Cordell

I figured that's the route we'll have to go, just thought I'd ask just in case CR knew of something.

I can't imagine that turning out any other way. You can't even siphon gas out of a car that way.

What I mean is, cars all depriciate, dealerships all make money (usually a good bit on used cars), and except for the times someone scores 0% interest the bank gets to make money of of you too. So when someone says they got a great deal it's just funny to me. It's like saying I got a great deal on my taxes this year, compared to what? It's just silly to me.

Thats just fucking fantastic, do want!

These type of comments always crack me up. I guess it depends on your definition of a good deal, but buying a car is pretty much always a losing proposition in my opinion it's never a good deal. Otherwise you're a braver man then me, I can't stand driving minivans. Even if the wife drives it and I rarely even sit in it there's still that pile of ugly in my driveway. Enjoy your new Honda!

Like the title says, my Dad and I are rebuilding a 3100 for his 98 Buick Century. Machine shop called and informed us that the cam journals are fucked, it basically spun the bearings and broke the cam. Anyway, looking for a deal on a block or usable core. He already bought everything to rebuild so we aren't really looking for a good running used engine at this point (even though I wanted a used engine to begin with).

I would want the block measured to make sure things are in spec, and honed. I am not into backyard cheap rebuilds, so I always involve a machine shop. While it is possible to measure yourself, it is simply not cost effective to own all the right tools to do it once in a while.

Well this too. By the time you could pay my labor to tear it down, pay the machine shop, pay me to put the engine together and reinstall it isn't very cost effective. My first post was really lacking in the reason why.

Best of luck finding a place worth spending your money, once you get into machine work (I wouldn't rebuild an engine that a machinist hasn't at least looked at and signed off on) you start involving at least two shops. Getting that kind of work done is hard when just about everyone would quote you a reman engine or used because a rebuild is really a lost art. Please let me know if you find a shop willing to do it properly and that does a good job, I doubt short of a race shop that there isn't much of anything out there to meet your needs.

Pretty much, and GM typically pays the claims without much question unless you are just being stupid. Really sounds like a poorly run shop, with poor management that isn't pushing their techs to be productive. Makes me wonder what their GM training and CSI looks like in that shop, I bet their scores are horrible and the techs aren't trained.

I watch movies and drink lots of whiskey. I also make it to the indoor karts a few times, this year I plan on adding some trips to the shooting range. I'll hopefully get up to the hangout some more then last year, I take you up to Doc's if and when that happens.

Call GM customer care, tell them how unsatisfied you are and can you have this warranty work performed at a Chevy dealership because you know a quality tech there that has done good work for you on other cars. I would have no issue fixing any of that under warranty. Why any tech wouldn't replace any of those parts is retarded, GM doesn't pay us to look and not do anything.

So what I want to know is, who out there has experience doing a top feed injector swap? Looks like a good option when going to E85. What all is involved in that? And is the top feed conversion, bigger injectors, and larger pump all that is needed to make 400 wheel on corn.

Yeah that truck got dangerous too. The cab mounts were all but gone, the cab would shift going around corners. Sad part is that frame was solid. I put my hand through the frame on the current one today, not to mention it's a fire hazard. Oh well can't expect cheap stuff to last very long.

The thing about the Volt is that they just don't sell. We have them sitting around forever, they have always sold under MSRP. I hadn't looked at used ones until today, but there are still a handfull of 2014 new ones sitting around. I guess making so easy to buy new the used value must really suffer. It's a shame because they are a decent car without many major issues that I'm aware of. Being trained on the Volt I still don't work on many at all. I'm not going to get another car for at least a few months, but this has jumped way up my list of considerations. When I have driven them they seem to be 30+ miles on a charge, which isn't a lot, but it would get me to work and almost back home. The newer ones have a hold feature to run the engine so it is flexible. I wouldn't want one to run in electric all the time anyway, I would want to cycle the engine some anyway to keep the gas freash, and things moving.

Ls1 swap, or a really big turbo.

I like the Volt, but I'm not willing to pay for one. It gets a little more affordable and I'll have one. I hope they ard our future, save the gas for the toys.

My wife and I have decided that the S10 needs junked and taken off the road for everyone's safety. She works from home so we'll just share her car for awhile, and give us some more time to figure things out.

The thought has crossed my mind, although I'm not thrilled with it.

Yeah, I know thats the right answer. I sure wouldn't tell a customer to fix it, because it isn't safe and it's not worth finding out when it'll break. It just sucks, I don't want to deal with it. Eventually I will just lease my daily and get rid of it outside of warranty, the last thing I want to do is do more work after work. I just don't want to give up my extra money to make payments right now.

I am having a bad day, and to further annoy me my truck has decided to blow a brake line. My first reaction was to pull it in the shop and patch it up, but I am greeted by gas dripping out of the tank, a rust hole through the frame, and generally poor condition. I've gotten a few years out of this truck, but I debating if I even want to fix it. It'll need at a minimum, gas tank, gas lines, brake lines, and all the front end parts to make it somewhat safe, but it does have some structural rust that is in the middle of the frame. It's a 95 S10 with 250k, am I stupid for even considering fixing anything? I know that I'd tell a customer to get a new car, but like most customers I don't want to pay for a car. Obviously it wouldn't cost me anything other then time and parts. Sorry to rant just annoyed.

I appreciate all the good input. Having shot a few M&Ps and Springfields I know I like that type of gun, striker fire, easy to use, so I've been leaning that way. I think I need to try a couple Glocks before I buy. Joe you have been very helpful, and would love to shoot with you some more, maybe we can work out something for some one on one training. I want to get good at it, not just sufficient. Also, what is a realistic training schedule? I shot almost 400 rounds yesterday and I was pretty tired, but kept working at keeping my fundamentals together. That was all 22 and I tried the other guns in addition.

I shot Dad's fullsize M&P 40 this morning I really liked the feel of the gun, so a similar 9mm is on my short list, I just don't want to miss anything hence why I made this thread. However if any of my friends want to take me shooting I'll gladly go.

Will have to do that.

Don't know much about Glock. Is their model numbers supposed to mean something? Anyway the 19 and 43 look interesting, something to consider. Why do I keep hearing about Kahr? I had never even heard of them until recently, makes me uneasy buying a brand I've never even heard of.