Bubba

Tonik: Yup. I've ridden the whole section of 80 from 226A south. Pretty great road with lots of technical corners, altho not a lot of higher speed sweepers. Only issue I have is that sections of it are fairly "built up" as far as houses and driveways, so lots of slower residential traffic and many opportunities for pucker moments in blind corners and hill crests. Ride accordingly. We almost always do the Roan Mtn run on 143/261 (Great little ride!) and then either head south on 80 or turn west to Burnsville and run 197 (Note: There is about a 3 mile section of gravel at the top of the mtn) or do some goat paths over to hook up with 63/209 and on into Waynseville.

Not sure if that's 80 in NC you're all talking about. I've ridden 80 in both TN and the NC portion and there isn't a huge elevation change. I'm guessing what you're referring to is called Devil's Drop, which is NC151 off the BRP between Asheville and Waynesville. About 2200' drop in under 4 miles. Not scary steep but very tight and technical. Fun to ride down from the pkwy to the bottom and then turn around and ride back up. Hope you don't get stuck behind a car either way 'cause there ain't no way to pass! I was with a group of riders on a week-long tour a few years ago and a guy on Triumph Rocket managed to boil his rear brake (mostly due to poor technique) on the run down. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/35.4341584,-82.7300936/35.4571432,-82.7340182/@35.4457513,-82.7368543,15.25z

BTB: There are a number of places bikes get together in Cinti. Here's a short list: Weekly Bike Night Schedule: As riding season has begun for many of us (some never stopped)... we also have many warm weather bike nights available for those who like to mix / mingle and end or start a ride. Check this calendar of CCR sanctioned events. Tod Steinway is the Community leader for social events. Hit him up with questions! Tuesdays - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1) Weekly: Comet Bike Night (Northside) 6pm-?? 2) Every other week (ish): North East Bike Night @ MJs on Main (old town Milford) 5:30pm-7:30pm Watch for events posted by hosts. Wednesdays - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1) The Root Beer Stand (Sharonville) 5:30-7:30pm Matthew & Curtgenerally help organize this. Thursdays - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1) Last Thursday of the month: Cincinnati Euro Bike Night across from MJs on Main (Milford) 6-8pm 2) Knock Back in the Nati (Downtown) 6-8:30pm Knockback Nat's Neighborhood Bar = ask about CCR drink specials from CCR bartender Ben Groh. Saturdays - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1) Cars (Bikes) and Coffee at Fuel Coffee Cincinnati 8:00AM - Noon 2) Second Saturday of the month: Open ride leaving from Fuel Coffee Cincinnati @ 11am Of course, there's the QSL Bike nights, which are mostly Pirate Fests for leather/chrome/tassels: Colerain and Florence locations Thursdays 5-9, Milford location Wednesdays 6-10 I recommend starting out at the Fuel meet on Sat mornings, which is usually pretty well attended, then check out the Comet Tuesday nights. If you're not aware of the local bike websites, try AssfaultJunkiesdotcom, LocalRidersdotcom, and Cinti Cafe Racers on FB. You're sure to find somebody to hook up with.

I've been riding for 50+ years and I was never able to convince myself to drop that kind of cash on riding gear. Until last year when I found a like-new used RC suit for $400 on ADVR. Looked like it had been hanging in the closet it's whole life, i.e., never been farted in! I have to say that I'm still on the fence about 'needing' it. It's great for trips and touring when you're in it the entire day. Pretty comfortable and surprisingly flexible with respect to temperature extremes--not unbearably hot into the 80s and pretty warm into the 40s (altho you start to need extra inner layers below that). On the flip side, I never wear it for my day rides of 4-5 hours just because it's not as convenient as a two-piece system for the stop-n-go type of riding. Plus now that I'm old, fat and crotchety, it's more of struggle to get in and out easily....I usually look like I'm trying to escape from a kidnapping attempt as I try to wiggle out of the thing. As for fit, if you're buying new, the sizing chart will give you a pretty good idea of where to start and I'd recommend calling and talking with the staff about any custom styling you want done. Buying used, you're on your own, but if I remember you mentioning you're 6'3"ish and over 200#, make sure that you get the torso length long enough and the chest size right or you'll be uncomfortable.

Except that actions of others do affect your ability to choose. Riders who believe in the "loud pipes save lives" mantra are the ones who started the EPA mandates against aftermarket pipes of ALL kinds, whether or not they have anything to do with noise. Stupid squids who ride like lunatics in public are the ones who have primarily created the backlash of public sentiment against riders of ALL kinds and why communities are passing laws restricting where and how we ride. And the catastrophic head injuries that are seen in cases of riders crashing without helmets are the primary driver for helmet legislation. Believe me, I'm not arguing against your freedom, but I am arguing that your stated POV is absurdly naive.

I avoid this situation completely by surrounding myself with drooling, selfish, uneducated fucknuts. This way, I become an instant rocket scientist/movie star/expert on every fucking subject.... ;o)

I must take exception to this description. Many of the squids I've seen are brand new riders with little or no riding skills who are only "stupidly quick" in their own mind. It is primarily these riders who will fulfill your prediction of "Imminently Dead"

Holy crap! I just realized this ENTIRE THREAD is about pedaling....WTF. In the words of Emily Litella, "Nevermind." Same 3 things apply to MTBs: rider skill, weight, tires

Unfortunately, too broad a question. The answer could be every thing from a 225# WR250 to 650# GS1200 with panniers for two-up riding. Or from a $1500 DRZ400 to a $25,000 Ducati Multistrada S Touring....or a BMW S1000XR. If I was looking to do some mixed exploring on sketchy pavement and non-technical trail riding, I'd look at the Suzuki DL650...Oh wait, I already got one! Reliable as a 24 oz framing hammer, only just a bit heavier. But there's Tigers, a variety of KTM models, Yamaha Tenere, Honda Trans-Alp....the list goes on. Bike weight and tires are the biggest determinant--beyond basic riding skills--that will limit your exploring on gravel. Talk to Danimal. He seems to love the new Chinese DS bike he bought and he's put a metric shit-ton of miles on it without much drama.

Hold on....I'm trying to work up a good "Do I give a flying fuck" on this one.... ... ... ... Nope. Sorry. Can't do it. I'll try harder next time. Should'a kept this one locked.

Looked at some of the first video--the important parts--and just a bit of the second, mostly because I was tired of the whiney fucking "Californication" of the participants. My take... Moto-Dude, whose riding skillz leave a universe of possibilities for improvement, was a) going too way too fast for his skill set (I'm thinking 35 would be pushing it for him), b) doing everything on his bike BUT paying attention to his riding and the environment around him, and c) target fixated on "OHFUCKTHATREALLYBIGTRUCK" in what was an almost non-existent sweeping corner. As for the excuse of the wind blowing him into the opposite lane, there is a fairly high embankment on his right--where the wind would have to be coming from to push him left--that would keep +90% of the wind, gusting or not, from acting on his bike. Oh, let's not mention that the rider should be able to stay in his own lane in spite of any cross wind he might experience. Bottom line, he sucks as a rider and should definitely stay off two wheels and stick to his motorized wheelchair if he desires to live a long and happy life. Guess I'm glad he lived and hope he learned a few lessons along the way....just hope he stays west of the Mississippi.

Madcat: Yup. I suspect that none of the posters on OR are among the "truly poor" if they are members of the riding community. The kind of financial problems being discussed here are mostly a first-world problem!

Paul Farrell's "Lazy Portfolios": https://web.archive.org/web/20150516010906/http://www.marketwatch.com/lazyportfolio

Madcat: If you have equity in your home, you can take a line-of-credit loan out to purchase depreciable items like cars, usually at lower interest rate than a personal loan for a used car, and the interest is deductible from your taxes in the same way your mortgage interest is. The great danger is that, if you are unable to make the payments at any point, they take your house instead of simply repossessing your auto. Never overextend your income:debt ratio!!!

Here's the rub--every investment caution starts with the same disclaimer: "Past performance is not a guarantee of future returns." That being said, your age makes a huge difference on how critical your choices of investment type become. If you're under 40 and looking at another 20+ years of investing, it's hard to go wrong with any of the low-cost US-based index funds from Vanguard or Fidelity. Something as simple as the Total Market Index Fund (VTSAX) will track the performance of the US economy. There are more sophisticated but relatively simple portfolios that you can put together using a variety of low-cost funds that include growth and value stocks, large-/mid-/small-cap stocks, international stocks based in Europe, Asia, and developing countries. Google 'lazy portfolios' to find some recommendations. I'll give my EXTREMELY AMATEURISH investor's view of what MAY HAPPEN over the next 10-20 years, with the disclaimer that my crystal ball doesn't work any better than the charlatan selling fortunes at the county carnival. Right now, the US market is nearly at an all time high as far as valuation is concerned. In addition, interest rates worldwide are at an all-time low, with some countries--Japan, for instance--holding rates in the negative range (I can't even imagine how this works!). What that means to me is that it's an expensive time to buy into any market category--stocks or bonds--and it's likely that many categories will underperform their long-term historic performance for a period of 5-20 years. I believe personal tax rates will go up significantly over the next several decades out of necessity based on the type of socialist society the US is trending towards. I think that undeveloped markets like Asia and South America, with literally billions of potential new consumers, will offer greater opportunity for long-term growth vs the relatively mature markets of the US and the EU, but you better be willing to endure a long/bumpy/scary ride over the next couple of decades. And that leaves the the only reasonable retirement solution as "save more than you think you'll need" and hope for the best. Some light reading from one of the regular columnists on MarketWatch.com: http://www.marketwatch.com/story/8-lessons-from-80-years-of-market-history-2014-11-19#:vI5xcEANdDqzPA http://www.marketwatch.com/story/the-emotional-and-psychological-risks-of-investing-2016-03-30#:ct1TSAcS0rqzPA

Another nice bit of info would be the born-on date...

C14: The old axiom about maxing out your mortgage debt was predicated on the belief that house prices would steadily increase throughout the many years of ownership. Worked OK for most people from the 50s thru the late 90s, but greed and speculation and the practice of using equity as a ready source of income supplementation did away with that in the 2000s. No idea where prices will go for the next 50 years, but sure wouldn't want to be mortgaged to the heiny when the SHTF....

Old people are a pain in the ass...now get off my damn lawn! F'in whippersnapper....

Well ef'it. That didn't work...

Dude: I tried to attach a pic and couldn't figger out the new format for doing so. Gimme a clue and I'll indulge you. I can copy and paste the link from PB, but I tried that once and it didn't work. Senility must be creeping up faster than I thought! LOL

Tough to tabulate the meaning of poll responses from those of us who don't fit the standard guidelines. I'm retired, so no steady income. I live on the quarterly dividends from my stock holdings, which gives me enough money to live on comfortably and do what I want...short of the dream of the yacht on the Riviera. With no vehicle or personal loans outstanding and a paid-off mortgage, expenses are pretty minimal. I managed to save for a nice retirement even though I never earned more than $60K a year, mostly because I've always lived pretty basic and started investing in the market in my 20s: never had cable or sat TV (still don't!), always drove used cars, paid cash for affordable toys, and didn't spend a lot on the latest/greatest tech stuff. To this day, I use a burner phone that costs me $100/year. What's odd is that I THOUGHT I WANTED all that stuff at the time, but looking back over the last 40 years, I can tell you that I don't miss not having it. I'm in the process over the next 5 years of divesting some of my stock and diversifying into safer and less volatile investments, aiming for about a 60:40 to 50:50 blend; I typically do one large sale of stock late in the year, keeping my MAGI under the bracket bump to 20% for LTCG income. So at any one time over a year, I may have as much as $150K-200K in my savings (prior to redirecting the funds from the sale) to right now, where I'm down to under $4000 total cash and awaiting the next payment of quarterly dividends from my brokerage account. Not collecting SS yet and prolly won't until I reach 70. But I did just buy a sweet '12 KTM 990 SMT that brings out the hoonigan in me--proof that 65 year old guys DO have fun!!!

Sounds more like a bad start capacitor on the motor to me. If the end caps on the capacitor are bulging slightly, that's a pretty good sign. Not that expensive to replace.

Hmmm....full moon last night?

If you've been inside a carb once or twice, no reason to get it professionally done. Get an exploded fiche diagram of the parts and how they go together. Keep track of the hard and 'soft' parts in separate bags for each carb. If possible, try to NOT disassemble the carb bodies from each other and from the carb rack; you'll have a much easier time putting everything back together and syncing the linkages. (I got this advice from an old racer/mechanic at Western Hills Honda, and I figure he knows more than me.) A rebuild kit shouldn't be too much--maybe $25-30 each carb--unless you need to replace the diaphragms (if they're CV carbs) as these typically don't come with the rebuild kit. Pine Sol makes a great soak for the metal parts, and try to find a small ultrasonic bath to clean the parts like the jets with very fine orifices. Depending on how many miles are on the bike, the main jet needles may be worn from vibration--they're soft metal--and those and the main needle seat will need replacing. The pilot jets (small ones) are more crucial to smooth running than you may think; they are critical for fueling response at lower RPMs and to throttle input up to about 1/4 throttle, so make sure they are perfectly clean. Another fairly important tuning tip is to ensure the fuel level in the bowl is set correctly. You'll need to bend the tang on the float than controls fuel shot-off to get this set correctly. Fuel level in the bowl is typically set to just below the lip of the bowl, but can vary based on engine model and aftermarket tune, i.e. air box and exhaust mods.

Not an uncommon problem in wet clutch assemblies that have sat for a long time. Had the same issue with an old Z1A that was thrown down the road and had been sitting in the back of a friend's garage for a decade or more. The clutch plates basically freeze together--old thick oil, rust, oxidation--and the release springs don't have enough pressure to force them apart. Once I got the motor running, I actually had to get the bike rolling and drop it into 1st and then take it up the street banging shifts thru 2-3-4-5 under power while holding the clutch lever in. It eventually came free and worked flawlessly from then on. If that doesn't work, you'll have to pull the plates and either soak 'em to loosen them or replace with new. Also, if you're not familiar with the tranny in Kaws, they all have a 1st-2nd lockout--a simple spring-loaded ball detent--that prevents the shift forks from selecting 2nd gear from neutral unless the bike is moving.