Cordell

Pull up the underhood fuseblock and make sure there isn't rodent damage, they love that spot. Likely needs one of the hubs,and one of the front impact sensors. That stuff is common, 4wd could be a switch or an encoder motor if it isn't wiring. Thats the stuff that seems most typical. Otherwise you should get it scanned.

I'm not going to disagree, but whatever you autocross shouldn't be certain things like a car set up for drag racing or making way too much power for the platform. While there are smaller clubs and such that might let you run a truck I wouldn't suggest that. Something that will teach you good habits, a car in good condition mechanically, but most important to me is a car that you will enjoy outside of autocross. Chances are autocross will be fun, but not something you will take very seriously, so get a car you will enjoy driving otherwise. This was were I screwed up buying a Mazdaspeed, I hated that car, but I loved my 91 Miata. So make sure you like whatever it is.

Miata issues are pretty obvious, rust, neglect, fucked up top, ricer mods. In mid-91 they went to a more durable long nose crank shaft, but it wouldn't keep me from buying a good early car. The cars are relatively the same underneath from 90 to 04 and parts are cheap because they rarely break. When I wanted to do the same thing a few years ago the Miata is hard to beat. It's so good out of the box, easy to work on, and reliable. Not to mention they are fun and forgiving cars.

Moved out of the oven section so he can talk to you guys.

A little more info, mabe a few pics of your ride. It's not as simple as making two posts.

You would just need a different way to inject the nitrous, like a nozzle in your intake tube, and correct jetting. The other things like a way to control timing and any accessory controllers for WOT or a window switch wouldn't come with most nitrous kits anyway. Price seems a little high, used nitrous stuff doesn't sell very well, so you may need to consider taking less if you want it gone.

If I didn't have the equipment at work to do my own tires and alignments I'd definitly go see Derek.

Yup will be some of us at QS&L, you're just going to have to join Facebook Doc.

I know one of the Mazda service writers over at Byers Mazda/Subaru if nobody can help you out better then that, at least he may be able to put you in contact with someone worth a damn. Glad to see you coming back, it's been a while.

I'm at Lash, Benner went back to Chesrown. He didn't like us.:dumb:

Oh look a wild Benner appears.

Are we to assume these fit a Mustang? A few more details would help your sale bud, just saying.

idk a couple small pieces iirc so not really

I have one, basic autometer thing I got used. Don't remember the style but it works, idk $20?

Glad you found some, we didn't have them.

Interesting, 12s for $1200 would be cool.

It's likely shorted to power somewhere, the temp switch can make it run after the car is shut off but the PCM should limit the time it does run so I doubt it's an ECT switch. If you pull out the relay does it stop? Depending on what that does you'll know which part of the circuit to look at. Could be the PCM shorted causing the relay to always be on, could be alot of things. Need to narrow it down.

I will have to check monday but I doubt we have them. I will check to be sure though.

Okay, so now input dumb rich soccer mom hitting the "invisible speed bump" who doesn't know how to drive, panics and drives up over some kid walking along the road at night (when he shouldn't be out either) and kills him. "OMFG!!! What a fucking tragedy, remove all speed bumps every where." Is what they'll say then, but some poor bastards tearing up their cars on surprise speed bumps is cool? Yeah becomes a double edge sword very quickly, they should at least be marked.

Good weather and I'll be there. Bad weather and who knows what I'll be doing.

Lame, Pontiacfreak should be better. At least your GTO won't eat it's connecting rods at 350 wheel. Sounds like that guy has done about all that is safe for a stockish MS3. Like others have said around 300 wheel.

Size of the battery has nothing to do with what size wire you need, it's all about how big of a load will be on the other end of that wire. I am not an engineer nor do I want to help you calculate the proper size, but I would not skimp here. Bigger is better in this situation. Even if the wire is "just big enough" running a larger wire helps keep voltage drop to a minimum and will just make everthing electrical on the car work better, ie more reliable and consistant.

Some shit gets reported, a lot doesn't. A lot of people have an accident and replace the car after it's fixed so I think Clay is the exception to the norm on that regard. Take the Miata I bought with a clean carfax, as I decided to sell it there was a major accident reported 2 months after I bought it because these things can take some time to show up on carfax. I inspected the car and it was repaired very well, I really wasn't sure why it had one of it's fenders replaced, and I figure it screwed up a wheel or two causing to be towed from the scene, and that would make it a major accident. Personally I think people should worry more about branded titles and having a qualified third party do a thorough inspection. The point to my post is this: used car inspections are just as important as ever. Trying to give people a warm fuzzy feeling just because they have a peice of paper saying it's a "good car" almost never tells the whole story of a car. Get a qualified technician who is familiar with the car you want to buy and worry more about the car then carfax.

I would love to come be friends and shoot guns, but I don't have any guns yet.

Not to say I won't go down with somebody, but I'm not going to be driving my cars around that many cops.