Cordell

Hard choice.

 

The firebird was my first love. Had/have alot of fun in that car, as well as met alot of great people because of it.

 

The GTO is just an amazing car to drive. Rides pretty nice, handles well enough to have fun on some back roads, the seats are amazing and best of all, ls powa lol

 

Car i hate the most is probably scotts camaro. I used to be one of those guys that said "i dont need no LS!", Then scott made me trade him cars for one pass out at trails and i realized the error of my ways. Hence why i spent 13k on another car that spends most of its time in the garage

 

You're blaming me? Lol. Oh well you're better off.

Best of luck to you man and I would love to take a look at it when you are done!

 

I think the cheapest aluminum setup is the 98-02 f-bodies followed by the LS2 in Pontiac G8 and SAAB 9-7x then the 05-07 corvettes. The 97-04 vette ls1 is also a good one but not many available when I looked.

 

I bought a salvage title Silverado with the 6.0 and parted the rest out for my gremlin engine but it has an iron block.

 

 

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I really don't think your typical automotive recycler is getting Corvettes, Camaros, and GTOs. I see those engines all the time from places like Cleveland Power and Performance, or Hawks Motorsports, because they specialize in those cars, so I'm sure they buy all that they can get their hands on.

 

BTW, I assume you meant LS2 GTO, the G8 GT only got the 6.0 L76 (has AFM) and the G8 GXP got an LS3. ....and this is why identifying these engines is such a PITA.

I think either would be fun, but I'm leaning towards the 6266 and going some rounds. Of course I've never done a half mile and I'd likely get hooked if I did it, so in short I guess I'm no help.

The majority of trucks got iron blocks, it wasn't until the use of active fuel management that a lot of the half tons got an aluminum block. Still many had iron, unfortunately it just isn't very simple unless you are physically looking at it or using RPO codes (and there are a lot of RPOs). Only engines that came out of Camaros, Corvettes, GTOs, SSRs, were guaranteed to be aluminum.

Meh.

I know they've put LT1s in them, so putting an LS1 in should be pretty easy. The engines are fairly close and the aftermarket has a gazillion adaptors for putting LS engines where older small blocks sit (aka LT1). Between some of the tuning software and some time with the harness wiring it shouldn't really cost any extra. I like the plan so far and I look forward to seeign this come together.

First off I am not a parts guy, I just work on cars. However I want to share some things about GM specific parts.

 

GM has a few different lines of parts depending on what you're talking about. Things like brakes, filters, batteries usually have a cheap line (ie ACDelco silver) and you can almost always buy these parts a ton cheaper from the internet, RockAuto for example has all of this stuff and is always cheaper then my employee cost. Dealerships pretty much only stock the cheaper ACDelco parts for "consumables" like these, the actual OE GM parts that I would have to use if it was warranty usually have to be ordered.

 

Now let's talk about actual GM parts, like trim, switches, engine parts, ect. These often come in an ACDelco box and are also available on the internet in many places. GM Parts Direct, Scoggin Dickey, and others, usually a very big top teir GM dealership offer up these parts to your average person much cheaper then even the local dealerships cost. The only expection locally might be Coughlin Marysville because they sell all of GM parts to Jeg's, however I've met a few techs who worked there and it was cheaper to buy from Jeg's then their own parts department even though the parts passed through it. It's stupid I know, but GM and their pricing matrixes and teired dealerships means that nobody can sell under certain places without losing money.

 

I have worked for 4 GM dealerships and every one was at the bottom of GM pricing structure. I have always found it cheaper to buy things online then with my employee discount. Also with the exception of a few the parts guys around Columbus aren't much better then you'd get at Autozone. It's a constant hassle getting the correct parts in a timely fashion.

 

If you think I moan and groan when you ask me about this crap, this is why. I don't even do it for myself, rarely for my friends, and if we've never met (despite you being rude asking someone you don't even know to do you a favor) then you can go piss up a rope. Have a nice day. Any further PMs (as I get them frequently) will be ignored I'm tired of explaining this.

This has been done many times on F-bodies, and in that situation the Borla bullet resonator seems to work well.

 

I say try it, I but it's at least much closer to what you're looking for. Worst case you just weld it back together.

I thought the bugeye had some of the weakest drivelines in Subaru's performance cars?

 

Out of those choices I vote MR2.

 

I don't care who you are, what your political thoughts are, whether or not you believe in God, Buddha, no deity, or any other deity, your age, gender, whether you like Christmas or not, whether you celebrate one day or eight, whether you like me or not, whether you drive a killer ride or ride a killer bike, whether or not you think Bitcoins are a good investment, which college football team you cheer on, or whether or not your car has a salvage title or took two years to build. I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Kwanzaa, Joyful Winter Solstice, or relaxing day off doing nothing. I hope you all have a safe, fun, peaceful day tomorrow doing whatever it is you do

 

Most PC post on CR. Allow me to make one more fitting to this site.

 

Merry Fuckin Christmas, and if you celebrate anything else then fuck you. Unless you're a friend of mine then do whatever you want, lol.

Just the spark plugs? or are the coil towers rusted? Rusted coil towers are pretty common. Just replace all the effected components.

Been through this a couple times, most likely the coils. I have a pontiac with the 3800 in it, if you like I could stop by this weekend and you could throw my coils on to test.

 

Yeah this most likely. Spray some water on the engine while it's running and see if anything starts arcing.

 

A scan tool that'll show which cylinder(s) is misfiring (live data) would give you a big step toward where to look.

Omg, comparing Grant to Imstock2 is fucking hilarious on so many levels.

Are you sure you're not talking about this one which is literally their 3/8 with a 1/2" anvil.

 

https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2755b-20-fuel-m18-18v-cordless-lithium-ion-1-2-in--compact-impact-wrench-with-friction-ring--bare-tool-/miln2755b-20,default,pd.html

 

And not this one which the OP is talking about?

 

https://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwaukee-2861-20-m18-fuel-1-2-in--mid-torque-impact-wrench-with-friction-ring--bare-tool-/miln2861-20,default,pd.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=731&zmap=miln2861-20&gclid=CjwKCAiAjuPRBRBxEiwAeQ2QPhbxA3k4-xqUgo9ypdk3sPHkK8PZDNNFU0kZ1a2mtbSBl9g4u3bA9BoCrRUQAvD_BwE

 

I have not used the Milwaukee mid torque but will probably buy one come race season, I have used my friends dewalt stuff and their 20v maxx 3/8 will pull a lug nut that is correctly torqued to 100ish off with a little struggle. Their big dog 20v one will break your wrist. Pull 46mm axle nuts off no problem.

 

Eh maybe, didn't realize they have that many different tools. I personally have Snap-on's stuff, it's not the best but far from the worst.

 

I still stick with my buy the bigger stuff opinion. You can't make it bigger later but you can take it easy on the trigger for smaller stuff. The only time I use 1/2 drive tools is for big stubborn parts anyway.

Those sensors go bad in the bumper all the time, I've also seen the module corrode that sits behind the bumper. Need dealership level scan tool, should be able to figure it out quick enough.

I have the m12 1/4" impact wrench which I love. But looking to add and many want to be able to break lug nuts and axle nuts.

 

So mid torque isn't up to it?

 

No. I personally think it's a 3/8 gun with a 1/2 anvil. Would not want, buy a 3/8 in that size (because that's all it's good for) and buy the big 1/2.

Ask Wagner how he like his "mid torque" that won't take off his wheels. Fuck that, go big or go home.

Be Cordell: get on people for joking with Grant in his thread, joke ABOUT Grant in another FS thread.

 

 

When Grant makes a serious for sale thread, and Miller makes a bullshit for sale thread with a dumb video

 

Be Otis Nice and not see the difference

Partial trade for the best C5 in Columbus?

 

I know you're holding out for a Supra and all...

This sounds silly, but I don't like putting "H8" on any license plate. Someone might think something about what "SWRLS" and get all pissed off.

 

As a man where his wife's Odyssey was keyed for having a "Women For Mitt" sticker on it, I'm against ANY message that alienates part of society.

 

Seriously thinking about getting something along the lines of "H8 ME" or "H82BU" just because. Not like I park anywhere someone will do anything, I haven't put vanity plates on my daily up until now because I have a habit of pissing people off with my driving anyway, so it's not like I need to stand out anyway. Probably put it on the Vette.

I really like my Camaro, bought it before I even worked on cars, actually my wife bought it for me when we were first married. Learned a ton about modding along the way. I've had it 14 years now so I doubt it'll ever leave.

 

I really miss the GMC Sonoma I had in high school, met my wife driving it and had many good times cruising around in it. Of course I like my Corvette and get reminded how fun it is every time I drive it.

on old carbed bikes and cars, I just misted water from a spray bottle into the running engine to clean the carbon. Always worked. It's an old timers trick but it works 100% - if you don't believe me, look at the cylinders in any engine that had a head gasket leak where antifreeze got in the cylinder - clean as a whistle. The water literally steams the carbon off.

 

This is why I say that just about anything will clean when sucked through a vacuum line.

 

I have seen the BG products first hand and I know they work well, but seeing the 44k make an old carburetor work better and comparing it to new fuel injection is two different things.

 

On a side note BG's chain lube is fucking fantastic, it's what we used kart racing for all those years, never had a chain failure, and it actually reduced rotational drag on the rear axle (not a lot, but every little bit is important in racing).

"H8 SWRL"

I beleive in using something (damn near anything made for it will work fine) through a vacuum line to remove carbon, and general combustion residue from the intake ports and valves.

 

As for dumping something in the tank so it get diluted and supposedly cleans injectors, I'm pretty skeptical. I put the Royal Purple in the toys with my last fill up before winter, but it's also a stabilizer. Much better to simply run quality fuel from a known quality gas station. Google "Top Teir fuel" that's all you really need.

I agree with those that just run it to avoid the hassle. There are holes under the one on the Camaro (where dumbasses riveted the plate bracket through the grill), and I didn't get the filler panel with the Vette so I just put the plate on. The other cars don't look like anything special so it really isn't worth it.