ReconRat

The film was speeded up. Probably not much different than stuff done elsewhere.

Yup, 19.23 posts per day... But... why?

They are all sabot rounds? Actually, I've not tried much shotgun sabot rounds. I've heard a lot of people say the sabot rounds don't fly straight. I always wondered if it was a problem with smooth barrel shotguns. The Remington sabot round is different, it's got holes to let air flow in the front and out the side to create spin. Makes me want to try it out. I've only reloaded using the Hornady ballistic tip SST for rifle cartridges. Haven't had accuracy problems with those.

Each firearm and ammo type will have a degree of happy compatibility. My little Colt Huntsmans hate Remington 22s, jamming all the time. But work fine with the Winchester Wildcat. The revolvers don't much care.

yup, all the Remington Accutip stuff is made by Hornady (SST) for Remington. Big difference in price though, the Remington costs more. I'll stick with the Hornady.

Yeah, I was going to mention looking inside the rim. It happens often enough. I still think that popping sound was a bolt or part breaking somewhere...

I hope it's just the brakes. But if the steering wheel wasn't pulling at the same time, I'd thing more likely suspension parts. It's hard to tell without being there and listening and looking. That noise might even have been the power steering pump?

I never had problems with standard Winchester 22s, but the Stingers had a longer shell case? And a lighter 5 pointed hollow point. They would either jam, or crack when hitting the feed ramp. Causing the bullet to come out the barrel in little pieces.

Yes, a brake caliper piston stuck either open or closed can cause a sudden pull to the one side or the other. And brake parts can make a lot of noise, I'm not sure about the Jetson's sound though. Any part dragging on the rim will make quite a lot of noise. I replaced both once, when one was sticking closed and dragging. One sticking open can be just as bad. The result was suddenly pulling left when I hit the brakes, and then suddenly pulling right when I let off the brakes. Then it would release the pistons a bit, and everything would be normal again. edit: Point is, something broke and effects the steering. Either suspension, or brakes. The Firestone mechanics haven't found it yet.

Oh, if you haven't heard... Iran's one and only AWACS aircraft crashed and burned during a parade flight a few weeks ago. It was an Iraq aircraft that fled to Iran during the Gulf War. It had been rebuilt with modern electronics using Russian assistance. It had a collision with an F-5. So that's the end of Iran's early warning capability, it's gone. The fun part, is that the flaming wreckage landed on the mausoleum burial site of the Islamic revolution's founder Ruhollah Khomeini, a national shrine.

I think they got a little kiddie obstacle course for us weak Americans...

They sure are. Best friends that disagree on most everything. Both the Russians and us knew that was a snow job. The real defense is the Navy's Standard Arm 3 ship-board missile system. The one that shot down the satellite that was falling back to Earth and "endangering people, we had to do it". It works. What was amazing, is Russia's offer to base the US radar and interceptor missiles closer to Iran. Didn't expect that...

Matt, your sources are indeed the best chance to get a good replacement part. We're just trying to help as best we can. And there is indeed a milliFarad. Which means websites using mFD or MFD everywhere on the web for microFarad is just confusing. Using uF is way better. Because mFD might mean micro or it might mean milli. One typical convention is using mF for milli, and mf (lower case f) for micro. (Or vice-versa, I've seen it used in reverse, even more confusing.) A practice I don't care for. It's too easy to confuse the two and make an error. Usage in radio electronics where MFD is used for micro and MMFD is used for pico (micro-micro) doesn't help either. 1F = 1000 mF = 1,000,000 μF = 1,000,000,000 nF = 1,000,000,000,000 pF 1μF = 1,000 nF = 1,000,000 pF edit: I don't want to mislead. MF, mf, mF, etc all refer to milli farad. Uf, UF, uf, uF, etc all refer to micro farad. Any device labeled mF or mf is very likely to be actually uF micro farad. Somewhere some manufacturer decided to set a practice that still confuses people. Milli farad and nano farad just aren't used for much at all.

me too, one of those I looked up was probably milli and expensive..

Yeah, I know... but I didn't want to look up the ASCII code for that funny looking little μ ...

You have the rights to reload your operating system. 1. Try an OEM install of XP or Vista first. If it's cranky about Toshiba owning the original operation system, it will fail on the MS registration at the end of the install, using the serial number on the Vista sticker on the computer. DELLs and HPs will generally fail like that. 2. Try calling Toshiba for the "special" authorized install disk. Small charge for shipping usually. Good luck with that, Toshiba sucks for support. Like they often just say no. 3. Per Microsoft, if the manufacturer of your computer refuses, Microsoft will help you out with replacing your operating system. I have not ever known anyone to try this.

Front wheel drive? Maybe that was a bearing failure you heard. Maybe the CV joint on the left side. Although I'd think it would be noisy if broken...

ummm, the jokers in that Bob Vila thread might be talking about more than one model of drill press. The guy with the part number, is not the same guy that posted the capacitor specs. Sooo, make of it what you will. It might be the part number for the 16mFD 250VAC, and it might be something else for a different model drill press. edit: I also get the impression from googling around, that an old motor might pop the new capacitor. You might want to go up a bit in mFD for a replacement?

But wait... there's more! Bob Vila has the answers... http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Craftsman_drill_press_capacitor_info-Tools-1-T2013.html And searching the Sears Parts Direct brings up:http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showPart.pd?partNumber=OR90168&productGroupId=0009&supplierId=152&pathTaken=&filterPart=&pop=flush It's now a substitute capacitor and now $6.99, but hopefully that's the equivalent part you're looking for. Or so it says...

Yeah... not finding 16mFD capacitors... except at Digikey, and they want $33.51 for Capacitor for EBM Multi-Speed Blowers, and can't see a pic of it, no dimensions. Grainger got 15mFD 370VAC for $8.50 http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2MEC5 edit: I agree though, it's going to have to be a snipe hunt, take the part, and start visiting shops that do motor repair till you find one that matches up.

Air conditioner motor capacitors are that size and shape and connectors: Try a local air conditioner or motor repair shop? Might have to settle for 15mFD. Hopefully cheaper than what I see for prices... 15 MFD or UF @ 370 VOLTS, ROUND Round (Single)

Me too, the few times I've thumped my head, I was wearing a helmet. Mostly off road stuff. Once hard enough to knock me out for a minute or two. I'll take my chances with the helmet.

Yeah, sometimes I do too, go straight to safe mode. I occasionally find an infection that is reversed, it can't be found in safe mode, but is there when booted normal. Just depends on what it is. It's a learning experience that constantly changes. Argh...

Correct, and for anyone that accidently kills explorer.exe, just restart the task manager and go to the File pulldown, select new task (run), and type in explorer and execute. Sometimes good to do when the desktop is goofy, kill the explorer process and restart it.

Fabricating Trends in Motorcycle Deaths <-- Link We all know statistics can and will be manipulated and lie. Here's an article that points how bad some of that is with motorcycle safety. The article looks at NHTSA data on motorcycles. Notice that a point is made that the helmets make no difference. The MC fatality rate between states that do and don't have helmet laws, appears to not show any difference.