weeks to find exactly what I want. I've looked at the glock 26/27, kahr cm9,sig p938, m&p shield, keltec pf9, and quite a few others. I finally made my decision. The XDs 9mm. It feels very nice in my hand. The trigger pull is smooth and crisp, with a clean break. Now to go to the range!

http://www.cnn.com/video/data/2.0/video/us/2013/08/02/sot-nr-semi-goes-airborne.cnn.html

Not funny but a redbarron quality...

SOLD.

Am i the only one that says "Sem-eye" instead of "Sem-eee" like the guy in the vid kept saying? weirdo..

http://www.dot.state.oh.us/Divisions/Planning/SPPM/SystemsPlanning/Pages/MotorcycleCrashStatistics.aspx click the various tabs for highest accident locations, Crash Segment Maps by County, Fatal and Serious Injury Maps by County etc etc Medina county, no brainer, the spots are spots I avoid...in my van Not being morbid, I took part of a safety course back in the early 80's a step further. Studied what kills riders, and what causes accidents. accident free since 1979 knock wood

Building an ECU...sounds like a huge undertaking and is a bit beyond me at the moment, especially since I'm not too good with a soldering iron yet. If I had more practice with an iron, building a Megasquirt would be fun to do. But for now, I'm plenty happy with my Haltech PS2K. Just yesterday, I added a Knock-based ignition retard circuit based on a GM ESA box from a Chevy Astro and a 7:1 voltage divider I designed to reduce the output voltage down from 5v to 2.5v so the Haltech would read the stock Mazda knock sensors correctly. It pulls both leading AND trailing ignition timing when the voltage input the circuit resides on drops below 2.5v (during knock). Total cost to build the circuit: $4 However, I do have an impressive project on the sketchbook right now. It is well known that the FC's coolant temperature gauge sender is poor at best and most owners Series 5 (89-91)'s are especially bad, having essentially three positions: Cold, Warmed up and New Engine. This behavior has most owners add a new gauge based on a separate sender. This duplication of functions just seems in poor taste to me, so I did the wiring groundwork throughout the car to accommodate something better.... So I built a device that generates signals for every gauge that could reasonably be used in a RX-7, both stock and aftermarket, as the first part of a BIG upgrade. Using this device, I discovered that all of the gauges respond quite slowly... So I designed a new gauge cluster from scratch. All the stock gauges from both the N/A & Turbo FC are present (Speedo, Tach, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temperature, Fuel Level, Voltmeter & Boost), along with the ever-important Air/Fuel Ratio. Thanks to the way I've designed the cluster, it can use any sensor I want for any function. A prime example of this is already on the car now as its coolant temperature sensor is from a LS2 Corvette. I did this because it was cheaper than the original Mazda part, is threaded identically (M12x1.5) and the appropriate connector can be found at the same parts store as the sensor on a daily basis anywhere in North America. While I do have the electrical specifications for the stock sensor, its connector is a bit more difficult to find as I've not yet identified its manufacturer (another side project). Anyway, back to the story. Entirely digital cluster, fits the car's character & period, accepts any sensor input with the proper code/electrical scaling and can be reflashed for different sensors in 15 minutes with just a USB cable. The only part that would be carried over is the stock odometer for legal reasons as well as simplicity due to the HUGE amount of effort required to build code for a digital odometer properly. FDs use a 93C56 memory chip for storing/recalling the mileage. Although I could crack its encryption and reverse-engineeer its code structure with a few data dumps of chips in clusters of varying mileage (SNES & PS2 save hacking is a fun pasttime), it would take just as long to build code to read/write to the chip in the same manner. Much simpler to retain the stock odometer using a couple in-family parts and some electrical wizardry via a stepper motor or stepper encoder depending on how I do it, it's still on the drawing boards for the time being. I think in ohms...

Bunch of slack-jawed faggots in here. I get my hands dirty like a real man, then I eat chewing tobbacco and shit Cuban cigars. After that I go face-punch a cow and take a bite out of its ass, wash it down with a quart of wild turkey and a pack of camel bare-asses before I go home, slap my wife and make her dress me up in linge....I mean make me a sammich and slobber my dingus. But for real, unless I'm handling something caustic or extrmely poisonous, I leave the gloves off.

LOL I have Gump gloves too! best on the market! Mick these are great to have around the garage, you will find that you will use them more than you think.

That too. But for real, I have a box of Gumps gloves. They have been in a few body cavities with no complaints.

Anyone here like that we know????

no one complained about the patriot act when it was 911 time. so STFU now that the ramifications are coming to real life as they excersise their freedom stripping powers on you. you gave your rights up for a bit of security and some of you I recall defended it tooth and nail. recall anyone ever saying "its ok with me, If youre not doing something illegal you have nothing to worry about"?

I guess once the cat was out of the bag about prism, NSA etc, f'it, they went full Orwellian on us. I'd like to donkey punch an obama voter

We no longer have a functioning democracy.

Initial D fanboy.. watchout. piderman pewp in yer bay?

meh Signed, Jackson_Huge_Penis_Like_Really_Big_It_Impresses_The_Ladies

Don't waste your time! They have absolutely turned this event into a shit hole. The Mayor of Heath is a real genius let me tell ya. He has this idea of forcing everyone southward on 79. There is not really anywhere to sit down there. In order to succeed they put no parking signs up in Southgate (the biggest parking lot in Heath), were towing vehicles who still parked there. They also had cops parking on the street over top of areas where water had been thrown for burnouts. They also forced everyone into 1 lane of traffic either way. I have been going for the last 13 years and I can easily say I won't be there tomorrow night because of this. Figured I would give everyone a heads up and maybe save you some gas/time. I really hope all the Mopar guys decide to take the cruise elsewhere and stick it to Heath.