99FLHRCI

I agree from what little I know and the research I have done. I talked more to a guy at work today who knows a lot more then I do. He said depending on the cams he could see maybe mid 90's but that is probably on the high end. I don't know what it makes but, I don't need anymore then it has for a first bike. I am already pleasantly surprised I was told I was purchasing an 88 CI and it is a 95 CI. I would love to confirm this and figure out the cam profiles. I am hoping for a dyno day soon so i can get a hard number on paper.

I just purchased my first bike. I got a 1999 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic. I am learning to ride and work on/maintain a bike. I am also trying to find out what all has been done to this bike. So far I have heard a lot of different things. I was told by the dealer it was an 88 CI motor with a complete rebuild and was making about 115hp. Then I talked to Roeder (the shop that supposedly did the work) and they said it is a 95 CI with head work, cams and a flowed throttle body with no bottom end work. It has quite a few toys on it, it sounds good and rides nice so I am happy.

Went and took my test today. Passed my Pre-Trip but failed my Backing. I will be going back next week to do that again and my Driving.

DO NOT DO THIS! Fictitious tags (M4) are a bigger penalty then no tags (Minor Misdemeaner).

Exactly what is done. Exactly how you do it. (Except KY may not notarize titles. I know MI doesn't. The OH BMV goes by the procedure of the state it was purchased in. I bought one in MI, brought in an un-notarized title and walked out with a title and plates.)

+1 The permit and the written tests are easy. I got my permit about 5 months ago. The problem is if you don't have access to a truck it is very hard to learn the pre-trip inspection and the skills test. You have to be able to alley dock (90 degree turn into a 40 x 12 box), parallel park, straight line backing and offset backing. There are also a lot of automatic failures (shifting across a railroad crossing, not doing a complete air brake test, etc). the best place to start is CDL Manual. After that, see if you can get access to a truck/trailer. For a Class A make sure it is an air brake vehicle with a manual and fifth wheel. There is a new law going in effect. If you use an automatic, you have an automatic only restriction on your license. If you use a pintle hook, you get a restriction. If you use a hydraulic brake vehicle, you get a restriction.

They have a Manual Shut Down in the center console. There is also a spot they recommend cutting in the rear should you not be able to get to the MSD. There is also high strength steel that you probably can't cut through with regular extraction tools. Something like Volt PDF is ideal. However, to have one of those for every vehicle with model year changes and redesigns is very hard.

Honestly, I can and I have voluntarily. The only things that power gives me are conveniences. I can do my laundry at the laundry mat (or if you count that as power I can wash them old school in a tub which I have done). I can shop for daily needed food and use more non-perishables. I can go to bed when the sun goes down and use wind up clocks for alarms. I can shower in cold water. You would be amazed at what you can do when you have to to survive. You would also be amazed at the people that you know who have had to live through these and many worse hardships and don't advertise it. It is nothing special to overcome and nothing to brag about.

That $40 doesn't get your power back quicker or keep it working in the event of a future situation. That is the point. Charge me to bury the lines... Thank you the situation is better. It is not as likely that a tractor is going to dig through power lines for a million people. It is likely a storm is going sweep across a large area knocking out power to many people. I am also not mad about paying for power. I am however mad that a company that mad $1.9 billion last year an increase of $700 million over the year before when America is going through a "depression" many people are making less or jobless altogether and you have the gonads to ask me to pay your $29 million bill to clean up after a storm. The city didn't ask me for money to pay the workers to clean up trees that were across yards and all the extra yard waste. The police and fire departments didn't ask me for more money because the increased calls and manpower to block roads with downed trees, power lines, extra accidents etc. Why in the hell should a FOR PROFIT organization ask me for more money? Suck it up and fix it. Maybe this year you will only increase profits by $671 million...sounds like a terrible year!

You can live without power you just don't feel like it. What if gas stations raised gas by $0.25 a gallon for a year because they got new tanks? I am sure you don't feel like walking. Natural gas up by $0.15 a cubic foot for the year? Bet you don't feel like chopping wood and starting a fire. City got new trash trucks, collection will be up by $10 for the next year. See you at the dump. Got a new sewer plant it will cost you $0.10 extra per flush this year because you don't feel like pooping in an outhouse.

Really?! That 10 bucks (btw $29 million across 749,000 customers is almost $40) isn't to prevent this from happening in the future. It happened in 2004, again in 2008, again in 2012, expect it again sometime around 2016...maybe sooner. $25 million in 2008, $27 million in 2008, let's say $29 million in 2012 due to inflation and to continue the mathmatical trend... maybe $31 million in 2016? If it was $10 a month to do like many foreign countries and bury cables to prevent future events, I would be okay with it, not happy but okay. They made $1.9 billion last year, $700 million more than in 2010 and they can't cough up $29 million as part of the cost of duing business? Does NTR say "Sorry we repaved the track this year can we charge you an extra $5?" Does Meijer say "Hey did you notice our new freezers? By the way that Digorno Pizza will cast you $3 extra this year." NO! and we wouldn't accept it if they did!

It is not true for all wires on all models. We commonly use a program for the smart phone called "Extricate". It labels the location of high voltage wires, seat belt pretensioners, safety restraint system components and danger points (such as pressurized cylinders for hoods and hatches).

I have a set out in Marysville.

600 ft lb of torque below 3000 rpm on 6-7 psi boost out of a 355 8:1 motor. Pretty cool just because it is different.

I would not be comfortable answering that as I don't know for sure. I often call or stop the local PD and ask questions regarding the legality of things and they are always more then happy to help.

Best non-lethal in home weapon? A good, big dog. Outside of that, look into the legality of tasers and mace guns. I was told that anything with a handle and trigger was considered a firearm in Columbus. (I called asking about the legality of archery within city limits. I was told bow yes crossbow no.)

The city in Marysville came through and cut down all of the Ash trees on the easements as a precautionary measure. They didn't have the bug yet and we still lost 3 trees. it sucked. Hopefully it is the same story for you and you don't need to get rid of the ones on your property.

Take a rubber mallet and hit the convertor. If it rattles then it needs replaced to stop the rattling. Personally I would deal with it till it caused a problem and tripped a light. I understand that some people would get annoyed with the noise and replace it though.

It may also not hurt to have someone from the board with a scan tool take a quick look at it. It may be a bad or lazy o2 sensor. I would hope it was diagnosed right but, a second opinion never hurts. I rarely have ever had a bad catalytic convertor come in for failure/clogging but have replaced o2 sensors by the dozen. If you are in the Marysville area I would be happy to look at it.

I disagree. At 75.86 degrees R134a will be at a static pressure of 80 psi. Today was easily 75 degrees and with the system off would have read 80+ psi. R134a pressure to temperature chart That being said, the correct way is to find the leak, repair it, vacuum the system and recharge. Not saying I have never used the can. I would guess that the car was not started when you tried to do this. Read the can fully but, I believe it says engine running, a/c on high and can upside down. It has been awhile since I used the cans though so I may be wrong. If you live near Marysville, I have a leak checker (dye and/or a sniffer), a vacuum machine and gauges to charge it. PM me if you want some help.

http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/06/27/saudi-drifter-sentenced-to-death-by-beheading/?intcmp=obinsite

Unsafe equipment. They actually have a list of items that fall under that. under 2/32" of tread, all lights, broken lenses/glass, loose or missing body panels, etc.

Because their is a post catalytic convertor oxygen sensor that sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU then compares the post catalytic signal to the pre catalytic signal to ensure that the catalytic convertor is doing it's job and cleaning the exhaust. As a default if the catalytic convertor is not functioning properly, the car leans itself out to limit the amount of hydrocarbons in the exhaust. So if you get it tuned, you can get the post catalytic sensors "shut off". The ECU no longer looks for this signal or changes the fuel mixture.

We did Schmidts in German town. They have 2 banquet halls and a private bar upstairs. They served up a great buffet and mini cream puffs and a german chocolate cake with 2 drinks per person (30 people) for under $3k. I twas great food, great beer and amazing desserts.