wacky_woodchuck

I'll check later when I get home. I know I have a few DID masterlinks floating around the tool box. Not sure if any of them are a VM series, but I'll look.

If the bearings are going out that quickly, something is wrong. Namely the housing ID is too tight (doubt this), the axle OD is too big (doubt this) or there is something amiss with the lateral stack up of everything (highest possibility). I would double check exactly how the front end is supposed to put back together. You may have the sapcers switched and it is putting too much axial (side) load on the bearings. How are you installing the bearings? I would toss them in the freezer for a few hours, then use a socket on the outer ring and light tap them into place. Or if you are squeezing them via all-thread and washers, make sure only the outer is getting contacted. If you are installing using the ID, then you are denting the raceways, creating potholes. When the bearing operates and runs over these, they just get bigger.

I'm keeping tabs on this thread as well. I have a few items that need done inside and while I can do it, a 1.5 year old and 4 month old, there's not much time around. I had some guys from Ridgeville paint the inside, they were contractors from the home builder and it was just easier to have them do it. They were inexpensive and very nice guys. But their work...not so much. Left plenty of unpainted/mudded areas that I had to go back and fix. It also seemed most of them were always behind furniture or something blocking them. After the 3rd time of having them come back, I gave up, did it myself. What I want done, needs scaffolding or some time spent being a monkey. Not my cup of tea. Who ever you use, keep us posted (as I'm another Ridgetucky-ian)

Turn up the preload a turn or two. Add a few clicks of compression damping. If it's still too soft, which is will be, just add alittle more preload. Becareful on adding too much compression damping as it'll make it harsh. If you have a triple clicker (ie high and low speed compression along with rebound) start with turning up the low speed a few clicks and the high speed one click. Adjust from there until it feels good. Always make a note how much so you can set it back to where it was.

There's two pools. One up by the main lodge, then the one down by the general store which also has a small lazy river. Best year I spent down there was sleeping in, riding a few hours to go get lunch, floating on a raft in the lazy river drinking beers for a few hours a day, then finishing strong with harder stuff for a stellar finish to the day.

Pure's would be gone by the time you get there. Get some PP2CT's, air them up to 38F/42R and air down to 32F/30R when you're down there (or whatever you prefer). Then air back up for the ride home. I've done the trip on PP2CT's before and had plenty of life left. Though I have found, if I don't increase my pressure's on the way down and "gettin' it" on the highway ride down, would tend to make a nice flatspot. Sure, it would wear away, but I also unneccessarily wore the tire.

Another thing, Sportbike Magazine always listed "suggested" suspension settings in their test articles. I remember reading them for the RC, but never started there as mine was reworked.

Look up Dan Kyle. He can work some magic out of the stock suspenders. On my old RC, he did the forks and they were some if the best I've ridden. When I had mine I matched the forks with a Dan Kyle reworked Ohlins out back, that thing railed and was a blast. Still a little harsh around town, but pick up the pace and she was fantastic.

I had one on my '00 SV and it lasted very nicely. The only issue I had was the bolts tended to rust, I ended up replacing them with SS ones from Home Depot. The stock SV undertail is horrible. The cutting involved etc. I used a dremel and made short work of it. The RC51 I ended up doing, was much more a pain in the rear. Looks good!

I'll be there with the SVRider group. Been going with them now for the past 9 years. I'll look up who ever I recgonize, but I'll be there on the Husky with Ohio plates and hopefully some OR stickers (which is cool how they are ordered now!) 33 days until I leave.

I used the 20wt for street rides and track riding with temps below 70F. Anything over 70 and I went with 30wt or a blend. I'm 230lbs and ran 1.0kg/mm springs in the ole gal. I did drill the out the stock damper rod holes and a damper rod holder would be a big help. I have a piece of 3/4" water pipe that I ground down to mimick the OEM Suzuki tool. A broom stick handle might work too.

It does and if you are picky and wait, you can do the swap for pretty much no money when you sell your stock stuff.But, it's easier to toss in some emulators for $150 total and see how you like it. The emulators will fix the floating sensation. They front end will end up being a tad harsh on road over sharp edge bumps. Like the freeway expansion joints or frost heaves. But everywhere else, they are great.

They work. They are better than the stock damper rods for sure. I ran a track SV with springs, oil and the cartridge emulators procured from Traxxion Dynamics (they modify the 41mm ones, as they don't fit on the damper rod themselves - Though I am not sure about the Gladius). The biggest thing to change, is the oil to get the charateristics you want. I ran anything from 20wt, to 30wt to a mix. But that was on a first gen SV and with the 2nd Gen SV and Gladius you can do the Emultors and get away with 7.5 wt or even 5wt, which are less susceptable to temperature change. It's an easy job with a triple/yoke stand. It would be good to do it anyways as the factory suzuki fork oil is like a 5 weight and there is always a ton of crap in there. I changed the oil two or three times a season. I would look at the Ricor Intiminators instead. I've heard really good things on them and they perform better than Racetech stuff. I never tested or ran them, as my SV was sold a few years ago.

On my first gen FZ1 I put on a set of PR2's. They have about 7000 miles on them if I remember right. A bunch of trips back and forth from Cleveland to Deal's Gap, tons of miles down there. Bike was fully loaded for a weeks worth of stuff. Back road miles around Ohio as well. The wear is fantastic. There is no flat spotting on them right now, I abuse the crap out of them in the corners and a straight line and they take everything I can throw at them. They are the best tires in the rain I've had. I will not run another set of sport touring. Worth every penny.

I'm not in C-Bus, but up in Cleveburg. My wife has the 4S and I have the Skyrocket. My phone is way faster than her's for mobile internet, google map stuff and pretty much anything else over the air. In wi-fi modes, both are the same. I love the Skyrocket, I was in Indy, where they have LTE and I was using it over the air instead of the hotels wi-fi. It was way quicker on Skype. I had a bunch of HTC Android devices and this is my first Samsung... Let's just say I will never own another HTC again. The Skyrocket is superior in every way. And dare I say, better than the 4S. Though, I am not an apple fan in any way. I'd much rather have the ability to do what I want to my phone.

I do not. Bikes been long gone. But it was just long enough for a few threads showing after tightened down.

It was an M8 allen head with two large diameter washers and a 14mm nut on the back side. Also there is a rubber insert in the rearsets themselves.

As a single bike, I thnk it's doable, but tough. And besides, with a tire changer in the garage, it makes tire changes much easier and faster. Plus after having it for 3 years, it's paid for itself.

I ran a few of the Dunlop D253, which is their Supermoto specific tire. they didn't last for crap. I'm running Pilot Powers now and they seem a little better, but not much. The Avon Distanzia's were horrible in the SM tread. They stick like glue but wear like bubble gum.

Well, there are a few levels of Sumo for the street. 1. Converted Dirt (CRF/YZF/KXF etc) 2. Factory Built Type Racer (KTM and Husky SMR's, Berg FS's) 3. Factory Built "street" (DRZSM, Husky SM610/630, KTM690SMC/Duke, various 250 sumo's) Each have their own merits. But for longer ride and tours, stick with the "street" sumo's. They have the best maintainence schedules and easiest to ride distances yet still harness plenty of fun. I have a Husky SMR510 and that requires 500 mile oil changes, 1000 mile valve checks. While easy to do, it's tough trying to pack light for a weekend away and carry enough stuff to change the oil on your trip. While it's a heap of fun and is strickly a play bike for short rides, it will do the long trip. I ended up touring southern Ohio on it in the fall. Did a little over 500 miles Friday to Sunday. While a blast, my ass didn't care for it at all. Plus, due to the single and extended trip the side stand bolt rattled off and I lost both mirrors due to vibration. But, it was a riot. While the fuel range is only about 70~80 miles, it's all I errr.... my posterior can take at a time. There are different seats out there to fix the issue, I haven't done that yet. Also, most sumo's LOVE to eat tires. Seems rears last around 500 miles, fronts last a little more than that for some reason. And I still have my FZ1 for those extended out of state weekend tours. Best of both worlds. I got rid of my RC51 for the Sumo and will never look back. I've always had sport bikes and while I enjoy the speed and track riding. The Sumo allows me the same feeling if not better, just outside my door.

This bike is pure fun in the Smokey Mountains. On the Gap it's a little work to ride fast. But on the Cherohala and other surrounding roads... it's pure heaven. The sound it makes, the feedback and pure enjoyment of bending into a corner. So what I'm saying... Keep until you ride the gap, then try to move it. I'll be down there the same time as OR on my Husky.

I'm 6' 235~240 out of the shower. So, I'd say yes. It has no issues with my fat ass on it. Suspension is even good. I can get proper sag with the stock spring out back. Front is non adjustable, but works good. No need to change it. Heck yeah, mini-club! You'll be happy with it. I am completely. The maintanence isn't anything tough and like any other Italian bike, it has it's little issues, that are easily fixable. The MV Agusta owned/designed/made bikes aren't all that bad (up to 2010). If I was to do it again, I'd buy another Husky. Actually, I'm looking for a newer TE610 to build into a great dual sporter.

There's an 09 SMR510 on Craigslist in Akron/Canton right now. I just did a 500 miles 'tour' on mine this weekend. Left Cleveburg went to McConnelsville for the weekend and back. I should change the oil, but it's still golden in color. Never skipped a beat and was a BLAST down there. On the Husky SMR510's, if you track/race it, 500 miles is the oil change (30 minutes) and 1000 miles is the valve checks (20 minutes). If you street it, you can extend those intervals, says so right in the manual. From reading up on the Husky 450/510's, lot's of mis information out there. Plenty of bikes with 10k miles plus with out tearing into the motor. My fuel injection is pretty good, does need some tweaking. All is takes is a $200 JD Jetting fuel injection tuner (or a $350 PC5). Sure, carbs are easier to work on. The fuel pump on mine has never had an issue. You do need to remove it and safety wire it in it's housing. It slips up, that's when it burns up. I've coasted into a gas station a few times. I get 70~80 miles before empty hammering it and 85~90 if I'm easy. I have a 3 gallon IMS for it, I just need to play with it to get a good seal on the fuel pump. I looked at the DRZ-SM, while fun, just didn't have the motor and feel that I was looking for. I wanted something different with a bit of grunt that I didn't have to throw money at to get where I wanted it (motor/suspension wise). I've added sliders and hand guards to mine so far and the jet kit will come over the winter. That's it. It has plenty of performance for me. I've already been pulled over on it.

I have the Tourmaster Synergy heated vest with collar. Works awesome. I have had it for around 4 years now and it really does extend the riding season. Also helps for those spring or fall days when you don't want a full liner, but need something to help the chill. I like the Tourmaster as it comes with a controller, is built really well, puts out some serious heat and was only $125 (I bought it the week they came out). I use it only on low and cycle it, as it get too warm. The only time I used hot was coming back from Georgia at the end of march. I reached Ohio at midnight. Once I hit Columbus it was 25F outside. I have a few friends with the Gerbing stuff. It's great, but expensive. I have never seen anyone with the Aerostich stuff, but here it's good. I just didn't want to spend that type of coin. I would recommend, if you get a vest, get one with a collar. Also, some people like the full sleeve liner, to keep their arms warm. My jacket does a fine job, so it's not a worry for me. As long as your heart is pumping warm blood, you're good to go.

I have an 08 Husqvarna SMR510. I'll get to my impressions/life with/etc in a moment. I seen a few of your posts, but haven't had the time to type up what I wanted to. Actually, I didn't feel like doing it on my phone. So, here's a quick run down: 1. "plated" race bikes (ie YZF450/RMZ450/CRF450) Maintainence - Oil change 3~5 hours, valves every 10~15 hours. Not great for street due to gearbox having tight spacing, tops out around 55~50 comfortably. Will do more, but you are singing that motor. 2. Factory Offered Supermotard "Race" Bikes (ie SMR450/510, Husaberg FS570, KTM's with RFS motor - 450/560) Maintainence - Oil change every 300~500 miles and valve checks every 1000 miles. High strung, purely fun and one heck of a ride. Livable as a play toy. Great track toy/sporty fun road toy. Ok as a commuter. You can do it, just not as much fun. 3. Factory Offered Supermotard bikes (ie Husky Sm610/630, KTM 690, DRZ400, etc). Maintainence - Just like a normal Japanese sport bike. 3000 mile oil changes, valve checks are 8000 miles plus. Everyday livable, still a heck of a lot of fun. You can commute, you can tour. They are heavier and they do not make as much ponies per CC's. But you can throw money at them. 4. Converted Dual Sport Bikes (Honda XR650R, Suzi DR650, KTM EXC, Honda CRF450X, Kawi KXF450) are okay, but can cost money to do this. Once you get wheels, lighting equipment, street title, etc, you might at well get a nice used SM all ready set up. If you go the 450 route, make sure you get a "X" or dual sport model. They have most of the ponies of the motorcross counterpart, but come with a wide ratio gearbox and it makes all the difference in the world. I went with the Husky SMR510, as I wanted a play bike. I've ridden the KTM SMC690 and the Husky SM610. While great bikes, I wanted more. With work and new kiddo, I don't have time to tour all day like I used to. So...give me the ponies. The Husky is one heck of a ride. It's fast, fun and a blast. Nothing like it. I've done two oil changes (30 minutes dues to two screens, cartridge filter and leaning the bike back and forth to make sure old oil is drained.) I did a valve check and it took 20 minutes and is super simple. Way easier to work on than a KTm 690SMC. The bike will tell you when to change it oils. the shifting gets notchy and it's harder to find neutral. It's been right around 300 miles. Toss in 1.75 liters of AGIP 10W-60 and it's good to go. The Husky has it quirks (nutserts that spin in the tank - easy fix, 65~85 mile tank range due to a 1.9Gallon tank, slipping fuel pump - easy fix), but it is a blast and I would buy another Husqvarna in a heart beat. The dealers are few and far in between, but there are some really great mail order dealers.