BadTrainDriver

Longacre/end thread. http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1717&prodid=7317&pagetitle=Liquid+Filled+2½”+GID+Tire+Gauge+0-60+by+½+lb

I'm not sure which is more upsetting: the tragity of the accident, or the fact that Casper can only post a fucking clickable link...

I freaking loved my Zumo 550! I hear the newer ones are better still. Lifetime map updates FTW.

Seriously though, who hasn't wanted to assault a McDonalds employee for ridiculously slow service...

No personal experience with Rusty Off-road stuff, sorry.

Relocation bracket will work , but adjustable bars would obviously be better.

That's a solid looking kit, and I'm sure you'll be very pleased with it! Here is a picture of my 1990 YJ with OME leaf springs, shocks, and many other goodies. The flex on this this was unreal for a sprung under lift. The leaf springs would flex up past the point of flat!

I've had OME leaf springs and shocks on a YJ, and I've ridden in several OME setups in TJs. There is not a better riding/articulating spring and shock combo made, AFAIC. The limiting factor is height. OME doesn't make much more that a 3" lift for the TJ. If I recall, springs and shock are what, about $800? Are you doing a rear shaft or dropping the transfer case skid plate? What about track bars? Lowering brackets? Front brake hoses? Check those before you go dropping one side of the front diff. Make sure you won't pull them apart. Memories of working on Jeeps... Good times!

Directly from Aerostitch: Crash and Abrasion Considerations? Compared to leather of the same weight and thickness, Cordura nylon is a stronger material. But hides are thicker and heavier so they offer greater abrasion resistance. We repair about twenty or thirty Aerostich garments a month. About a third of these were in crashes that produced some abrasion damage. Several common themes have emerged. Though Aerostich suits are not as abrasion resistant as racing leathers, they offer significant and useful protection, especially at typical street speeds. Aerostich wearers often think of their suit as sacrificial in the same way a car's airbag gets used up by its deployment. These garments are lighter, cooler and easier to use in bad weather (etc...), but less crash-durable than leathers. On average, street riders seem to crash only at infrequent intervals. How gear feels and works during the intervening years of use and the tens of thousands of miles of riding is very important. Most street crashes occur between 20 and 50 mph, not between 50 and 100. For each Roadcrafter suit that was in a 100 mph crash, we get dozens that need smaller repairs because the rider fell down at 35 mph . For these kinds of everyday spills, even the fanciest leathers do not offer protective advantages. We make gear to help you use a motorcycle more and be better protected. It has to be safe, easy to use, and comfortable for everyday riding.

That's a fabulous looking platform to work on, and the rust prevention you've done on the frame looks great as well. Nice job! I've owned one TJ, but have built several, so please feel free to PM me if you've got any questions. FYI: Here's the difference between 31" and 35" tires. This one was mine, two years of absolute trouble free fun! Just a couple quick suggestions: Keep the hard top for the winter. Trust me on this. It only takes thirty minutes to swap them. Make sure to get the "heavy duty" OME lift if you're doing a winch and bumper, so the front sits level. OME is the only brand that I know of that labels each spring. RF, RR, LF, LR. Forget 31" tires, do 33". Even if you have 3.07 gears, do 33" tires. Fuck fifth gear! Do a one inch body lift with the OME lift, and swap in a flat transfer case skid plate. You'll greatly increase your center ground clearance. Your front drive shaft will most likely be fine(measure the slip spines), but you'll want a new double cardan rear drive shaft to handle the angle/reduce vibrations. While you're doing the drive shaft, do the slip yoke eliminator kit for the transfer case. Trust me on this. I broke my rear drive shaft in Kentucky, and without eliminating the slip yoke I'd not have been able to drive home. Because of it, I did. Front wheel drive baby!! Tom Woods is your friend on the drive shaft. You can even get crazy and do a two wheel low kit and 4 to 1 gear reduction kit in the transfer case while you've got it apart. It's cake to install! Gears. Do you know what you've got now? Don't even consider a lockers unless you're changing gears. If you do change gears, absolutely do a locker in at least the rear. A jeep with a locker in the rear, with it's front drive shaft removed, is a better off road vehicle than a open diff "4WD" Jeep. I also know this from experience. Do a front sway bar disconnect. Connected for the road, disconnect for off road. Huge difference in articulation/traction. See if JKS still makes their greasable one. That was the best back in the day. Most of all, have fun!!!

I purchased the Aerostitch Roadcrafter two piece suit(with bib attachment for the pants) back in 1999, wore it on every ride for four years/53k miles, and sold it for better than half what I paid for it when I moved to Columbus/sold my motorcycle in 2003. It was still in excellent shape! When I started riding again in 2007, I purchased an equally expensive Rev'it suit. The first jacket and pants were falling apart within a year, Rev'it replaced both under warranty, and the second suit didn't last much longer before coming apart at the seams. I sold it for pennies on the dollar. I would highly recommend an Aerostitch suit, leaning more towards the ones that they make in house. Look for the USA symbol.

That's a good deal right there!

I'll do it for $95, I'm closer, and I'll teach you how to do it so you don't have to pay again.

I'm not a fan of it being an automatic, but it looks clean from what I can see. What it looks like underneath is more important. Clean Carfax? Any paint work?

Besides what's been already said, put the fucking phone away. Better yet, don't even bring it. All it's going to be is a distraction, and that's the last thing a new rider needs. Edit: I see this has already been posted.

Do not buy a four cylinder Jeep, period.

As someone who's owned a YJ, a TJ, and a JK, plus worked at a stand alone Jeep dealership from 1998 to 2002, here's my thoughts: YJ: 1990 Wrangler Sahara, 4.2 258, 5 speed. Highly modified suspension and drivetrain. Tons of fun! Stock form: Modified: TJ: 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 4.0 5 speed, also highly modified suspension and drivetrain. More fun and more capable than the YJ. JK: 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 3.6 Pentastar, 6 speed standard, completely stock. MUCH more comfortable than the YJ or TJ, not as capable off road with stock suspension. With a small lift and larger tires, would have been MUCH more capable than either previous Jeep. My vote, try to find a standard transmission TJ six cylinder, plan to do some frame repair, and build a fun vehicle dependent on your needs. If summertime cruising with fire roads being your toughest offroading, you don't need lockers and all that jazz. Of course, if you want to be truly badass, build a one ton drivetrain, sprung over, 4BT, Scrambler. Stick a Blue Heeler in the back that will eat the face off anyone who comes near it, and roll coal on all the Priuses and Teslas. YOLO. Your choice. If you've got any questions, PM me. I'm pretty well schooled on 1987 to present day Jeeps, and there is a lot of wrong information in this thread.

For "that" type of watch, I believe the Orient is the winner in every way. Almost 5mm thick anti-reflective sapphire crystal, drilled 22mm lugs for easy strap change, it comes with both a rubber strap and a very nice bracelet, and it's a flat bargain both new and used. New is $900 or so, used in like new condition can be found for $600 or so. Timekeeping is incredible. I've had mine for over two years, and it's always been roughly -5sec per day. The Orient has much more heft that the Marathon C Sar I have, surprisingly. Thanks for the info on the Rolex, too. Very interesting!

The rumor that I've always heard why special ops troops rocked watches like a Rolex; they knew they were worth money anywhere in the world if they became stranded and had to bribe themselves out of a situation. Watches, yea...I like them. This is what I currently own: Casio G-Shock GW9330B-1 30th Anniversary Casio G-Shock MTG 910-D that's eight years old and worn every day for work Marathon C Sar Orient Pro Saturation Diver

To be fair to Aerostich(of which I'm a fan), it's only costing you $110 because the size you need isn't on clearance, correct? Aerostich does not charge a fee to return/exchange items for any reason you're not satisfied, so long as the item is in new condition. Money Back Satisfaction If you are dissatisfied with any RiderWearHouse Catalog item in any way, you have 30 days from the date of delivery to return it, in an undamaged and unsoiled condition, for a full refund, by pre-paid delivery to Aero Design & Manufacturing Company, 8 South 18th Avenue West, Duluth, MN 55806.

I'm not sure what you mean by " it doesn't stream through your phone." I use Google CC via my phone on my 4G signal, straight to my TV. It's most definitely streaming through my phone.

Did you request and receive the $835 back for the transmission solenoid pack? Was that part truly bad? At this point, I'd try another dealer AND contact FAC.

I agree with Tonik(God, that puts a bad taste in my mouth to say that), the FN57 is cool, but a terrible "bug out" choice. Also, what really makes the FN57 special is it's armor piercing ammo, and that is $$$. For a "bug out" weapon, you want readily available ammunition. 9mm, .40, .45, 12 gauge, .22, stuff like that. Coolness factory, yup, it's got that.

Complete annihilation of Islam. That's what's needed. Religion, as a whole, should be illegal.

DOYOUEVENLIFTBRO INEEDMONEYFORREARTIRES SHOULDHAVEJUSTBOUGHTAGT350 IMONLYFASTFROMAROLL TOPSPEEDUNKNOWN LICENSEANDREGISTRATIONONFILEATTHELOCALPOLICEDEPARTMENT ALLTHISANDISTILLHAVEAHUGECOCKANDASMOKINGHOTWIFE