mello dude

^^^^^ Ditto!!

Very cool and tastefull. ..

Thanks for the clear up photo - Looks like he fixated on the gaurd rail and freaked. - I love that section of road going west. Its a great sphincter puckerer. Probly been through there a thousand times.

Holy crap I would love to play with that.....

That road really needs to be done in 1st and 2nd only. If you clipped 3rd you were over your head. Your statements and particularly the one above tell me you need to get some class work and soon. In the mean time get to a parking lot and practice hard braking and - practice good downshifts - Touch clutch, blip throttle, click gear, let out clutch. Be Smooooooth! (For good riders its near simultanous)

^^ I'll ad that IMHO the best "sporty" riding book out there is Nick Ienatch's Sport Riding Techniques - A most excellent riders book http://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334626152&sr=8-1

Ok - I suckered you into answering -- that road on difficulty is a 10 out of 10 - even for experienced riders. The spot you when down is not a place to be fooling around. I'm guessing you missed the loose sand that accumulates at the bottom of the corner, and you hit the front brake and got spit off. The experienced rider advise? Get another thousand miles or 2 before you go back. But if you have to, at the bottom of the hill you need to be in 1st gear, feather the rear brake, and stay wide in the corner. The hairpin drops elevation and will bite you. Just get through it. I've lost count of how many crashes on that road I've seen or heard about. And I did do the mistake of taking a newbie though there. - Yeah, he wrecked. Please take heed of what the experienced riders here are saying. Riding well takes time to build up the skills. Dont assume that you can instantly "get it."

Exarch - you wrecked at the hairpin at the bottom of the hill at RT350 around the Ft Ancient loop? - That's one nasty road. Its a newbie rider crash magnet.

Fine lookn machine - welcome to the sickness....

Agree with this - backtrack the basics first....

- You kinda need to start over --- pull the battery after an overnite charge and go to autozone or batterys plus and get it load tested. The first point is the charging system is worthless without a good battery. Decide good/bad and go from there. If it wont turn over with a known good battery, you may have starter motor type issues. - I might just say effe it and do a car battery jump. If you get it running == Go through this starting point list. Steps: - With good battery fire it up. Run at fast idle for a couple minutes. These are R/R quick checks--- do first.. --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? Whats the nunbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. - Check stator - 1. pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. Whats the numbers? Should be less than 1.0 ohms. - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15ish and climb 50ish and more. -- Do again with the bike hot. For even more detail on it heres a chart from electrosport. http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf As far as components for your ride, I wouldnt buy something off ebay unless you know what it is. "Bike was running" could mean anything. - I would jump for an updated MOSFET part or a "series" type R/R. Grab a MOSFET from here: www.roadstercycle.com or series type from http://www.chrome-addiction.com/g-compu-fire-40a-3-phase-charging-systems-46974.php Compu-fire series # 55402 – last part on the list -- After heavy research I'm running the Compufire part. - It was designed to be a Harley part, but a lot of Triumph, Aprilia and Honda VFR guys are using it for a conversion. There is even a guy with an old GS1100 that is using it. (Yeah, it was funky to put a Harley part on my VFR, but screw it, I'm done. I have a slam dunk perma fix for the charging system now on the viffer.) -Series R/R have an advantange over a MOSFET part in that it only switches "on" when voltage is needed vs other is "on" full time and dumps excess voltage as heat. - Sort of just enough throttle on vs full time throttle and brakes on to control speed. - Other benefits is the stator lasts longer because its not "on" full time, and then because of the this, the bike runs cooler too. If you get where you need a stator get it rewound here http://www.customrewind.com/ Good luck

+1 --- Been going there 10 years at least.....

Were the parents fucking stupid? Gas cans all over the house? They let it go on for months? Unfucking believeable!

I'm running one of these in the VFR http://www.motydesign.com/ The last time it needed a charge I just stuck on my cheapo Harbor Freight bike charger, & worked out just fine. Generally the battery holds a charge for a long time. I like it so far. If you want to buy a charger for them, MOTY sells those too.

Welcome - my neighbor has a mint 70ish CB175 very close to your scramber bike. Is it a 175 too?

Thats some pretty good pics - hadnt thought about a leak, but you can see if you get fluid behind the plunger(piston) its not gonna be good.

If I had a 6th gen, I dunno if I would be looking at soft side bags, unless you setup some kind of fixed rack, the bags can get burnt by the exhaust and they do bounce around quite a bit. -- I wouldnt put a camera in them. On that bike, hard bags are about the only thing that would work out for the saddle bag style. I think its better to look at a top mount solution, maybe a rack and bag or if you gotta eke out cheap, JC Witney has top box with a lock. Its not super quality, but would work. - Theres a guy over on VFRD that sells racks that mount on the 6th gen that would do it. Also there are other rack options out there. A plus is your significant other can use it for a back rest.

-Each pump untill you are done. Every master cylinder design can be a little different but the idea is that if the piston is over stroked, some brake fluid can get behind the piston and you are semi-hosed. Then the only way to fix if you did that is disassembly. - To remind myself to not screw up, I like to tape a small piece of wood on the end of the bar, usually like 3/4 inch thick so there's no way in BFE I can overstroke the thing. -- The same thing can happen on the rear. I've seen umpteen threads where guys have effed up this.... See the idea?

Good luck to you dude!

I had simular issues when I added new lines on my brake redo with RC51 M/C and calipers. I did a couple sessons of bleed it, let it set a day and a few days later dit it again. It wouldnt hurt to bleed yours again. Since you have speed bleeders, try pumping the levers to push fluid thru the system. (- Dont pull the levers all the way back! Leave about an inch between the grip and the lever, and then let the lever back out) - A good brake fluid to use is Valvoline synthetic. I have used in a lot of bikes with no problems.

You might consider the Ventura pack system. http://www.ventura-mca.com/ I have used mine for years and it works great. Mounts on the bike in 5 minutes and the pack stays put. If you get a new bike just buy the rack and reuse the existing pack.

VFR800 is consistantly around 40mpg. -- Valkyrie is a gas hog at 28 - 29 mpg. (Six carbs will do that to ya.) (Cool thread)

i wouldnt freak over the valve check - viffers tend to stay in spec a long time. There are some guys who havent checked theres at all with some higher mileage. I'm gonna wait till I hit around 32k to decide to plan when to do mine. (I checked my 4th gen at 23k and everthing was in spec.) -- VTEC valve check? Yea, def farm that to Hoblick, its a major pain in the ass.

ND - caught that your ride is feature photoed on VFRD. -- Its a great forum of viffer junkies and geeks. Lots of tech minded fooles too (myself included)