RHill

anyone tried one? only thing I care is that it is compatible with the transmitters that are being used and I can scroll through the times from the previous session and maybe throw them into an excel table. I have found one review that is concerning about compatibility with new versions of the XT transmitters. I'm not sure if it makes sense though, are the old XT timers non-compatible with the new transmitters? http://tracktalk.nesba.com/archive/index.php/t-22459.html most info I have found http://www.sumomoto.com/bestlap.htmv I know the best option is to go with the real deal, just interested in alternatives before dropping >$100 on something.

Wonder if the knock off xt timers on eBay work. Reminds me of RC racing, amb transponders are insanely priced cause the have the market cornered. I'm surprised the timers are so pricey.

Maybe I should just say f it and get a timer, was thinking abt getting an app for my phone "trackmaster", but I'm doubting how accurate it is.

Lap timer is a definite purchase this winter....I'm trying to lie to myself; spreading out purchases, so i can think this is cheaper than it really is.

So what is a good time for intermediate? ~1:10-20? Not that it matters, can't track my time.

Can't speak from experience, but I haven't seen a video where someone takes the turn without leaving off, but most of the time they don't use up the entire width of the track on exit.

Funny, I was about to post about this in another thread. Did a track day on the 1st and haven't put my bike back to the street, its killing me. Worst thing is, wont have it out to another track day till the 22nd. I see a dedicated track bike in my future.

^ hope so, either that or someone pulled into Nelson saying "who is this bastard novice pulling a trailer with his piece of shit saturn taking up one of our spots!"

dont feel bad, my "new" bike is going to beave....old bike is in rubbermaid bins and slowly being parted out anyone have any tips for PIRC? been checking out the track map and some youtube videos of the track....found this, looks oddly familiar looks like some major braking for turns 1 and 10. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxTtsCT3k5o

Little bit worried about closing speeds with other riders during the first session as I'm figuring out the track, but as long as I stay steady and predictable it should be fine. If I get a tow from someone it should help out immensely getting up to a pace where I won't be interfering. Novice was great, but after the first couple sessions I felt like there was a separation in the group....I was pushing the instructors to go faster and the other riders could have learned more from closer contact to better observe/follow lines and corner speeds.

Back protector came in today(and it fits under the suit), switching the bike over to distilled water+wetter, and the Q2's are going on. Thinking about signing up for intermediate....

well if your comfortable riding that way, then good. I gave my explanation in post #1 and #9: the bike feels more stable when my leg is planted, and hit huts my calf to strecth my leg to reach that postion.

You are late.....I could have used the tire gauge too...can't find my old digi and the analog ones seem to vary the reading based on how quickly depress them.

how the hell did you come up with using your thigh to hold 100% of your body weight, that doesn't even make sense based on the slope of the tank where your thigh touches. The load is distributed between the feet, butt, thigh, elbow, hands and where ever else your body happens to touch the bike. No matter how much anyone wants to say differently, those are the points of contact with the bike so they are all going to have some type of load on them. You can distribute it however you want. No one said the knee had to be in the tank to create stability. You have leverage backward, using the knee would require MORE force than using the inner thigh, just like he is doing in the picture. You are only applying pressure to keep your body stable, not to support a huge % of your body weight...your body weight will be driven down through the the plane of the bike for the most part, supported by the seat, pegs and some weight on the bars. My leg is in a better position for grip on the side of the tank if I stretch it out; put your foot in your boot, sit down, lift your leg off the ground and extend your toe. It has nothing to do with loading, the physics of the bike going around the turn or anything else....the boot resists the motion of extending your toe. Add some weight onto it(just like you do by putting your foot on the peg) and it will become even worse. It sounds like you guys just want something to argue about.

Would love to, but too much going on at work to get off 17th or 18th

Damn coupons, feel like I just spent $60 on shit I didnt even need Red Line WaterWetter Turtlewax Zip Wax Car Wash and Wax (64 fl. oz.) Autocraft Chenille Wash Mitt Fram Motorcycle Oil Filter x2 Rain X Glass Treatment (16 oz.) Peak –20°F Windshield Washer Fluid (1 Gallon) Valvoline DOT 3 and 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid (12 oz.) Permatex Medium-Strength Threadlocker (Blue) (big bottle, no more running out) Performance Tools 30-Piece Mini Fuse Set Lexol Leather Cleaner Spray (16.9 fl. oz.) Mechanix Wear FastFit Glove Black XL 11

got jumpers, lots of mini mags and LED lights, added brake fluid cause mines old, power steering fluid and transmission fluid ive got, assorted snaps??, wiper blades are new and will probably outlast the car.

ooooooh I like the way this guy thinks wonder if they would give me shit

thanks for reminding me, I had rain x and windshield washer fluid in my cart before it screwed up and forgot to re-add them. They have pads for the front of the bike, but never heard of Ferodo America before.

^ that would mean I'd need to buy tire warmers and new tires too....and I've got a set of new Q2's that are in my living room at the moment I'm pissed they fucked me on the oil....was going to hit the $100 mark with oil for the bike and car

I've got a $50 off $100 coupon for advance with $32 in my shopping cart....wtf else should I buy? It doesn't apply to oil or else I wouldnt be asking so far I have water wetter, filter for bike and car, car wash soap and a mit. help! lol

I just want to get it the best I can for the moment. Spring rates are probably way too light for me.

Thought it was measuring unloaded, static and loaded lengths and adjusting to be at a certain % of the stroke length. Pretty sure my pre load is light and compression is tight to compensate. Messed with rebound at Nelson, felt too springy after the kink.

Anyone mind giving me a hand setting sag? Just need someone to help reading a tape measure while my on the bike.

Trackday!!!! Might swing by Sunday to be a pit bitch.