12oclocker

I assure you nick, If I would have seen that, I would have killed that guy with my bare hands!

yeah, that cost was dealer resale cost, those OEM connectors are extremely hard to obtain, I can be a dealer from the main distributor and get a discount, I just got off the phone with the actual company that yamaha buys their parts from, but its going to require a $200 minimum parts order. so I'm eithor going to have to make a bunch of units and hope I can resale them all, or the prototype cost is going to go up if I want to be able to plug into the factory connectors. I'll just have to divide the cost amoung the few prototype units to absorb the cost, sucks there gonna be like 45 bucks to make now, lol, oh well, still cheaper than healtech's price by more than half.

wow, I spent all day on the phone with yamaha and various other companies tracking down who makes the connectors for yamaha, I found out the pins, the rubber dust seals, and the plastic connectors are all sold seperate, for the male and female connectors, and pins, and dust seals to make 3 connectors for the WR250X, it's gonna cost me $75!

I plan on it being REALLY tiny, much smaller than healtech's, but it does lack the ability to make positive ratio adjustments. so if someone is going to regear for more top speed, instead of more torque, it wont work for them (most people dont do that) If I was going to make one that does both, I would have to use a microcontroller, and write some assembly language code for it, but I decided to keep it simple, since this design will apply to the vast majority of users. the the microcontroller chips cost more, and require more supporting components. I just placed an order online for enough parts to make 4 units.

yeah, they are nice, but I dont want to shell out 100 bucks for something that can be made for much cheaper

a single chip design, will be much smaller than the healtech, just unplug the speedo sensor, and put this unit in between

Ok, I decided to make a speedo healer in the next couple weeks for my WR250X. my design allows for correction from 1.56% to 98.43%, in 1.56% increments, with 63 possible adjustment settings, it is designed for torque regearing, meaning if you went down in the front, or up any in the rear, this will work for you. If anyone wants one, let me know, I'm estimated the cost of throwing it together to be at around $20, I'll post pics and everyting throughout the build process.

take off the aftermarket stuff, wash the bike REALLY good, make it look new, take it to the dealer, tell them you ride normal and suspect factory defect, get warantee repair done.

I think I'll go pick me up one of these this month...

yeah, he's gonna be getting a much older bike for that price. nothing fancy at all, unless he bikes a wrecked bike and fixed it up.

you have a factory defect, they should cover that for free. I've NEVER seen a bike do that with your miles, or ridden normally, you may have a valve guide seal that came apart, or broken piston ring, hard to say without hearing the engine and actually seeing the bike.

so what if we spend trillions dollars we dont have, so what if the stock market crashes, so what if everyone loses their jobs, so what if foreign countries are pulling out their support in the American dollar. this guy is spending us into a hole no one will ever get us out of, even his own party is getting sick of it. people were bringing up the birth certificate thing in hopes of him not getting elected, because they knew he was bad news, and didnt want this crap to happen! I dont know if he is a citizen or not, I do know he spends money faster than any human on the face of the planet has ever done in history. bookmark this thread and come back to it in 3 or 4 years, and you'll know exactly what I am talking about.

that might be possible, I'll get back with you before sunday.

Nice Job, I likes!

So you getting NOS nick or what?

probably the same... ah ok, that makes sense, I've never owned a bike that was wired like that.

sweet, I'll be down there with my ltr450 quad

cool, once you have your resistor value dialed in your good to go, the only problem with that design is the resistor value is dependent on the luminous intensity and current the LED's draw, hence it would be different for different types of LED signals. I've always liked my flasher turning completely off and on, but I guess everyone has their own taste, good luck with the project.

was that 600 ridable after the crash?

no because the running lights are 14v out from the regulator, turn signal goes from regulator to flasher unit, so sending pos voltage to the secondary of the flasher may be bad, but to the running lights will not do anything, at least on my bikes it has not, your just shorting positive to positive. If your worried you could add a diode coming from the running lights as well, but I would say most applications, if not all, would not require it. I'm using the transistor to invert the flasher signal, here is how it works.... the PNP transistor is Always On, because is has 13.5v on the Emitter, and will draw the necessary forward bias current through the 1K resistor and 50ohm resistors, it could be 1.2k total, or just 1k, it does not matter too much, we are running the transistor in full saturation mode so we have some give. when the turn signal output goes on (13.5v positive) it actually switches the PNP transistor OFF (because the base and emitter voltages will be equal, even running through the 1K resistor, since the base requires neg potential to draw current), this makes the LED turn signal light turn OFF with each ON cycle of the turn signal. The diodes must both be of equal value, and they also prevent backfeeding, the reason you MUST have two diodes is because when the Running lights AND the Turn signal are both Positive, the positive voltage potential at the Base and Emitter of the transistor must be equal in order to switch the transistor OFF. if you omit the Running light diode, the transistor will never switch off, and the ckt will not work, hence why it is also used on the running light lead. On your 555 timer circuit, you may be oversaturating your transistor with a 100ohm resistor, you may want to use a lower value, also once you do you should be able to omit the 47K resistor, and you can omit the .01uF capacitor from the design. I am assuming your using a 200 to 300mA TO-92 switching transistor, and not a TO-3 or TO-220 transistor. This will not work because the LED signal is already on, the flasher sending positive voltage to it again will not do anything, because its already on.

the threaded piece is EXTREMELY hard to get out!, take your throttle assembly off and look at how it snaps in.

I am not aware of a safe way to do that with just 2 diodes, unless you are using LED load resistors, or unless your turn signal flasher flip flops the output from pos to neg, which I have never seen before, if your using load resistors the schematic would look like this (this diode must be a 1A rectifier diode)... this ckt will draw 280mA 3.92watt, close enough to a 5watt bulb to keep the signals flashing slow, personally I like the faster flashing signals, it gets peoples attention. note this design will run the LED lights slightly dimer than they normally would be because of the load resistor in series. if you want full brighness running lights, with flashing turn signals, here is the schematic... here's another design which has the LED lights run dimmer for running lights, and the LED signals flash brigher for turn signals, the resistor value is dependent on the amount of current your LED signals draw, if your signals are too dim, decrease the resistor value, if they are not dim enough, increase the resistor value... thanks cmoosego

I cut off a link with a dremel, and put a master link on, I do this will all my bikes. its the best way to go.

lol, thanks thanks, any switching or rectifier diode rated for 200mA will work, same with the transistor, if its rated for 200mA it will work. I've never seen a LED turn signal draw more than around 100mA maybe 150mA at most for the ones with like 18 led's in them. If you are going to add load resistors, let me know, I have a design that I made that incorperates load resistors as well. in all honestly 100mA rated parts would most likey work fine, my LED turn signals only draw 70mA at full brightness.