Scruit

http://www.metro.co.uk/news/879609-man-who-attacked-13-year-old-boy-over-call-of-duty-game-avoids-prison 16 week jail sentence, suspended for 12 months.

To be fair, he DOES have the caliper(s). Rotors are overrated anyhow.

Someone's getting an epic beatdown when a kid winds up with a broken finger.

It's a slippery slope thing. If they banned parents from exposing children to danger then how long before we'd not be able to take them shooting, riding motorbike, on a jet-ski etc. I understand what they are trying to do, and I agree that people shouldn't smoke in enclosed spaces with kids, but simply "banning" it is too simplistic an approach.

My parents both smoked, I never did. I have chronic bronchitis that stays with me for weeks every time I get a cold.

Why not pipe that exhaust into the car then? Wait, that would kill them... The issue is the confined space that they can't get away from.

http://www.grand-am.com/drivers/driver.cfm?series=r&did=1555 It was difficult at times to tell the difference between the whine of the drivetrain and the screams of his passenger... Hope he wasn't planning on gettin' any that night.

http://www.abc6onyourside.com/shared/newsroom/top_stories/videos/wsyx_vid_15990.shtml Thoughts? I'm vaguely amusing by the incongruity wherein children cannot choose to smoke, but they also cannot avoid the secondhand smoke in the house or car. Age of 6? Why 6? Why not 16? That's the age limit for buying smokes, right? Or is it 18? I think it's easy to spot a car with a child it it - the child seat is visible. I wonder if this will be a primary offense or not. People will hate me for this, but I don't think you should smoke inside a house or car where a child is. Now, whether or not there should be a law about it is a matter for further debate.

Thanks. Will let our linux guys check this out to see if we're affected.

Just grab the rod and pull on it. If it's hard then lucky you. Otherwise you'll have to work on making it hard again.

Can you pull the oil pan and check the bearings? Last time I heard this is was a spun bearing, confirmed by pulling the oil pan and feeling the slop on the rod. Pulled the end cap and found the bearing was smooshed down to paper-thin. Used engine was 400.

I get all that except... What is %s?

"Twice the speed means four times the pain."

I let it soak in PB for an hour before trying to remove the bolts. I have never had success with an EZ-out (either flutes or spiral) all have broken off and left me with hardened metal jammed in so I couldn't drill out. My favorite method is center drill then a thread-chaser.

So I tried to remove the bolt last night. Here's what I tried: - Center-drilled the bolt. Started with a new 1/8" bit and after 1/4" it felt like I hit hardened metal - just stopped cutting. Different drill speeds didn't help. Finally the top of the drill bit broke off and was 1/8" under the surface. That end was toast. - Tried to center-drill the other side of the bolt. Another brand new 1/8" bit. Same thing - about 3/8" into the holt it felt like I hit hardened metal. Same outcome (snapped bit). - One end of the bolt was sticking out 1/4" so I cut a groove into it with a die grinder and tried to turn with a big screwdriver. Rounded the tip of the srewdriver and the groove. - The other end was flush with the surface, so I welded a washer to it, then welded a nut to the washer. Put a wrench on it - wouldn't budge until i used a big enough wrench that the weld broke, leaving some welded material on the bolt. Tried this 3 times, each time the weld broke. (I now have 3 nuts welded to washers now. Dunno what good that does me but it's something) - Tried grinding away the material on the end that I cut the groove in - thinking I could grind enough away to remove the broken drill bit tip and then try center drilling again. That means taking some of the knuckle material away as well. When I tried to drill it was like hardened metal again. - Swore a lot then gave up. I've unsed all of these techniques successfully in the past. Just last week I had to drill out a broken bolt from my truck's rear diff. That came out fine once it was just threads left.

Too... many... jokes... brain... overloading... 1:07 - is that you MT? His pink pistol shot his pink pistol? For the record before someone else mentions it... The SmartCarry holster(Jockstrap o'death) places the muzzle lower than your junk (about level withthe hem of your boxer shorts so if it went off it'd shoot the floor between your feet. I hope. If he is still possibly facing weapons charges then likely he's not licensed or is under disability for some reason. When putting my pistol in a holster (regardless of which holster I use) I don't press on the pistol grip - I push on the hammer (down) so that if the trigger snags (DA/SA) then I'll know it.

It is my duty and self-appointed Wingman to determine the eligibilty of said wife for the purposes of "laying". Please post pics of wife and my level of support will be based upon how much I like what I see. Oh, and when it comes to clothing in pics of wives: Less is more. (wink).

Riding all this week. Weather looks good. Plus my cage is grounded with damaged steering knuckles and balljoints so it's bike or walk.

Not enough room in my pants for a Derringer, never mind a Desert Eagle, when you consider the space taken up by my marriage tackle. Didn't I hear you once say you could "conceal my glock in a speedo"? Plenty space left then, huh?

Size isn't everything - otherwise we'd all be carrying a Desert Eagle.

Looks like he already macgyver'ed the front bumper. Or did Audi (?) run out of silver paint and have to finish his car in blue?

Irony is that I have a 3-bay climate controlled workshop at my house with air tools, drill press, grinder, welder and the whole works... But those three bays are taken up by: 1) truck body on jack stands 2) Truck chassis on stands and 3) Motorbike/lawn tractor/snow blower/kid's electric car etc. So I was working with two trolley jacks out front of the workshop. Even more fun was when I got done for the night I looked at the hood - the snow had melted - then refroze into ice. I could throw the wheels back on the truck chassis and roll out out of there to make room for the Subaru - but the subaru is now on jacks right in front of that bay so I'd have to reassemble the subaru to move it. Now my 30 minute free job is a 5 hour job over 3 days costing $300. FML.

I've been looking around and found that this is a common occurrence and it's quicker and easier to replace the nuckle like I did. Other people claim to have fixed the knuckle by drilling and re-tapping but that it took many, many hours to do. I broke both sides. I may try that with the old knuckles and sell them on ebay or something - but this is my DD and I can't get work without it (unless it get above 20F in the morning and I can ride) Did I mention that as soon as the first pinch bolt snapped it started snowing? and it was below freezing? And I couldn't find my mecanhix gloves so I was working with numb hands. I love working on cars - unless I HAVE to. I could spend hundreds of hours rebuilding my truck and the time would fly - but 1 hour kneeling in the snow trying to unstake an axle nut and wrench the damn thing off... Makes me want a new hobby.

Had to replace the lower ball joints on my Subaru yesterday. As I was removing the pinch bolt that holdes the balljoint in the knuckle the bolt snapped. It's about 1/2 deep in there and siezed bad enough that the 15mm bolt sheared right off. Had to buy new knuckles (both sides broke!). I'm worted now, but it raised a question in my mind... When something like this happens on a customer's vehicle (bolt breaks during removal, not due to negligence, and requires a more expensive part to be replaced... What happens? In my case - if you were doing the balljoints on my car where you work and the bolt on the knuckle snapped then do you call the customer to approve the extra cost of replacing the knuckle? Call to approve the labor trying to get the bolt out? Replace the knuckle yourself and call it the cost of doing business? BTW Anyone who thinks they can get this broken bolts out is welcome to offer ideas. Best I could think of was to drill the bolt out until there was onyl shards the bolt thread lef tin the hol and pick those out with tweezers. Done than many times. I also broke a bole on the caliper support so I tried that there - centerpunched and drilled right until I could see the threads - bolt threads still wouldn't come out. When I managed to get one shard of thread to stick out a little I grabbed it with needle-nose pliers but even that wouldn't let me pull the bolt threads out of the hole threads. It was nuts. When I saw how deep the broken bolt in the knuckle was I just threw my hands up and ordered two new knuckles ($120 a side) I'll take a pic tonight. Centerpunching it out counter-clockwise wouldn't work. Cutting a groove for a screwdriver wouldn't work. I don't do ez-outs becuase they ALWAYS break off and you can't drill them out. The problem is that it is the threads themselves that are sized, not pressure on the shoulders of the bolt head, so anythign I use to remove it has to be stronger thant he cross-section of the bolt itself. If it was level with the surface then I'd weld a nut to it but even then bolt could just as easily break again 1/2 deeper.

Win / Fail ?