ReconRat

There's some website that lists a few around central Ohio. Most are at boat docks, for old boat engines. http://pure-gas.org/ The list for Ohio shows 19 places with fuel that ranges from 87 to 93. http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=OH From this previous thread: http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=61239 There used to be a fuel station on I-70 here in Columbus that sold 93-96 racing fuel. People stopped there on the way to National Trails. I think it's long gone now... and also: http://www.buyrealgas.com/

No, not me. And I'm obviously very late in answering sometimes...

I hopped on the freeway to get home, and the first curve off the entrance ramp, found me drifting out of my lane. Over on the white line and off the roadway. Turn harder. I thought about that, and then realized I had a stiff gusty tail wind, that pushed me to the right when I turned left. Oops... Either think about those things beforehand, or learn to deal with them when they happen. Or both. That would be good...

Automotive fuel can have as little as 25% "gasoline" in it at the pump. Most of the rest is stuff that burns just as well, and is generally similar to gasoline. Straight gasoline is a terrible fuel. It detonates too early when burned. Agreed, higher octane fuels are generally not as powerful as the low octane fuels. Octane is not power, nor energy. And neither is density, but density is the big potential for the amount of energy in the space of a tank. So it effects performance in that way. In other words, there are less dense fuels that have more performance. But not always. It depends on what it is. The basic example is a high carbon fuel has great density, but the carbon does nothing for performance. The formulation of fuel at the pump used to change seasonally two to four times a year. In the Summer, it's to prevent vapor lock. In the Winter it's to prevent fuel line freezing. Don't know if it still does. With all that is in fuel now, it might not be necessary. E10 at the pump and not marked on the pump anymore: http://www.ohioriders.net/showpost.php?p=551153&postcount=11 What's in fuel other than gasoline: http://www.ohioriders.net/showpost.php?p=551664&postcount=24 from this old thread: http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=65051

The energy is actually heat of formation (J/kmol). The density is how tightly the molecules can be packed in a given tank space, plus the molecules. Less space between molecules is good. Close to the same thing, but the fuel heat released when burned is the actual energy output. Some molecular compounds just release more heat energy for their size (density).

interesting stuff...

just thinking... how do we know we aren't eating that now...

you never know, cab could have been stolen, cab driver could have been trying to steal the Ferrari. Makes just as much sense as anything else.

yes indeed, the abnormals have escaped from hollow earth and are amongst us now... sorry, watching scifi channel...

the battery is fully charged when it reads 14.5 to 15.1v right after the charger is removed. It will quickly drop to 13.5v, and then slowly drop to 12.5v, and need charging again. Each of the 6 cells will sustain a 2.1v for a total of 12.6v

There is still a federal law for internet commerce that says no to that.

ah yes, California... the land of fruits and nuts... and now vegetables...

Yota had troubles with his. But I think he had rooted his and had to restore it, before the update. Mine and the others at work were ok with the upgrade, no rooting. edit: yeah, we're waiting for netflix on unlimited phones... hurry up

Ohio Cycle in Wellington lists the entire fuel valve assy for $55. Call first and ask. Ron Ayers lists it for $42.07 Yes, I'd replace the entire fuel valve assy. With either a new one or a used part. p/n 16950-292-000 (old p/n 16950-283-000) fits the following bikes: CB350 SUPER SPORT 350 K0 US SL350 MOTOSPORT 350 K1 US SL350 MOTOSPORT 350 K0 US CB350 SUPER SPORT 350 K2 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K3 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K3 US CB360T K0 US CB350G SUPER SPORT 350 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K0 US BLACK BOMBER CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K1 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K0 US CB360 US CL360 SCRAMBLER 360 K0 US CL350 SCRAMBLER 350 K0 US SL350 MOTOSPORT 350 K2 US CB350 SUPER SPORT 350 K3 US CL350 SCRAMBLER 350 K2 US CL350 SCRAMBLER 350 K3 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K4 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K5 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K6 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K7 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K4 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K5 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K6 US CB360T 1976 US CL350 SCRAMBLER 350 K5 US CB450 SUPER SPORT 450 K2 US CL450 SCRAMBLER 450 K2 US CB360G US CL360 SCRAMBLER 360 K1 US CB250K5 CB250G5 CB250K0 (BELGIUM) CB250K0 (GENERAL EXPORT) CB250K0 (ENGLAND) CB250K0 (FRANCE) CB250K0 (GERMANY) CB250K0 (SWEDEN) CB250K0 (AUSTRALIA) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (BELGIUM) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (GENERAL EXPORT) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (ENGLAND) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (FRANCE) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (GERMANY) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (SWEDEN) CB350K0 SUPER SPORT (AUSTRALIA) CL250K0 (GENERAL EXPORT) CL250K0 (GERMANY) CL250K0 (AUSTRALIA)

Is the casting aluminum and the fitting brass? Didn't know that. The ones I remember were all aluminum parts. Checking... Yes, both zinc and tin based solder can be used. Zinc based preferred. lol, forgot about JB weld. Solder is easier to remove and do over. edit: could also switch to an aluminum tube, but preferably one that has a swagged/flared bump to keep the fuel tube on.

take the fuel valve off, dry the fuel off of it, and solder the pin in. (fuel line nipple). Or maybe some loctite red. The fuel bowl o-ring on the valve is a common part. Cheapcycleparts has it. 16075-GHB-B00 Honda O-RING (2.4X18.6) $3.82 (ebay $3-$10) http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/247193-honda-16075-ghb-b00-hard-parts-o-ring-2-4x18-6 When the fuel valve assy comes off, there is a rubber packing in there. A little harder to find, but Ron Ayers has it. Mfg. Part Number: 16956-283-000 $2.42 (ebay $10-$20) http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/262589 And you should be able to get bulk fuel line at any Ace Hardware. yes, I are an enginerd

Totally agree. Drawing a weapon is a completely new scenario, with potentially unexpected results. But in general, I believe that presenting a weapon with intent will cause most opponents to flee or surrender, even if armed. But there are always exceptions to every rule.

Was it the newark osu shared address for mail server?

yes, but I wouldn't push 6 years for that... risky... made me look it up, no shelf life limit listed... A-A-50972, COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION: CONDOM, PROPHYLACTIC (5 JUN 1985) [sUPERSEDES ZZ-C-001597A]

Tires are organic compounds. The typical life span is six years. Both years in storage and years in use count against the total. In several ways, storage can be accidentally worse than average road conditions. There is also a lot of oils in rubber/synthetic tires. Oils in general, will show a noticeable change in properties in as soon as 3 to 12 months. The shelf life of a sealed container of oil is five years. Nothing is forever, even glass will flow out of a window pane, given a few thousand years. It's a liquid (amorphous solid). Per mil specs, oxidation, ultraviolet light (sunlight), ozone, and solvent vapors will all degrade a tire. (MIL-T-4L; A-A-52408) Military storage will avoid all that, using preservative coatings, shrink wrap and metal strapping, compressing a stack for on a skid. Except for the Navy, which doesn't like plastic wrapping and metal straps. Typical shelf life for any rubber/polymers in the military is 6 years, and then they get rid of it.

It's all about oxidation, which is bad. Heat, sunlight, air/oxygen, humidity, ozone, high or low temps or temperature fluctuations. All aggravate the tire's condition and longevity. From Tire Rack:

Soylent Brown?

He was indited by a Bracken County Kentucky grand jury: http://www.maysville-online.com/news/local/article_8e4b7e4a-9860-11e0-b7bd-001cc4c03286.html

Fireblades.org thread: http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/55283-anyone-try-streetfighter-handlebars-954-a.html Convert 954 to street fighter handlebars, for handling on Thailand mountain roads: Four pictures down past the half way point. Triple is from HoHey Designs w/ Tag bars and risers. Need longer brake lines, throttle cables, and clutch cable. All wiring is plenty long with very minimal re-routing, except the horn wires. Discarded fairing. Link also shows British Comfort kit on a cbr929 that kept it's fairing. There are some pics on the internet of LSL bars, but it's not clear what bike they are on. I get the impression they fit ok on 2002-2004, but have to modify the fairing on later model 954. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&biw=1024&bih=631&q=954%20lsl%20handlebars%20riser&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi

yeep, saw that this morning. Pick one, ticket for 85mph or ticket for 162mph. Choose wisely...