ReconRat

^^ yeah, what MJ said... patience, all things come to pass... or not. BTW, they didn't say she couldn't ride it by herself? heh? Don't go there....

Actually, I've had 3 people on one of my bikes before. But they were both female. Yes, that's a sandwich.

Better yet, when you want her to go somewhere, have her ride with me.

Take her Mom for a ride, or her Dad... That will make it final one way or the other.

I had various firefox problems after the last update. Fixed with Tools - Options - Main - Click Restore to Default button, for the home page. Change home page if necessary. Don't ask, it's just weird.

Don't feel bad, the first time I put rings and head gasket on a bike, I put both oil rings on upside down. That's some smoke. A steady putt putt little puffs of smoke from both pipes. I did it over again...

I posted on another bike, that a clean air filter is rather important. At the high amounts of air flow at high revs, the bike can choke and draw oil instead. It probably doesn't happen as quickly when under load moving down the street. But revving up while sitting still, it happens quickly. I'm not sure about really high revving bikes, but I think that even a clean air filter might choke when just revving it up sitting still without a load on it. It just won't flow air fast enough, and will try to draw oil instead. Perhaps that is what is happening.

Don't even worry about a head gasket if it's still running anywhere near normal. Only a compression test would tell for sure if there was a head gasket problem. (or removing the head gasket) Lots of simple things can cause smoke out the tail pipe. It's just hard to figure out what it is sometimes.

Actually, the price isn't all that high for premium motorcycle oil. I listed these Iron Pony prices from last year (all JASO MA). I would run any of these in my bike. I would not run the non-synthetics in a high compression high revving bike. A synthetic or synthetic blend would be better for that. Castrol R4 SuperBike 5W40 10.75 Mobil 1 Racing 4T 12.59 Castrol GPS 7.50 Honda HP4 w/o Moly 7.29 Castrol Actevo 4T 4.25 (17.25 gallon) Honda GN4 4.49 (13.99 gallon) Spectro Golden 4 9.20 (34.99 gallon) Repsol 4T Racing 9.99 (24.99 gallon)

yup, good stuff. Popular in Canada. Also the Royal Purple, it's popular in Canada also. Honestly, most of the premium motorcycle oils are similar. The Spectro Platinum Full Synthetic is the one recommended for sport bikes. Costs more I'm sure. Both the Spectro Golden 4 and the Spectro Platinum Full synthetic are JASO MA motorcycle oils. http://www.spectro-oils.com/products/4stroke/spectro4.asp

No problem, just paint them black on the under-side. It's a common practice on small aircraft. Silver or white on top, and color on the bottom. I'm sure that next big thing will be daylight sensitive paint, or temperature sensitive paint. Something that will turn black when the sun isn't out.

Geez dudes, the test in the military is even harder. It finished with riding a 6 inch wide ramp for a good distance, about 2 inches high. Hard to do when you look at it. That's the point, don't look at it. Just look where you want to go. I pissed an inspector off by popping a little wheelie on that ramp, but he passed me anyway...

It's still early in the season, don't over-ride your abilities. It's more the proper time to be remembering what you know, before trying something new. Not to mention that riding with the Coshocton crew on their roads is a humbling experience. And the roads are cold, and there is sand, grit, gravel, silt, road apples, blah blah... be careful. Oh, and don't be trying to eat any Amish buggies...

What happens inside an engine can indeed be strange at times. A favorite example, what happens when your air filter becomes extremely dirty and cuts air flow by a major amount? or gets wet, cutting air flow almost entirely? The engine is still pulling a vacuum, but now it has to be from somewhere else. The path of least resistance, is to pull oil into your combustion chambers. Past the valve guides and seals, and past the piston rings. Vacuum hoses can collapse or break, causing other strange things to happen. Like your vacuum controlled distributor advance suddenly stops working. Another one, what happens when a cylinder doesn't fire? So the combustion chamber is wet with fuel, and it sort of compresses and blows out the exhaust. Well, some blue smoke sure, and a ratty idle. I'd expect a possible backfire or two. But worse, the unfired fuel in the cylinder, wets down the cylinder walls, and destroys the film of oil that protects the piston rings and cylinder wall. It can accelerate damage quickly. Note, that's actually a front-fire, a back-fire is back out through the carburetor. A front-fire, a phrase I made up, is firing in the exhaust.

The wet streets right now are very treacherous. Going to work one morning this week, I found several spots where it was slick as snot because it was wet and oily. Both wheels were squirming around. You can't hit gas or brakes when it's like that, you have to wait till traction comes back. It's mostly down the center of the lanes. So stay in the wheel track left or right.

I saw that the speed limit changed on Hamilton Road, between the airport and the freeway/Gahanna. It's 35 now, it used to be 45? People did 50-55 there. I haven't seen speed traps or patrols yet. That's part of Gahanna.

Wait...If you mean it's just harder then Hell to kick start, then maybe the compression release should be used, it's got one. Linky about hard to start YZF426: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-116978.html Using a compression release when starting is a learned skill. It will take practice.

Yeah, if the head and/or jugs have been off, check to see if the timing chain is one tooth off. Easiest way might be to turn the timing till it starts. (Useless advice if it's electronic timing.) If it is way off from where it should be, the timing chain is probably one tooth off. It might already be set way off from what it should be, that's a clue. I've seen cars and bikes come back from the repair shops with the timing belt or chain off time. Warning: check and mark and write down what the timing is current set at, so you can put it back if you want to. If it's modified bore/stroke/compression, it might not be getting enough fuel. Spraying a little bit of starter fluid or fuel into the carburetor might make it start easier. Also another clue.

Not unless you're trying to launch internal components into low Earth orbit....

hahahaha, I did that to some people once, I sent them draft induction notices on April 1st. One was a girl, yeah, she was confused. You never know... If you think no tour in Iran, you need to talk to my Special Forces friend that spent his entire Vietnam tour in NORTH Vietnam. You never know... I will say the border between Iran and Iraq is getting to be quite an active area. Ever since the British left. (deja vu, this is like the fourth or fifth historical time British troops have left that area.) You never know... BTW, you know who around here says "You never know" all the time? A young Iranian gal co-worker. She said that all the time. You never know...

http://www.google.com/intl/en/landing/cadie/index.html

There are so many mistakes here, I don't know what to say... Do what JRMIII says, and use JASO MA/MB/MA1/MA2 rated oil. Do use whatever your owner's manual or service manual says to use. JASO MA is the standard for motorcycle oil. JASO MB is for engines with a dry clutch, not wet clutch. JASO MB is for light duty engines. JASO MA1 and MA2 are for newer bikes with catalytic converters. JASO MA1 has some friction modifiers making it easier to shift, but might make the clutch slip on some bikes. Yamaha appears to be recommending JASO MA1 for some of it's newer bikes, to make them easier to shift. JASO MA2 is the newer rating for the older JASO MA rating. So basically almost every bike needs to be using the JASO MA or MA2 oil. Why: Friction modifiers in oils newer than the old SG rating can cause motorcycle wet clutches to slip. So JASO ratings were created. Good SG basic oil is perfectly ok to use in older design engines, but it's getting hard to find. JASO MA oil can have additive content too high for catalytic converters on the newer bikes, so JASO MA1 and MA2 were created. Note that Harley recommends Harley oil, and if you can't find it, they recommend Rotella engine oil as an acceptable substitute. (engines with a dry clutch, not a wet clutch) Rotella engine oil is not recommended by Rotella for aircraft engines. Rotella engine oil does not have a recommendation by Rotella for or against motorcycle engines. Because of the changes in both car and motorcycle engine designs, there are many engine oils that will create an abnormal amount of sulfated ash in the engine oil. Sulfated ash is sludge. It looks like little chunks of carbon, but it's much softer than carbon deposits. Watch for it, and if you see it, you need to change the type of oil you are using.

Note that like all rules and regulations, it is always out of date. It appears that those shoes with wheels on them, Heelys, qualify as a "vehicle", and a drunk wearing them could be charged with OVI per the current interpretation of the law.

"Vehicle" and "motor vehicle" are defined in a separate section at the beginning of the code for Title 45: chapter 4501: Translation --> blah blah blah