GRN96WS6

That stinks man sounds all too familiar for me though

No DO NOT use the blade on the paint it will scratch it badly. Maybe try some bug/tar remover that stuff is pretty strong. If that does not work maybe get a clay bar from the auto store and try that.

I'll second Sam's warm welcome and compliment on your car smile.gif

Prolly sometime this weekend it is supposed to be nice so we shall see smile.gif

Yeah Sam I wanna use it on the Pimptra and the TA sometime also smile.gif

Nope he has the puller now....The tools are in his hands

I was uhhh......

I would say either the throwout bearing or the pilot bushing/bearing smile.gif

I have his puller still in my possession. I can bring it out Friday if that's ok with Brian smile.gif

No laughing here maybe a chuckle though smile.gif Sux Shawn I hope you get it running soon smile.gif

Make a post with the subject line ATTN: 614Streets smile.gif Then ask him your question.

N P if you need any help or anything pm me, although it's pretty straight forward once you get under the car. smile.gif

My guess is the tranny mount. Replace it with a poly one little more vibration but worth it for the added strength. smile.gif If it is not that my next guess would be the torque arm or torque arm mount broke

You are wrong Shawn. A wet system has a fuel and nitrous jet in the intake whereas a dry kit only has a nitrous jet in the intake. Someone correct me if I am wrong. I believe direct port is into the fuel rail.

Joe he was joking take a chill pill jeesh. smile.gif

You almost must replace the bearings whne doing an gear swap. Let me put it this way mine waso nly 90 for the whole kit. Would you rahter spend a extra 90 now or risk it have it go out and maybe have to buy another set of gears and pay for another install? IMO you SHOULD do it smile.gif

Yee Ha

Yeah you use this neat stuff called engine paint

Did you ever think that he got a fix it ticket from the police and he had to go lighter??

Rear gears do not require the tranny to come out I don't think. I'm not an RX7 expert but I know I did not need the tranny out when I had mine done. I got mine done and installed for $200 some guy did it on the side. I'm not sure if he knows how to do 7's or not. I could ask let me know smile.gif Also I have 410's and if you plan on driving your car on the street 4.77 is hella high and you'll get worse gas mileage and rev higher in the rpm range. Low end will be amazing though [ 21 February 2002: Message edited by: MR. EARS ]

MY roommate got his done at Mr Tint on Frnak road and its great. They even had to strip the shitty tint off that was on it. smile.gif I need to find someone to do mine also but black out my matrix on my rear window and not just put tint over it. If it's not blacked out the tint will not stick

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Renner: Uh, the pump doesn't always run with the key in the on position. Like I said, DEPENDING ON THE CAR, the ECU is very specific as to when it actually tells the pump to run. Most cars, the pump will only run when you cycle the key for a second. Some cars have fuel pressure sensors, so that the pump will not even run for a second with the key on if the fuel pressure is at an acceptable level. On my car, the ECU uses SIX different inputs to determine pump control. So, if I turn the key to the on position, and I can't hear the fuel pump, that must automatically mean that the pump is bad right? Nope. Let's see, crank angle sensor, air flow meter, engine temp. sensor, ignition switch, throttle sensor, and battery voltage signal. Yep that's six, if the ECU decides that it doesn't like the info that it is getting from any one of these, it may decide not to power the pump. Add to that the fuel pump control relay, the ECU itself being bad, and the possibility of corroded connectors on the pump, and you have increased this to NINE possibilities that could be the problem instead of the pump. My old car, a Mitsu Eclipse, died while driving one day. It had no spark, fuel pressure, or injector signal. A guy that I worked with at the time who was basically just a parts swapper, told me to just go and replace the distributor, since the ECU gets it’s reference signal from the optical disk inside of it. And since in his opinion, that was a poor design, it must fail easily. Well that was a ~$500 dealer only part. Well after testing about everything that I could, I determined that it was in fact the ECU itself. A $125 part from a used car. Plugged it in and the car never had a problem since. Kind of glad I didn’t just throw away $500 on a non-returnable (electrical) part from a dealer. When you are diagnosing a problem with a car, you need to follow some steps to eliminate factors. Could you imagine telling a customer that you replaced EIGHT parts already, and that there car was still not running? Just throwing parts at it till it runs is not a very good way to do things. [ 20 February 2002: Message edited by: Renner ]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Damn that's so true and sad thing is a lot of places hardly test anymore they start replacing parts

Sweet thanks man "now I know and knowing is half the battle" GI Joe

What is that Mark I've never heard that term before

Now that is neato