since princess and gixxie have expressed interest on how to remove the set valve, and since this error occurs frequently with 06-07 gsxrs, i figured i would post the most detailed instructions on how to remove the valve and be free of the dreaded fi light! this is the tutorial i used back in january and have done 2 other bikes besides my own since then. i have also added some to this since the guy who originally did this tutorial took some unnecessary steps. hope this helps! SET Valve removal - 07 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Removing the SET valve will give you a bit more throaty exhaust note. Its also said to give about 2 horsepower, and this was verified with a dyno. You results may vary of course, however I did notice a bit of a difference in sound and it feels a bit quicker, but its probably just wishful thinking. Wiring Remove the seat. You will need to remove the passage seat later so you can do it now if you want to. Remove cross bracket. This is optional but makes it easier to work on. Use a flathead to release both cable harnesses. Apply slight pressure and push towards the back of the bike. A second screwdriver can be used to help pry, dont twist them though as youll score or break the connector retaining tabs. Pull out both harnesses, the grey one is not needed but pulling it out makes the black harness easier to work with. Locate pin 30, bottom row, 5th from the left. Yes 5th from the left. Black with brown stripe and green dots. Pin 29 (to the right of it) is also black with a brown stripe and green dots. Don’t touch it! Cut the wire to pin 30. Cut it far enough up that you can reconnect it later if needed. Like for warranty claims. EDIT: YOU CAN PULL THE PIN OUT, YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT IT Tape the ends with high quality electrical tape. Do not use el-cheapo tape as it will not hold for long. I always use 3M electrical tape. You can also use crimp on connectors made for ending a wire lead. Reconnect both harnesses, be sure they are secure; things quit working if they come undone. Freeing up the cables Remove the right side fairing bolt and pop the fairing out of the middle rubber grommet The goal, the SET cable Loosen the bolts holding the cable ends in place. Once loosened, disconnect them. It can be a real pain as there isnt much play. In hindsight, its probably easier to disconnect the ends from the servo first so free up this end. Prop up the tank. (Prop tool is in the trunk if you didnt already know that) Cut the cable tie holding the cables in place. Once you remove the cables, replace the cable tie with a new one. Its there for a reason. EDIT: YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT THE ZIP TIE You can pull the cables out now, or wait until you have removed the servo. Control servo Remove the passenger seat if you haven’t done so already. Rather than removing the entire rear fairing, I choose to remove only the side that I needed to in order to get to the servo. Either way will work. I’ve never removed the entire rear fairing so I'm not sure how much easier, if any, it is to remove just the side. Remove the 4 plastic fairing retainers. To remove these, push the middle in, it should "pop" in about 1/4 of an inch. Retainer pushed in Retainer removed and still pushed in Retainer “reset†and ready to re-assemble. Remove the bolt inside the “trunkâ€. The rear side fairing should come off pretty easy now; I just laid it over the top of the bike. Remove the two bolts holding the servo motor on. Disconnect the two wiring connectors. Pull the cables out if you haven’t done so already. Admire parts of your bike on the ground… Put the rear faring back together. Put the right side fairing back together if you haven’t already. Put the cross member above the wiring harness back on. Put the seats on and of course the tank. Enjoy!