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jporter12

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Posts posted by jporter12

  1. Well I have done destructive recoveries on the computer several times, and never had a problem before. So that is what makes me think it is potentially virus related.

    But I can't DL the drivers because the internet doesn't work. Or now that I say that, I could probably save them to a flash drive, and DL them to the desktop.

    When I say the internet doesn't work, I mean when I start Internet explorer, it says "offline" mode. It then tells me to uncheck offline mode, and try again. When I do that it says server unavailable.

    I know the internet works fine though because my Xbox and 2 lap tops run the same internet.

    Oh, and yes it is a standard HP, nothin' special. Sounds like I need to get on their website and start looking for some drivers.

    Can you see other computers or devices on the network? It could be as simple as DHCP not working quite right. For some reason, my router makes my set the DNS server address manually on SOME computers.

  2. P.S. - Dude what don't you do. You're an animal!

    I don't do much, I'm pretty f'n lazy, actually! :lol:

    Strictly Street is the man in your area that can get you going!

    Based on it being a HP, I bet it IS a driver issue. I ahve one that I take care of that sometimes when I do a destructive recovery on, it needs help to get it going again. I've never reloaded a PC as many times as I have that POS HP..... It doesn't get much use any more....

  3. Cats are not the problem.

    If the front one fails again have it removed and get all the dtc's turned off in the vcm for those codes. It could be a possible cam or crank sensor issue.

    The first cat should never had been replaced.

    Legality.

    I'm not saying I have ever done such a thing, and I'm not NOT saying it either... :D

    I though cam/crank sensor issue also, but TYPICALLY those will cause a worse problem, unless the misfire truly IS random.

  4. J; what shop do you run in Johnstown? Would be good to know.

    I don't run it, but my good friends does, and there are only 3 of us techs there. Chevysoldier works with us, too. It's called Coutryside Auto. I'm only posting because it was asked, I'm no way trying to promote the shop. I need to talk to Ben, and the owner of the shop about maybe being a sponsor.

  5. Yaaay.... C25K-W4D1 done!! 21 degrees tonight

    The 5 minute segments were tough, especially on the snow covered ice, & after only 90 sec walk in between segments.... But I DID IT!!

    Way to go Fonz! My lazy ass feels the cold and rushes back to the couch! :lol:

  6. Basically yes. However there are exceptions. For example, turn a MAF the wrong way around when installing it and it will cause weird fluctuations between lean/rich causing the light to come on on your GTO.......don't ask. lol

    I'm surprised that didn't cause the PCM to throw out the MAF data as invalid, rely on the MAP as a backup, and throw the light on to tell you that you're an idiot! :lol:

  7. You probably don't have all the drivers loaded for the pc' date=' in particular the NIC card (network interface card).[/quote']

    My guess also, but I wasn't going to go that far, since there are so many NIC variations out there to try to help find a driver for....

    BMWboy, you might want to download the drivers that go to the motherboard in your system.

    Is this a manufatured system, or a custom build? For a mfg'd system (Dell, HP, Gateway) you can get the drivers from their site. If it's a custom built, you'd have to find out what motherboard is in it, and go to their sute and get the drivers. If it's an add-in NIC, find the model of the card and go to the site and get the drivers.... See a pattern here? :lol:

  8. I know' date=' I'm betting that the O2 sensors and both convertors were fine, the cause of the misfires is most likely still the original and elusive problem, I think it led to the cat/O2 codes.

    With the mileage on the car I don't doubt the plugs and cables were needed, but probably not the cats (at this point anyway).[/quote']

    Most people don't realizr the O2 sensors don't last forever! They have a LIMITED service life. They SHOULD be a regular maintenance item, but it's typically at an interval that's beyond what the manufacturer publishes. With that said, my Intrepid has all 4 originals in it with 190k on the odometer! The fact is that they ARE going to respond slower than they should when they get old.

  9. Invoice shows NGK Platinum. Heres copies of the invoices (so far)...

    Repair #1 page 1' date=' Repair #1 page 2

    Repair #2

    Repair #3

    I despise how vague their invoice is! At worst, our's are MUCH more detailed than that. We used to be vague like that, but it just ended up causing US headaches when we would look up history due to failed parts, new problems that could be related to an old problem, etc.... We put the supplier's part numbers on the invoices MOST of the time, or at LEAST a good description of the part to know where we got it from.... Most stuff we use is OE or Carquest, so if it has an OE number, we went to the dealer, otherwise, carquest, and we use their better lines of parts, unless the customer wants to try to trim some off the bill. It really helps to be sure what we DID put on it though! With brakes, Carquest has up to 4 or more different levels of pads we can get! It helps to know what we're dealing with!

  10. There's a simple way to check every piece in the system. A shop should know how to perform these to find the exact problem before they ever order a part. That's why you pay them that much. Otherwise, they're doing it exactly the way an idiot kid would in his back yard - keep changing out parts until it's fixed.

    Too bad there are MANY shops out there, and even MORE stealerships that fix cars this way. :nono:

    With that coil problem I had, you could test the coil cold and it showed fine. When it heated up, that's when it would act up. The coil (or coils packs) can be tough or impossible to find with a voltmeter. I don't know what the fuck they were doing at the Cats.

    Scope FTW! A faulty coil can be tracked down with a scope. Easily with an ignition scope. A DVOM CAN find faulty coils. Most of the time, when we see a bad coil, bad enough to cause a problem, we can find it by seeing what the spark looks like. Also, a scope on the O2 sensor can tell whether to problem is fuel or ignition, usually BEFORE it misfires. I don't even remember which way is which, but there will be "noise" in the waveform, and whether it's on top or bottom will tell you fuel or ignition. It's not a technique I use very often, as I can usually tell by other means.

    They went to the cats when the light came back on with an efficiency code after they thought the misfire was gone. The cat efficiency test that the PCM runs CANNOT be accurate with an engine that may be missing. I'm going to call the cat codes bogus until the misfires are 100% gone. It could be running rich or lean just enough to keep it from throwing a code for either, but still cause the cat not be work like it should.

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