bandit12

It gives me a break from the gun forums that don't have a motorcycle section and I have met a few guys fairly local to me that I wouldn't have met otherwise. I like to just sit back a read the variety of things posted and the pile ons that happen when some of the members here don't agree, lol. You've done good Casper, two thumbs up.

This sir, gets my seal of approval. Nice rifles.

Prayers Sent. <><

She's so big, when she walks across the room the radio skips.

Actually, back in the 80's I worked in a parts and paint store and we kept that in stock for one guy who had a muffler shop, he swore by it. We sold Walker brand exhaust and when our home store started sending us their brand sealant to sell that guy bought one tube and told us to get him Permatex.

Prayers sent, <><

Someone I know was looking at a bike and we were wondering if it was a salvage bike and the seller wasn't telling him. One of those "not the right colors" and "too god of a price" things.

Thanks, I couldn't remember but I was thinking maybe it said "Salvage" at the end of the serial number. The last one I did was in '99 or '00 so I was drawing a blank.

Are there any markings on a title to tell you that you are looking at a salvaged bike? I had two bikes that were rebuilt and inspected but can't remember if there was any difference in the titles of them and a standard title.

Curious, do you still have any openings for Saturday and how many in a class?

This guy blamed UPS for the accident and I do believe that I read somewhere, maybe here, that UPS settled out of court and paid him. Had something to do with the UPS truck not supposed to be on that road.

This is something I have always tried to avoid when my wife or kids were doing things new, I tell them to listen and try it that way and see which way works better for you. It was funny the first time the wife went shooting with the boys present and they were trying to sound like experts to her. This is something the wife and I will have to watch for, we both need to get our CC.

No but it helps if you can cuss backwards when you break the bit off flush with the stud/bolt.

I hate carbs with a passion and they have always been my pain in the butt thing to work on but my recent clutch change was rateing right up there also. Glad you got someone to do some hands on help.

Thanks guys, It's hydraulic. I took it all apart again today and went thru the whole works including the push rods and clutch slave/sprocket cover. Everything on that side was OK so I laid out the clutch plates, hubs and all the other related parts on that side and everything looked right. I grabbed the book and started reading it thru again and it finally hit me, I swear the book tells you to put the concaved clutch springs in backward so there was never any pressure on the plates, but in Clymer's defence I have never seen a clutch assembly like this in my 25+ years of tinkering with bikes. What is was doing is when I put it in gear and it just sit there and not even try to move, I had a full pressure on the lever and maybe too much because the hub couldn't expand any more. With the lever out the clutch springs were pushing the plates apart instead of together. I put five or six miles on it and it seemed to be working.

Well sum bench, I cleaned up everything and installed the new clutch and now I have NO clutch. Back to the drawing board.

April 2 will be 19 years for us, actually married for 12, we both get aggravated with each other but we don't seem to have any trouble making it work. BTW, it was explained to me that Marriage is a great institution if you don't mind being institutionalized.

Yeah, fibers always wear out faster has been my past experience and I'm thinking that the PO was in here messing around is why the thicker plates weren't at either spot by the book or parts breakdown. I have never had this much crap over a clutch in my life and I used to do KTM and Polini clutches on little race bikes. This is actually the first hydraulic clutch I have worked on in over 30 years.

I can buy that I guess, some bike make a lot of noise in neutral or with the clutch pulled in for that matter. I have a Clymer manual that shows those discs in the inner end of the stack, the OEM parts breakdown shows them in the middle and one of the Suzuki forums say they go on the outer end of the stack, weird to say the least. Have you guys ever seen the steel plates wear faster/more than the fiber plates. My fibers are near the bottom of the spec measurements and the steels are below the spec measurements?

The OEM parts fiche is showing them in the middle of the stack and upon looking at the parts break down again I think I might be missing part #14 clutch spring seat. Now, I got to go to the garage again. Edit, Not Missing, it is there

Took the clutch out of my '97 1200 Bandit and have this question. It is different than any I have taken apart before but not a whole lot, it has cupped spring discs instead of coil springs and a couple of the fiber discs and steel friction plates are thicker by design. These discs that are thicker are to be in a certain spot in the stack and that is where my question comes in. The whole stack is between the back plate of the clutch hub and the spring activated front hub so what difference does it make where the thicker plates are in the stack? It doesn't change the total thickness of the stack so I guess I don't understand why and where there are two thicker discs in the stack. Can someone in the know shed a little light on the subject? Thanks in advance for any help.

Anyone have any feedback on the Fly helmets, I'm thinking of getting a Paradigm.

The new game is a little farther down the page, Motorcycle Picture Game 2013 Edition. Here is the first challenge, Next challenge at a gas pump with nozzle in tank. Go check out the new thread, I think there is a rule change or two, minor though.

How do you think it would fit a guy thats 5'11" and around 150-160 pounds?

Damn Kawi, I thought you were going after some paperwork, hell maybe that's why you forgot it, lol. Congrats!