Likwid

fucking people calling stuff green... One of my friend's wife works on an airline.... someone took this out and lit it up in a flight... while it's mostly water vapor... people are so stupid

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_wobble We need a fucking engineer to interpret that shit.... *cough*

I heard you guys use dirty needles too... just for the thrill!

That's some good advice too..... I've found myself in 5th going 35 and then realizing if I needed to accelerate hard I'd have to downshift.... so yah.... gotta remember this.

Good thing I don't stunt, race, and/or ride a sport bike :-D lol

Yes, but a) it'd have to be electrical b) that's 70-100 bucks c) I'm not mechanically inclined enough to try. But ultimately i was hoping to get some advice since I shouldn't need it once I learn, I hear from some friends they loved having a tach at first but now they never see it BrrrrraaaaaaaBABABABA Vroooooooom *pop* vrooo *pop* VVVVRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAbabababababa *pop* In case you can't tell, I haven't rejetted with the new pipes

Wow, good advice here... sounds like the general plan is, do what the websites say.... but any way I ride it I should be fine. If it says anything about me, I don't think I've hit the rev limiter... even pulling the clutch and hitting it hard I still back off before it does the Vroom *stop* Vroom *stop* Vroom *stop* Vroom that you get when you rev a car too hard in neutral. I <3 noises

I'm gonna vomit.... The bright spot of my day is seeing those avatars.... and now you took that away... sure it was disappointing there was tape... but at least it's better than all that cottage cheese

haha, I see what you did there!

So I've gotten answers from friends of "you'll know" or "when the bike is about to explode... shift about 2 seconds earlier" so that's not very helpful... I HAVE been shifting VERY early... like into 4th gear at 35 mph... I just thought the less noise the engine makes (or the less it sounds like it's trying) the better. I have since found out that's called "lugging" your motor(?)... and it's a bad thing since the VTwin is a "high revving" engine... so here's the question: Given the following information, when do I know it's time to shift? (keep in mind no tach), Tips, tricks, or personal experience welcome!! 2004 Vulcan 800 Engine Type V Twin Cylinders 2 Engine Stroke 4-Stroke Cooling Liquid Valves 8 Valves Per Cylinder 4 Valve Configuration SOHC Compression Ratio 9.5:1 Max RPM is 7k. According to a website I looked at (all internets is true) the ideal RPM for my bike is around 2500 to 3500. Using gearingcommander.com I find that using 2500-3500 as the ideal RPM I should be shift around the following speeds... but it sounds like the bike is whining when I do this.... and if I let off the throttle the bike lurches... so I have to keep on the throttle 1-2 : 15-20 2-3 : 30-35 3-4 : ~50 4-5 : ~65+ 5th : Should take me to 116

*generic asinine joke about being on one's knees* Good now that that's out of the way, it's amazing to see the gyroscopic power for a motorcycle... I know as a new rider understanding that the bike WANTS to stay upright is not easy... seeing this helps... although I wouldn't be able to save it

wth... how dare you change your avatar?!?

One thing I wanted to add after I thought about it... BIPD covers the person you hit... you still have to pay your deductible... that may not have been clear

I had just enough time to ride it to Sunway and back How much better than hand polishing are you guys finding the electrical buffers?

if I recall correctly, yes. But I have the memory of a goldfish so.... wait what was I saying?

Thanks! I'll +rep for that (how could I not!) Signing off for the night, but I'll keep on top of this thread.

Meant to ask... did you do the painting yourself?

First picture of her with a digital camera... I'll post more soon, and uncompressed and all that Shows off the new pipes

I'll do that, I'm new to riding so I'll go overboard and ride a ton (already did my first 225 miles in 1 week without a daily commute) so next detail may be as soon as 1 month away Did you use the same product on the Focus in the garage? Mind you, I think the bike looks stellar, really amazing... but so does the Focus.... so I'm curious if that is the same product.

Yah absolutely on 2, wanted to make sure I included that for other people though. You and I (and many others) may know what to look for when comparing, but some people go strictly off price and that can get people in trouble. 3 comes back to risk... maybe they see it as an opportunity to get your home business? I don't know.... just conjecture. 4. Not sure Could be anything... more discounts, lowered pricing to get more NB (sometimes companies do this in a particular market to be more competitive).... could be a lot of things really, but I'm just stabbing in the dark at this point! Hope this info is helpful! Moved this question into the first posts... I think your question comes up a lot... http://www.ohio-riders.com/showpost.php?p=234040&postcount=3

So question on the Nanowax.... is it too late to try it? Seeing what I did today I'm not sure I'm going to notice a difference unless I strip the wax off again

It's all based on risk... I haven't seen (and never want to see) the rating tables for both companies, but at a high level... 1. State Farm viewed you as a lower risk than Progressive and/or State Farm views your potential profit greater than their risk. 2. Coverages weren't equal. Sometimes agents will "match or beat" price while adjusting coverages (I know you said same coverage, just throwing this out there) 3. You have/had another policy with State Farm. ie, homeowner/auto policy 4. Something else we'll never know There are many different methods for determining premium for new quoters... some companies write very cheaply (lots of times at a loss) and than make it up in investments or other methods (like customer service or claims) Some companies write at a profit and then try to balance out with more conservative investments and/or customer service or claims. The industry (as most have) is very rough, things change very frequently and companies that write at a loss and make it up in investments were hurt by the poor returns and companies that wrote at little profit had a hard time because lots of people shopped for insurance. My suggestion (again just my opinion) shop around frequently... you don't have to wait until renewal, don't tell my bosses I said that... and look for a company you like... if you've had a good experience with State Farm and they are competitively priced no reason to switch to save $25. But if you shop around and now it's $500 for State Farm and say $200 for Geico take a look at other people's experiences...

Not that I don't agree with you (cuz I do) but could they be destroying unwrapped toys for fear they have something in/on/wrong with them? I mean, not like factory wrapping = people proof... just wondering if that's why.

I hear you there (didn't meant to jump down your throat, but it's a general complaint about insurance) No, I couldn't do it, I never have to deal with the end customer.... not in the direct sense of the word... I can't do it... convincing people to give me money for something is too tough for me... especially for something I can't GIVE them....

I washed my bike today as well. Dawn dish soap to remove existing wax TurtleWax Ice liquid clay Turtlewax Ice claybar and lube Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint polish Meguiar's Scratchx for tank and a few surface scratches Meguiar's Gold Class wax Mother's Chrome polish Not sure I needed all that.... also, has anyone tried Turtle Wax Color Cure? I have some scratches I can't get out and I wanted to try something else...