mello dude

Holy shit!

Gotta make it to the Isle one of these years... Here's my fav vid http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?p=885555#post885555

Probly need to take care of that switch. Could be a partial contact thing going on there and messing with the circuit. Knock out the switch fix, and see if the other stuff is still there..

I'm a used Honda car guy and use Acu/Hon Specialities,311 North Main in downtown Miamisburg. 937-866-3777 Gary is a one man shop and Acura and Honda is all he works on. Does a good job and fair prices. He uses an answering machine, but the best way to get going with him is to stop in a minute to setup an appintment. He stays busy. -- (I hate working on cars anymore so I flip stuff to him and stick to working on my bikes)

The question is -- have they started? If not, you have options....

--Holy shit - agree with that!

$62.50 off bike? $85 on bike? Jeez - tell them to take a flying leap! My local Dayton place charges $35 off bike if I bring in the tire and $25 if I buy the tire from them.

-- You could go PR2 for $148.... https://www.denniskirk.com/michelin/rear-pilot-road-2-180-55zr-17-blackwall-tire.p543359.prd/543359.sku

^^^ Agree with that, I have had to plug 2 rear tires on my VFRs and I ran them down to the cords, and I have a plug in my Valk running around for the moment. Gonna run it to bald - replace it time. -- Its always the rear - what's up with that?

Running a RoadSmart on the rear and generally happy with it. Cant comment on mileage as I dont have enuff on it to say one way or another. - I think for rear, I'm comfortable going RoadSmart, PR2 or PR3. I think next time I need a rear, I'm gonna do the price shop thing and go from there. -- Fronts I think I'm sticking with Pilot Powers. I need to trust the front will go where I point it.

Been tempted to try these guys...... http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Agree with CSC that the kawi should have a 3 phase system.... -- To add more fodder to the mix..... --Your gonna have to do a serious dig into your charging system......-- Check to see that your connectors are good, I've seen some nasty burn up parts, especially the stator connector. ---If they are toast - fix first. -- Your are going to need a reasonable quality digital multimeter. Lots of places have them. Then --- ---Go through this starting point quick list. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish idle and in 14s at revs. - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks . - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Knock out the numbers, write 'em down and tell us what they are. -- We'll go from there. ......

Hi dude... 123 & 350 are some of my fav local roads to play on...

I have the RF- 1000 but havent tryed the accesories. I do have several size cheek pads that have been sitting around... - On your viffer, have you tried fitting a Zero Gravity Double Bubble windshield? It bumps the wind blast up higher. Of course like most things, there is a zone where it works the best.

Cool old bike, wouldnt be bad for an around town beater or cafe job.

Just takes a few bucks to upgrade and clean up the issues. - Can u say power commander?

You can get a nice viffer - 5th or 6th gen for in the range of 3k to 5k depending what you want.

Cool -- - Sounds good...nothing like having your ride up to full snuff..... I'll be happy to chase that 6 (or visa versa) though some twists if you get time...

Dayton powder coat source?

^^^ Basically yes.... but its good to do a sano job of a wire hook up. The leads on the meter are something like 28 gage and kinda wimpy. So the wires need to be routed so theres no stress on them. Some silcone to seal it up and heat shrink tube is a good idea. -I'm not that familiar with the 6th gen wire harness, but if you do this, step back and plan how you will route your wires. On the 5th gen, the main harness runs by the left side of the bike and I routed the meter wires thru a shrink tube and zip tied it next to the harness and it all comes out by the battery. Then you need a fuse holder you can buy at autozone and also a rocker switch goes to the battery on the positive side. (battery, fuse,[1 amp or less] then switch) On the neg side you can go to the battery or find a good ground on the frame. ------- (Some guys have used a relay powered off the tail light to trigger juice to the meter. I did this at first, but in that set up, you dont know where your battery is at before you switch the key on. Didnt care for that setup. I like the rocker switch on idea much better in that you check the battery condition before starting the bike.) The switch on mine i have under the seat looks like...... Also highly recommended - add in a digikey diode per the sheet here. It cost a whole 5 bucks from digikey. http://www.martelmeters.com/pdf/QM_100V-40.pdf The whole thing is just basic wiring - some terminal crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, extra 18 gage wire, a few zip ties and some patience. Not hard at all.

^^^ Looks good - I wonder how those compare to a Datel meter? Looks like theres lot of ebay options. - I'm really liking mine, I have it wired direct to the battery with a fuse and toggle switch and leave it on full time so I can spot the battery voltage whether I'm deep do or not before I even ride.

Yeah - your bikes lights were bright as shit... - I bet those lights are nice to ride behind. Suspension stuff - check Tony Foale, he's a guru of bike suspensions... http://www.tonyfoale.com/