mojocho

Ground wires are good. I made that mistake before so i double checked that. The fuel pump is cycling when I turn on the ignition. I'll check my fuel lines. I did have to remove the tank to install the new battery so I could have kinked the line on the reinstall.

Let me start by saying I don't know sh!t about electronics other than flipping a switch. Let me also say that I am frustrated as hell and my patience is wearing thin. long-story short, I dropped in a replacement engine into my 06 R1. Over the weekend, I was able to finally fire her up. It was a rough start, but she turned over and purred on. I let her get up to temp and rev'ed the engine several times. After about 10-15 minutes of her running on the stand, i shut her off. Then when I tried to start her again she wouldn't fire back up. The engine would crank but not turn over. Although I had the battery on a battery tender for the last month the battery still sat for almost a year up until that. I figured it was some bad cells and ordered a new Ballistics Performance 8 cell battery replacement from STG. I dropped her in last night and hooked up everything. New bolts came with the battery to connect the wires to the terminals. This didn't resolve the issue. It still cranks but then eventually the dashboad lights flicker off and the battery sounds like it is draining and chugs to a stop. I put a multireader on the terminals and it's reading 13.08 volts. Starter Relay under the seat reads 12.8 which is in spec. I even pulled the fuse for the headlights and turn signals in the hopes that it wouldn't try to draw as much amps on start up to no avail. I will say that my Neutral light is not coming on so I've probably got a bad wire there. But it wasn't working over the weekend and I was still able to start her up by pulling in the clutch, so although that may be an issue, it doesn't explain this specific event imo. I put in fresh spark plugs. one odd thing I noticed was that i put the battery tender on the new Ballistics battery and walked away for a couple of hours. I just wanted to make sure it is OK. But when I came back it was still a solid Red light. That doesn't make sense to me since the multi ready is saying I have over 13 volts and the design of the new battery is supposed to not lose more than 10% of life even if sitting for a year (according to the mfg). Again, I started her up maybe a half a dozen times in the last week with no problems. Now I can't get her to turn over. Any guidance would be appreciated. But please don't send me a wiring diagram. I've got one and it's a foreign language to me.

just to close the loop, the impact wrench took it off like a champ. Kept it in neutral with no chain on but still Easy-Peasy! saved me a lot of aggravation. Thanks for all the advice.

I'd be game for this. I don't have the time or extra hands to set my sag on my new bike so I'd be willing to pay for that service.

OK, sounds like impact gun in nuetral. I'll try that. Never used one so this should be fun. I've got a decent sized compressor (20 gallon) so I should be good. @ Mag: yeah, i'm throwing it away so I may try the vise grips first. @ Rhill: for the cltuch basket I ended up getting a clutch basket holder. it was worth it. @YSR Racer: you're right. The front sprocket is 530 so it's wider than the width of the 520 chain between the plates so it would not fit. I'll give it try tonight and see how it goes.

Not sure I understand what the lock or screwdriver is for. Is it a temporary "master link" to connect the chain together? Or am supposed to brace it against the front sprocket? I guess if I had a 530 chain I'd have just hooked that up and braced the rear wheel like normal Anyone have a used 530 chain they don't want? Can I use an impact wrench? I was always told not to put it in gear or else risk ruining the dogs. I don't think I'd be able to use the impact wrench without some sort of resistance.

Looking for advice... A cliffnotes history: 06 R1 spun a bearing and ruined the thrust plate on the lower crankcase. Found a replacement motor and dropped it in. The motor came with what looks like the stock 530 17T sprocket up front. Trying to remove the front sprocket on my R1. The chain is already off so I can't use the normal method of bracing my rear wheel with a 2x4 or push down on the rear brake. I can't put the chain on because the front is a 530 and my existing chain and rear sprocket is a 520. Putting it in gear and trying to loosen the countershaft nut just ends up spinning the shaft along with the nut when using a 25" breaker bar. Any suggestions on how to remove the nut?

No worries Doc. My phone wasn't picking up a GPS signal so I got lost on the way. I didn't get there until about 9:50. 20 mins late so no hard feelings as that exceeds the amount of time I'd have waited. Next time.

Raining in N Canton...may be a few minutes late but am leaving now.

I'm in as of now also. May try to join ya'll on Sunday too if I can get some stuff done around the house after tomorrow's ride.

Work has been keeping me busy so I've got to stretch the ole' girl's legs out. I could use some rumble time to destress. Your route and pace sounds just like what the NinjaDoc ordered... I in at this point if the weather holds.

let's remember that this weekend is not about a day off work or bbq's or cornhole while drunk, or even riding on a nice day. It's about remembering all who made sacrifices, both small and the ultimate one, to keep us. Thank you to all who have served Here is an article that says it best: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702303610504577419973285034422.html?mod=WSJ_hps_LEFTTopStories

I would make sure your 3 can have a hitch mounted onto it. I had an 05 Mazda 3 and was told there was not where to mount a hitch. suggest you make sure before you spend the kwon.

Personally I'd never take a used helmet. My head and brains are worth much more than saving a few bucks (despite what my wife says...) Also, I'd rather avoid other people's stinky sweat. If that doesn't bother you, I've got a jock strap I'll sell to you for $0.50. It's clean and only worn one time. ...it's a size XXL as well.

Well, i was going to suggest the overnight zip tie method, but you tried that. The critical part is ensure all the lines are clear of bubbles. I assume you were watching the lines as you were bleeding the lines? And I further assume kept flushing until all the bubbles were gone? And finally assume as you filled the brake reservoir, you made sure it never went empty while you bled the brakes (i.e. kept it topped off as the reservoir was getting drained? If so, you should be fine. I don't think the steel lines give you better feel right off the bat. They are to prevent expansion unlike the OEM rubber hose lines. Even then So you'd notice it more under constant hard braking (i.e. at the track or very spirited rides). With OEM lines, there could be a tendency that the lines would expand and you'd feel more "sponginess". Steel lines would prevent that expansion, therefore the sponginess. When in doubt, bleed the brakes again. It's better to wast a $5 bottle of fluid than lose your brakes. I'm sure more tech literate people will correct me on anything I've posted.

Great meeting everyone! Thanks Al.Z for leadin the way! Some nice roads we hit!

A little late start but I'll make it up on the slab.

I'm an absolutely, positively, solid "maybe" Honey Do list has gotten longer as the weather warms, so I'll play this by ear. but the route looks fun and a nice 3 hour ride could be in the cards. Subscribed.

are you asking if you should have the coolant problems be pointed out to the adjuster/MC shop for the repair quote? I guess it depends on how attached you are to the bike. If you don't ever plan to sell it, then get it fixed or if totaled, buy it back and fix it as you can. If you are not attached, then include it. If its repairable, then you got new parts and off you go. If it is totaled, then you just have to worry about if the check is enough for you to buy a comparable bike if you don't have additional funds to add to it. You could just talked to the dealership and tell them if it becomes too high and close to totaled, I'd ask them to leave that off. I dunno if they'd do that though as I assume they'd have to warranty their work to the insurance company.

Oh man, that route travels like a block away from my house. I'm a maybe, but will have to see about my honey-do-list.

What a great ride for the season opener!! Man is my ASS sore. A 300+ ride to start with was probably not the nest thing to do, but I wouldn't do anything different. I just need a Doctor! Definitely a few hairy corners. Both of you guys are fast and smooth. I really need to work on that and get my confidence up. But overall the day was Triumphant for sure! Another great thing was the mesmerizing symphony our steeds made. 2 crossplane R1's and a 3 banging Brit Hailwood, thanks again for leading the charge! I'll make sure to join as many rides as I can.

looks like fog is clearing up near me, but I'm sure the back roads are still foggy. I'm going to do my pre ride check and headin out soon

I knocked my cat off the ledge...with a meat hammer I fell and hit my head...with a meat hammer My wife got pissed at me and hit me in the head...with a meat hammer My "friend" lost his virginity...with a meat hammer Say...jbot is spot on!

Hailwood, I'm in...unless my wife's alter ego shows up in the morning...then I'm out...but for now am in... Why choose only one day Pauly? It's 70 degrees in March! Mother Nature is hitting you over the head and demanding you ride both days! besides, it's supposed to rain on Sunday. Al Z, I'm no spring chicken either...my good asian genetics just makes me look like I'm 10 years younger. I'll be taking her easy anyways. First real ride for me on a new bike so I'll be more conservative that Santorum.