mello dude

Just takes a few bucks to upgrade and clean up the issues. - Can u say power commander?

You can get a nice viffer - 5th or 6th gen for in the range of 3k to 5k depending what you want.

Cool -- - Sounds good...nothing like having your ride up to full snuff..... I'll be happy to chase that 6 (or visa versa) though some twists if you get time...

Dayton powder coat source?

^^^ Basically yes.... but its good to do a sano job of a wire hook up. The leads on the meter are something like 28 gage and kinda wimpy. So the wires need to be routed so theres no stress on them. Some silcone to seal it up and heat shrink tube is a good idea. -I'm not that familiar with the 6th gen wire harness, but if you do this, step back and plan how you will route your wires. On the 5th gen, the main harness runs by the left side of the bike and I routed the meter wires thru a shrink tube and zip tied it next to the harness and it all comes out by the battery. Then you need a fuse holder you can buy at autozone and also a rocker switch goes to the battery on the positive side. (battery, fuse,[1 amp or less] then switch) On the neg side you can go to the battery or find a good ground on the frame. ------- (Some guys have used a relay powered off the tail light to trigger juice to the meter. I did this at first, but in that set up, you dont know where your battery is at before you switch the key on. Didnt care for that setup. I like the rocker switch on idea much better in that you check the battery condition before starting the bike.) The switch on mine i have under the seat looks like...... Also highly recommended - add in a digikey diode per the sheet here. It cost a whole 5 bucks from digikey. http://www.martelmeters.com/pdf/QM_100V-40.pdf The whole thing is just basic wiring - some terminal crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, extra 18 gage wire, a few zip ties and some patience. Not hard at all.

^^^ Looks good - I wonder how those compare to a Datel meter? Looks like theres lot of ebay options. - I'm really liking mine, I have it wired direct to the battery with a fuse and toggle switch and leave it on full time so I can spot the battery voltage whether I'm deep do or not before I even ride.

Yeah - your bikes lights were bright as shit... - I bet those lights are nice to ride behind. Suspension stuff - check Tony Foale, he's a guru of bike suspensions... http://www.tonyfoale.com/

Yamaha over the last 10 years or so has worked hard to lenthen swingarms while keeping wheelbase the same. I think the effect was to get better bite under acceleration and better compression/rebound control from the shock. (correct me if I'm wrong gurus) - I got passed by an R6 on 675 south tonite at about 9:55. The guy had to be running about 85. Was that you?

Some Honda OEM R/Rs will go a long time, but it seems like a pretty good fallout of them die early. A meter is cheap insurance so you dont find yourself stranded. Also its worthwhile to check voltage at the battery at idle and 5k rpm on a regular basis. VFRD has a show your meter thread..... btw - I saw your run hot thread. Its worth doing a flushout and add new coolant fill. I'm guessing the bike still has the factory fill. I run the Honda blue stuff you buy at the auto dealer and 4 ounces of Water Wetter per gallon in the mix.

^^^ Assuming your asking about the meter, its water resistant, not water proof. Some have died in heavy rainstorms. Also the thing is not super shock resistant so dont mount it on the triple tree. ---- I like it mostly because its one hole to drill and mounts with a stud. Other guys have gone the datel route, but that takes a rectangular cutout to mount and I didnt want to foole with that. btw- my stock R/R went 10,500 miles before eating it.

Its nice to have to watch the trend of the health of your charging system. You know in advance that something weird (bad) is going on. Then you avoid the - oh shit in the middle of nowhere moments. Unless Honda has upgraded to MOSFET technology, its not a matter of if, but when that your R/R will eat it. - - VFR stators typically go 40k to 50k.

Since Honda put such a high quality charging system in the VFR (bullshit) and it normally lasts the lifetime of the motorcycle (bullshit), I decided that it would be a good idea to add a Lascar voltmeter on the bike to keep an eye of what is going on. http://www.lascarelectronics.com/temperaturedatalogger.php?location=us&datalogger=116 A trip to Lowes for some stuff and throw in a hacksaw, file and drill, and you get …. Does the job......cool...

I want it but timing is bad..

I used to develop airbag systems for cars. Airbags ususally are developed for a "zone" of most effectiveness. In cars the Fed, mandates the frontal test at 30 mph. I would be curious as to what speed the Honda tests were run and what happens to the rider after the airbag goes off. (stays on the bike? over the bars still? -whats the dynamic?) Also a big question for you is what about crashes with 2 up? What happens to the passenger in the crash? Crashes are all about the energy of momentum. The longer you can take to dissipate the energy, the less chance for injury. In your crash, you and you wife were probly fortunate to the thrown over the car and not hitting anything. That allowed you to roll out the energy to dissipate it at a longer interval and come out alive. Airbag on a bike? Tough choice. If the crash is a tall truck and your gonna hit it solid and not go anywhere, the airbag is probly a good thing. If the crash is a over the bar type, I might pick that vs the airbag if the speed is 40 mph +. Airbags are a fantastic lifesaving device, but its not going to work for all situation. Yet I commend Honda for pushing the envelop. Best wishes to you and your wife. Heal well.

I like it! --

^^^^ Not a bad idea to replace the master since we beat the shit out of it.

Not a problem, I enjoyed the "wrenching" for a day. Went pretty smooth considering not tearing down an R6 before.... --Quick thoughts - hot list - Change the rubber chain guard (#9) asap, as well as get a 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor and verify the swingarm and axle torques. Set chain pins with a "real" tool too. And do soon, the new boot for the rear caliper pin. http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2005/YZF-R6+-+YZFR6T/REAR+ARM/parts.html

The entire tool kit together is obsolete, but you can buy the chain tool.... http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2001/VFR800FI+A/TOOLS/parts.html

On my RFID card, I took a hole punch to it. No RFID, gone, gone.